I have a 200 vert. I have 47k on the clock. I have had the car since 13k. It has always had a vibration in the stearing wheel when I apply the brakes. When I bought it I had the rotors "trued", still had the problem. I read the thread about the build-up of brake material on the rotors. Found it to be correct, several high speed stops cleaned the rotors and everything was OK for a day or so. I finally got fed up. Ordered a set of A/C Delco drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads from Fred Beans.(about $350.00 shipped). Installed them two weeks ago. Painted the hats with 1200 degree paint. (torch red vert).
I couldn't be happier! The car stops like it hit a brick wall... the ceramic pads leave very little dust on the rims... and the wheel is as smooth as a baby's butt ( no "shudder").
Problem solved! (Why did I wait so long??????).
ZOOOM

 

congrats on a job well done and another warped rotor myth put to bed.

 

let me get this straight.................

you "solved" you warped rotor problem by replacing the rotors?

 

Did Drilled & Slotted rotors and they work like a charm even with the old pads.

 

gota love ceramic pads because they leave very little dust

 

they won't last 47,000

 

I found that ceramic pads caused warping quicker than other types. Ceramics retain more heat, causing rotors to warp quicker. As for drilled/slotted rotors, they don't last as long as a plain faced rotor if you drive agressively.

 

I suspect your problem could have been solved by a set of rotors from Napa for $100.

Oh well, I'm sure the new rotors look nice.

 

Mayby I mis-under-stated the problem. The rotors and pads would give the feeling of warped rotors. In truth warped rotors VERRRRRRRRRRY rarely happen. What is the usual cause is the depositing of pad material on the disc. Next time you have a shuddering in the stearing wheel when you put the brakes on, try this: take the car out to some secluded back road. Stop 3/4 times from about 70 mph, almost to lock-up,---- BUT ONLY TO 10/15 MPH!!! Let the brakes cool off for three/four miles in between. The shudder problem will be gone.... for a while. If the rotors were truly warped they would never fix themselves... Rotors usually only need to be "turned" when they become grooved from dust or junk gouging the rotor from hard use.
My problem was that after "cleaning" them, the problem would come back in a few days. My thinking was that if I changed the mix of pad/rotor combination, the problem would go away.... It did...
As long as I was at it, I changed to better looking cross-drilled and slotted rotors. I changed the pads to ceramics. I painted the "hats" red with 1200 degree paint (to prevent the hats from rusting) before I put them on, to match my red painted calipers.
The results have been all I hoped for. The car stops very smoothly and like you hit a brick wall. And so far.... MUCH less dust!
ZOOOM

 

when I first got my car the brakes were doing the exact same thing and the car only had 19000 miles on it, I bought used rotors from a forum member that had less than 2000 miles on them and put ceramic pads on while I had everything apart, that was 4 years ago and I have never had a problem since.

 

Bought car new in 2000.

At 8000 miles, brake shudder was annoying, cut rotors.

At 16000 miles, brake shudder again reached annoying level, replace rotors.

Shudder returned within another 8000 miles, lived with it, thinking it was maybe my imagination, the transmission, or something else.

At 38000 miles, I had the dealer check it out, again. They told me the brakes needed work. (Looking back, they didn't.) So I bought Eradispeeds and ceramic pads and put them on. Worked great for 500 miles. Then shudder started to come back.

I followed Eradispeeds instructions, seasoning rotors and bedding the pads. (10 regular stops, 10 hard stops, 10 minutes driving without braking, 10 very hard stops, then 20 minutes driving without braking.)

Won't know for sure for a few thousand more miles, but the shudder went completely away and hasn't returned, in the slightest, after 1,000 miles. (By now, I'm an expert at being able to feel the symptoms.)

The shudder will come back someday. I'll simply redo the bedding procedure. I wish I knew this earlier on.

 

Sooo, could using the NAPA rotors & and set of ceramic pads solve this issue? Any discernible difference in braking performance/pedal feel with ceramic pads? TIA!

 

After thinking and living with this problem for several years I am tending to put the onous on improper bedding of the pads whether new or changed out. It would apear that once the combination of pad and rotor gets messed up, cleaning them doesn't help. The cure doesn't seem to be particular pads or particular rotors, just with proper bedding in of the pads on new rotors.
So far it doesn't seem to be "warped rotors".
Can anyone else shed any more light on the subject?
ZOOOM

 

I went through rotors every 12k miles with Raybestos QS(ceramic) pads. With KVR(carbon metalic) I have over 25k on my pads and rotors with no signs of warping.

 

Hey Face,

Where'd you pick-up the KVR's? Thanks!

 

Ceramic pads ARE the problem. They work fine if you dont drive the car hard at all, but as soon as they get some heat into them they glaze the rotors. Just get some hawk hp-s or somthing like it non ceramic and new or freshly cut rotors and bed them properly. If you still warp them, well then you will have to step up to a more agressive pad and deal with the dust. Unless you buy a big brake kit like brembo's or something.

 

turbo5, I don't know if I can agree. My problem started with the original pads and rotors and was cured (I hope) with the ceramics............
ZOOOM

 

When I baught the car(used) it had ceramics, I warped the rotors in a week. A week later I had a crack in the rear rotor soo big you could see through it. I'm luckey it didn't come apart! As soon as I put new rotors on it with hawk hp-s's on it they never warped again! Trust me, I drive the car hard. They have been tested. Since then Ive steped up to hp-plus's due to the hp-s's would fade under lots of heavy braking. But still no warping. I have 30k on these rotors and 2 sets of pads. If you ask anybody that tracks their vette they have a good understanding on brake pads and they will tell you how bad cermacis are. If you drive it like a sunday touring car and are afraid to turn the traction control off well then maby ceramics are for you.

 

Can you recommend a good supplier for the Hawk pads? Thanks!

 

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/resul...lar=&brand=all