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OK, I have this wheel drag problem..........It all started after having the brake system flushed. I have had techs break lines at each component with no help. The calipers have been replaced.........even with the bleader open, it still drags. I can put it up on the lift and with a two hand hard spin, I get one revolution.
Any ideas? Should I flush the system again? Is there some solution that can be used to break up any blockage?
Thanks,
Yeah, I'm inclined to ask what do you mean by dragging and how are you noticing it?
David's right. If you're spinning the wheel by hand and hearing a little metal on pad rubbing this is not abnormal. Driving, turning etc. will back the pads off, and there is no significant force on them.
If you are feeling drag when driving after letting up the pedal (car still slowing down) then possibly it is a booster issue.
The other OUTSIDE possibility is to clean around the pistons, maybe enough dust and gunk is getting in there preventing them from returning; however, this is unlikely if you ask me. I've had mine pretty gunked up with no issues.
all pads drag some. If they didn't, there would be a delay everything to press the pedal.
If you think yours is excessive, make sure it is the brakes, not the bearings. You would have to remove the pads to confirm.
David, Yellow01, If I remove the wheel, grab the rotor and rock it, the pistons retract and the rotor spins free. Something is not letting the pistons retract fully. I understand there is some friction between pads and rotor but is one revolution of the wheel excessive? I can spin the wheel hard and there is tremendous resistance. Maybe it loosens up as I drive, brakes are functioning correctly, no pulling, no noticable drag down.
Thanks for the help,
Honestly, its a bit difficult to say, but this doesn't sound terribly abnormal. There's alot of drag on the wheel if you think about it. It doesn't spin like a bicycle tire would. Don't know about one revolution.
Maybe do what dave recommends and pull the pads and spin it and see what you get.
Are they the original '98 calipers? Maybe it's time for a rebuild or clean - there could be some gunk/minor corrosion on the sides of the pistons causing increased resistance.
If you're not seeing issues when driving (i.e. prolonged drag after releasing the pedal) or signs of overheating (glazing etc) I probably wouldn't worry.
It's difficult to say much more without being there, sorry. Maybe have the dealer take a look? If I had my car up I'd go spin a wheel but it's kind of tucked in for the weather...
Were the calipers new or rebuilt that you installed? Pop off one of the caliper bolts and swing the cailper up, play with the pistons and check for free movement in and out. If you push in one the other will come out. Do this for both pistons.
When you spin the wheel, can you hear rubbing from the pads? If you remove the pads will the wheel free wheel better than one turn? Double check the glide pins for clean surface and plenty of lube. I had a shop install my pins dry on an infinity Q and the pads wore down in 400 miles The smoke was a tip off though that something was not correct. If there's no problem there then look back at the master.
To make it clearer.....The calipers are new, when I push the pistons back in..........the wheel will spin free, about 4-5 revolutions! It can be repeated on both fronts. All pins are lubed, braded lines are not kinked.
Would any of you think that the origanal fluid flush (machine done at dealership) could have set a partial block in the system?
Thanks,
I wouldn't think that the passages are that small that they would easily clog. The master cylinder may be defective or the vacuum assist actuator and the vacuum is preventing the master from resetting. Pull the vacuum line off the master and see if the same holds true. Also try removing the fuses to the ABS and re-check. I'm fishing here but there's only so many thing that can fail.
wheel bearing
rotors warped
pistons sticking
glide pins
kinked lines(fluid still flows so not really)
distribution block
master cyl
vacuum assist
ABS(I hope not)
Matt, I have pulled the vacumn to the boost pump, no change. I just got back from the dealership.......they are going to re-flush the system and check the rotor run out's, Thursday...........I will ask them to pull the abs fuses if the above dosen't fix the problem.........I will keep you all posted.
Looks like everything is pretty much covered. One thing you might want to check is too much grease on the guide pins. These pins will lock with too much. Just coat them and check the boots don't pop off when you move them limit to limit.
Im thinking that you shoudl be ok. I don tknow if this would matter or not. But have you tried spining the wheel with the motor running.I guess if you get less resistance with the motor running that might be a good sign. Im just throwin ideas out there or trouble shooting ideas. Dont know what else you can check.