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I just did my father's brakes on another GM vehicle (Cadillac) and his stated the same thing. What there talking about is a special spanner wrench used to turn the cylinder back in. I believe they need to be screwed back in due to this feature doubles as a part of the parking brake feature.
I used a duck-bill needle nose pliers to turn the cylinder/piston back in. The initial force required can be more than you think to break free the rust.dust/corrosion etc. After that they turn easily. DO NOT USE A C CLAMP LIKE YOU DO ON THE FRONTS.
I am about to replace my rear pads. I've been told I need a spec tool to screw in the piston to the calipers. Do the pistions screw into the calipers?
The C5 uses a small expanding shoe, drum brake internal to the rear rotor similar to the C2's & C3's. The rear caliper piston simply presses in like the front. You can use a large C-clamp as has been suggested earlier. Turn it slowly and be prepared for the master to gain some fluid.
It's probably not a bad idea to crack the bleeder and using a rubber hose on it, flush the caliper fluid into a container for disposal. Once you're done just add clean fluid to the master as needed.
Learned a great time saver tip from Corvette Fever magazine I'd like to pass along - use a large screwdriver on the top and bottom of the caliper to pry the caliper out (and thus the piston in) before you remove the caliper. Cuts the time to switch pads by quite a bit by not having to fool with the C-clamp. Real handy for guys like me that switch between street and track pads.
Just used a 40 yr old C-clamp on the fronts AND backs...no problem.
If you use a screw driver it seems you might nick the edge of the caliper piston or scratch the rotor...no???
(PS did my first brake job and front rotors...so now I'm an expert)
DH
It doesn't hurt anything, you use the screwdrivers underneath the top and bottom edge of the caliper and the caliper mount, and you pry the front of the caliper toward you. You don't touch the pistons or the rotor, just the caliper backside edges and the caliper mount. It's hard to describe, but once you see someone do it, or a picture of someone doing it, it's obvious. There was a pic in this month's Corvette Fever mag if I recall. I found it to be a good time saver, because the c clamp always shifted on me and only pushed in one piston at a time!
It doesn't hurt anything, you use the screwdrivers underneath the top and bottom edge of the caliper and the caliper mount, and you pry the front of the caliper toward you. You don't touch the pistons or the rotor, just the caliper backside edges and the caliper mount. It's hard to describe, but once you see someone do it, or a picture of someone doing it, it's obvious. There was a pic in this month's Corvette Fever mag if I recall. I found it to be a good time saver, because the c clamp always shifted on me and only pushed in one piston at a time!
OK...I get what you mean. You lever the whole caliper against the mount and the piston slides in
I knew i was getting suckered into buying that expensive $5 C-clamp.
OK...I get what you mean. You lever the whole caliper against the mount and the piston slides in
I knew i was getting suckered into buying that expensive $5 C-clamp.
Frank...........
DH
Howie in your case you didn't have the two screwdrivers so the C-clamp was a bargain. The only tool in that Taiwan tool chest of yours worth $5 is the C-clamp.
Last edited by frank dupuy; Dec 20, 2005 at 08:55 PM.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by deec73
How much do dealerships charger for a front and back brake job?
Don't know, but whatever it is it's too much.
BTW, all us "C" clamp users here are correct. The parking brake design is different on different vehicles. Those that utilize the caliper piston for both braking and parking, need to have the piston screwed back into the caliper when replacing rear pads. The special tool Bruce1899 asks about makes it easy. The C5 does not.
A "C" clamp (or Joe_G's expensive GlobeMaster screwdrivers )will work just fine.
It doesn't hurt anything, you use the screwdrivers underneath the top and bottom edge of the caliper and the caliper mount, and you pry the front of the caliper toward you. You don't touch the pistons or the rotor, just the caliper backside edges and the caliper mount. It's hard to describe, but once you see someone do it, or a picture of someone doing it, it's obvious. There was a pic in this month's Corvette Fever mag if I recall. I found it to be a good time saver, because the c clamp always shifted on me and only pushed in one piston at a time!
I find the C Clamp just as fast as the screwdriver method. Just put it across the caliper, tighten against the pad and push the pistons all the way in.
Bill
I had front brakes put on at a local sports cars shop. It was 85 bucks labor including turning both front rotors. I bought Wagner thermal core pads, and so far, im happy with them. They seem like good pads.