The airpump runs for a VERY SHORT time on startup. When I get home Ill check my HPT to tell you exaclty how long and what criteria it is. Certainly it is NOT long enough to hurt the cats or have any affects on the cats. I do realize its to light the cats but from my understanding its moreso for EPA considerations.



Dave

 

00, couple things I didn't see others mention:

You have access to a lift? If you wind up using jackstands, you really do need 20" clearance to swing that left side LGM header up. This'll be sketchy on regular jackstands, so I borrowed a big set and still shored the car with timber as a safety factor.

You can do the whole job by yourself. As you disconnect one end of the OEM H-pipe assembly, just set it on a stand while you disconnect he other end.

Decide if you're doing to run rear O2 sensors or not. If you do, you need to put the cats first and that'll cost you a few ponies. I'd planned to do that but didn't like the clamp lineup, so I dropped the rear sensors and put the X-pipe first.

Having decided on rear sensors (or sims), plug in all applicable wiring to the car's wiring harness and tie it all back before you install the headers. It's tough to do that after the headers are in the way, especially on the right side. Might want to wrap all the wiring, including starter wires, with Thermo-tec insulation as part of the tieback. The purpose of the tieback is to get all that wiring well clear of where the header tubes will be. Might want to plan on Koolsox for the plug wires.

Consider installing ARP header studs instead of reusing the exhaust manifold bolts. It's great to just hang the headers on studs rather than fool with trying to start bolts. However, the clamping principle with studs is different than bolts, so get vendor input on issues like torque values and lube - that info might not be on the product packaging. The headers'll clear the studs during install, no problem.

Like the LS1 tech article suggests, bite the bullet and remove the right valve cover and disconnect the lower steering shaft u-joint. When you get the right side header collector near the starter, unbolt the starter and juggle it as you snake the collector into place, then reinstall the starter.

If you don't have your headers yet, consider having Lou weld in a wideband bung and send them to Jet-Hot for you. Couple hundred more, but, hey, you're already spending a bundle, right?

 

Cool..........thanks for the info. I'm in the military too (I'm assuming by your screen name that you are too). We have an auto hobby shop on base that is damn nice. It has over 8 lifts and all the air tools you could use. They have everything I'll need. I have a freind helping me out Friday to speed up the process and to help with holding the headers while I bolt them and pulling the factory H pipe off, etc. Not to mention if there are 2 people turning wrenches it'll go faster. I have new GM bolts, except for the headers. I have new gaskets and bought TR-55 plugs since I'll be in there. I also bought 02 sims since my headers don't have cats.

So you say that I'll need to remove the U-joint? From all I have read, the starter sometimes gets in the way, but most of the time its not a factor. I've had my headers sitting on my garage floor for over a month now. I had a buch of stuff done to my car and just got it out of the shop. I had a new DTE stage III reaer differential put in with 3:90 gears, a carbon fiber driveshaft with aluminum coupler, and a Mcleod twin disc clutch with adjustable mastercylinder. I also swapped my throwout bearing for the Z06 one. I bought the headers at the same time I bought all the other stuff. I don't have the money to buy anything else right now, so the heat treatment parts will have to wait. I don't drive this car much anyway. However, my next purchase will be the DTE strut brace and maybe the heat stuff your talking about. We'll see..................again thanks for the info.

 

Make sure you use the FACTORY (GM) GASKETS. Also the starter needs to go.

 

Hey Navy-F4, what is the wideband bung for? For possibvle future mod I'm guessing......

 

Hi,
Lou Gigliotti here. I am sorry that I didn't see this post before. If you call, I will put a Tech on the phone with you and go over the whole process. It seems that most of it has already been covered here but you might find some problems on Friday.

Feel free to call us at LGM if you have any problems at all.
Plus if you didin't get the detailed instructions with your headers, we can email them to you.

Please call us and we can help you if you have any snags with the install.

Thanks for your business.

Lou Gigliotti LGM

 

i kinda agree with him a little .. i understand you said you dont know the technical name of items however the location of the brake booster doesnt change unless (and i'm assuming) you're driving a righthand side car ..

good luck with the headers and make sure to retorque the bolts in a few months just to make sure they're tight ..

 

How's that for help? The man himself. Way to go Lou

 

Lou, you have helped me enough. I have great instructions. I just wanted to know where the brake booster nozzle was........that was it! I did buy the air tube delete plates and I'm having them overnighted. So come friday that install should be a little easier. I figure it'll be easier to get the air tube bracket off the header than it'll be putting it back on, plus from what I've seen, it'll clean up the bay nicely.

Thanks for chiming in with concern. It shows the kind of business you like to do!

 

That's the first thing I thought also. This may not be a job he should tackle without assistance.

 

but its not PC, so

 

Is it necessary to remove the starter when installing the LG's?

 

I had to.

 

I did not have to remove the starter.

 

I read your write up on the LG header install, and thought it was very in depth and very well written. I just wanted to let you know that!

 

Hi,

We don't remove it either. Every car is a little different.

Cajundude,
Where is your write up? can you send me a link or put it up here?

Thanks
Lou G

 

Thanks!

Lou, it is on this page .

 

How long did it take you to install the line lock? I have a 6spd as well and might buy a line lock and use your write up to install it.

 

The longest part of the line lock install is running the wires inside of the car. It all depends on how you want to mount the switch. If you just want a hanging switch you could probably do it in 30-45 mins. If you want to do what I did it will probably take a couple of hours.

 

Thats sweet. How about the switch itself. It don't look like a toggle switch, it looks like a single push switch How does that work with your 6 spd?