Your 
is full of it.
Installing AFR Heads.... Valve Covers?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 466
Likes: 0
From: Greenville NC
Installing AFR Heads.... Valve Covers?
The guy doing the install of my AFR heads is saying I need a set of
valve covers and the coil pack brakets- he said I need the center bolt valve covers to fit the AFR heads. Has anybody ever heard of this? I thought everything was supposed to bolt right up...
Randy
valve covers and the coil pack brakets- he said I need the center bolt valve covers to fit the AFR heads. Has anybody ever heard of this? I thought everything was supposed to bolt right up...
Randy
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 790
Likes: 7
From: Denton TX
Originally Posted by Rex99Coupe
I believe he is correct, earlier models were perimeter bolts.
Maybe AFR only makes their heads to fit the late model valve covers. I can't blame them, if it were me I would do the same thing. Besides one school of though says the center bolt units seal better anyway.
GM would not have changed to center bolts unless there was a good reason.... would they?
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 7,032
Likes: 2
From: Newburgh NY
Your mechanic probably knows this already if they have done these conversions before, but for your info, you also need a new PCV and hose setup. Get a late model PCV from your local NAPA or other auto parts store and pick up some 3/8" hose and a 3/8" y-connector all for a couple of bucks. Use the existing line to run from the PCV to the intake behind the throttle body as it currently does. Where the existing line splits, use the 3/8" hose and go to the y-connector. Split between the y-connector and the passenger side valve cover and the throttle body. Alternately you can just buy the correct setup from GM but this is cheap and works.
You'll also need 16 short 3/4 or 1" nut & bolts to attach the coils to the bracket. I use 1/4"x20 and drill the coil bracket holes to fit. Done this a number of times and they look ok and don't come loose.
You may also find that the air tube on the passenger side is in the way of the valve cover. I take a prybar and move it up and back out of the way. Do it slowly though as it can crack the weld at the exhaust. Also be careful when doing it that you don't hit the MAP, CAM timing, or Oil Pressure sensor behind the manifold. Ussually not a problem but check it.
ps: Your existing fuel rail covers probably won't snap in the way they use to but no big deal. The oil cap hold the passenger side in place and the fuel lines hold the driver side in place. You can snap the top in but ussually not the bottom. Don't sweat it.
You'll also need 16 short 3/4 or 1" nut & bolts to attach the coils to the bracket. I use 1/4"x20 and drill the coil bracket holes to fit. Done this a number of times and they look ok and don't come loose.
You may also find that the air tube on the passenger side is in the way of the valve cover. I take a prybar and move it up and back out of the way. Do it slowly though as it can crack the weld at the exhaust. Also be careful when doing it that you don't hit the MAP, CAM timing, or Oil Pressure sensor behind the manifold. Ussually not a problem but check it.
ps: Your existing fuel rail covers probably won't snap in the way they use to but no big deal. The oil cap hold the passenger side in place and the fuel lines hold the driver side in place. You can snap the top in but ussually not the bottom. Don't sweat it.
