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I don't know how long it it, but you're talking about having an extremely long wheelbase if you do it the way you just described. I prefer to have my head centered between the front and rear axles, and to keep that geometry, you're talking about adding 5-6 feet to the wheelbase...that'll require to you do more than "lengthen the chassis a little".
I suppose you're trying to save money by avoiding the cost of the Porsche transmission, but all the extra labor to weld aluminum and modify the frame and body is going to be very extensive, and unless you do all the work yourself, it will cost WAAAAY more money.
Also, the Porsche tranny is plenty strong for kit cars because they are so light....and it's not like the T56 is especially strong anyway...
Yes, I have a FFR roadster. And I know what you mean, I have the same 9" driveshaft.
But this is not for that application. It's a custom chassis one-off. I want to push the driver cockpit way up and put the engine and drivetrain behind the driver without the expense of the porsche transaxle. The T56 is cheap.
Not trying to be a smart ***, but if this is a fabrication job you can you, you wouldnt be asking. Sounds totally custom. Although if you plan on a c5 rear end a super short torque tube would relieve a lot of design headaches. With the couplers and bearing plates I doubt it could be less than a foot long.
No, your right, I personally cannot do it. I don't have the skills.
Question however, last one I promise, my design has taken a 180 turn.
How difficult to take about 4" out of the torque tube and would it be safe?
Both the tube and the driveshaft are aluminum. A competent metal fab somebody/shop should be able to perform the task. Pretty much just cutting and welding (I feel I don't have to mention how critical alignment will be). I have found that most driveshaft shops cant deal with the shaft itself as far as balancing. Seems that because is has no U joints they are not set up for it.
I'm about to give it a try, and I believe it will be with success.
My project will entail removing 14.5 inches of Torque tube length.
I have not been able to get anyone with guts enough to try, so: Necessity is the Mother of Invention ! !
The Prop shaft shouldn't be a problem, any driveshaft shop should be able to do that duty. The Tube, on the other hand, seems to scare off machine shops. I think mostly 'cause it's new territory to them.
If only I had the machinery !
In brief, and in theory, and for those who understand "plumbing"… Think of a 1" PVC coupler, now fabricate a coupler out of 5" + aluminum tubing or billet. 6061 alloyed aluminum is available in
6" tubing with .5" walls which nets a 5" inside diameter (same as OD
on the torque tube) Cut the Tube and re-couple together, & weld.
Now then, machinists, be sure you have a precision fit, and be sure to understand distortion factors while welding back together and execute accordingly !