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I am really impressed with the C5 build quality. I just finished my first Diff. oil change on my first Corvette. Easy to reach drain bolt and easy to reach fill bolt. I had just enough room on the fill to get the quart bottle and fill spout/hose at the right angle between the rear end and exhaust pipes. The Corvette guys even left me enough room to slide a torque wrench on the fill bolt without the dreaded swivel.
I just changed mine yesterday (RedLine) and was impressed at how easy it went. Once again the hardest part was lifting the car. Did you notice any metal in your fluid? I found the normal wear and tear and one small chunk about the size of a grain of salt . I am kinda worried but the car has always driven very smoothly and I have had no problems. I have an extended warranty so I am not real worried about it.
SGT. PYLE
I did notice that the drain plug was coated with tiny metal shavings. About 1/16 or so deep on the bottom of the bolt. I just figured that was normal. My car has just turned 47,000m and this is the first diff. oil change. I used the Mobil 1 Synthetic gear oil. It was raining last nite when I finished so I am getting ready to take off for a Sunday morning test drive.
SGT. PYLE
I did notice that the drain plug was coated with tiny metal shavings. About 1/16 or so deep on the bottom of the bolt. I just figured that was normal. My car has just turned 47,000m and this is the first diff. oil change. I used the Mobil 1 Synthetic gear oil. It was raining last nite when I finished so I am getting ready to take off for a Sunday morning test drive.
You did put in a Limited Slip Addative right. I used the Redline fluid and Redline say's you do have to use it with their fluid but I used a bottle anyway. Important: Do not operate the vehicle at wide open throttle for a minimum of 480 km (300 miles) after refilling the differential with lubricant and friction modifier. Scoring of the ring and pinion gears may result, leading to differential noise..
on my 2000 with 20000 mil had to pull diff cover because of leek
there was a lot of material on bottom of diff .wiped it out.put it back together and refilled .
Important: Do not operate the vehicle at wide open throttle for a minimum of 480 km (300 miles) after refilling the differential with lubricant and friction modifier. Scoring of the ring and pinion gears may result, leading to differential noise.[/B].
Why is that? When the old lube is drained, you'd still have a residual lube film on the parts, and complete coverage with new lube would be established right away.
I wouldn't think it would take more than a minute or two of operation to mix the new lube with the limited slip additive, so why the 300 mile recommendation?
[QUOTE=SGT. PYLE]You did put in a Limited Slip Addative right. I used the Redline fluid and Redline say's you do have to use it with their fluid but I used a bottle anyway.
With Redline rearend gearoil that contains the additive, DTE indicates that adding MORE anti-slip can be counterproductive. Please correct me if I'm wrong but I pretty much go on dte's opinion...........
Yes I did add the limited slip additive. I will keep that in mind about the 300 mile break-in for the new oil. I have been running her to red line almost every day lately. This will give me a reason to keep it under 4 grand. Well on to my next project, change the MN6 fluid. I think I have to use regular Dexron III because I read somewhere my 99 has paper blocking rings.
Important: Do not operate the vehicle at wide open throttle for a minimum of 480 km (300 miles) after refilling the differential with lubricant and friction modifier. Scoring of the ring and pinion gears may result, leading to differential noise..
Somebody, please, enlighten my sorry ****!
I still can't figure out why new diff. lube needs to be broken in if nothing else was changed in the differential.
Is it the LUBE that needs to break in?
Do I need to do the same thing every time I change my engine oil?
I haven't been doing this. Am I screwed?
I had never heard this before either. It sounds to me that if you are just replacing the fluid only that there should not be a break-in process. Somebody let me know if there is.
You do not need to break it in if you just changed the oil. Only if the diff is new.
No, an additional bottle of additive is not harmful in anyway.
I am not by any means a Corvette Tech but this is what I found wile doing a search on this subject. Check out this thread. http://www.zo6vette.com/forums/showt...erential+fluid
As far as why the 300 mile thing, Hell if I know!?!?!? I just like to be on the safe side. As far as adding the Limited Slip Addative to RedLine being counterproductive, that's like saying I just won too much money in the lottery ?? The more lube the better .
Well I'll be dipped!
According to that thread, it says "300 miles" in the manual, and it's confirmed by a "Z06 Master".
Kind of scary to think of new lubricant etching or removing a layer of burnishing from the gears. To remove burnishing, it would need to take off some metal, right?
Doesn't sound right. Think I'll run it by a GM engineer or a lube engineer.
Well I'll be dipped!
According to that thread, it says "300 miles" in the manual, and it's confirmed by a "Z06 Master".
Kind of scary to think of new lubricant etching or removing a layer of burnishing from the gears. To remove burnishing, it would need to take off some metal, right?
Doesn't sound right. Think I'll run it by a GM engineer or a lube engineer.
Be sure to give us a follow up report. Not that I am going to be running WOT any time soon. It make's sense on the initial fill from the factory but after 36k miles it seems you would not need to do this again. Anyone out there with a set of GM Service Manuals that can look it up for us? Would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by SGT. PYLE; Nov 13, 2005 at 04:02 PM.
Well I'll be dipped!
According to that thread, it says "300 miles" in the manual, and it's confirmed by a "Z06 Master".
Kind of scary to think of new lubricant etching or removing a layer of burnishing from the gears. To remove burnishing, it would need to take off some metal, right?
Doesn't sound right. Think I'll run it by a GM engineer or a lube engineer.
I'm calling on the 300 mile thing. I can't think of any reason this after oil break-in theory should hold water. I've changed mine a couple times and let her eat 700 rwhp right afterward w/o an issue.
And yes, too much of the anti-slip additive is a bad thing. The additive is a friction modifier used to keep the diff. from chattering/locking when turning. To much additive can cause the differential to loose its locking properties.
I'm calling on the 300 mile thing. I can't think of any reason this after oil break-in theory should hold water. I've changed mine a couple times and let her eat 700 rwhp right afterward w/o an issue.
And yes, too much of the anti-slip additive is a bad thing. The additive is a friction modifier used to keep the diff. from chattering/locking when turning. To much additive can cause the differential to loose its locking properties.
I agree on the 300 bs thing. Just doesnt make any sense.
And I dont think you will lose any locking with just 1 bottle added to your diff.
I agree on the 300 bs thing. Just doesnt make any sense.
And I dont think you will lose any locking with just 1 bottle added to your diff.
I have been driving arround for the last hour and no noise what so ever. I have been doing tight right and left turns, figure 8's and nothing. I think it is just fine. I guess we will find out.
I have been driving arround for the last hour and no noise what so ever. I have been doing tight right and left turns, figure 8's and nothing. I think it is just fine. I guess we will find out.
You WONT hear any noises, that's the point of adding the additive...It keeps the differential from chattering and grabbing while turning.
I agree that one extra container of modifier will not cause major damage, but I certainly wouldn't put extra in my car.