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I am reciving a NOS kit in a few days and will have to change the plugs to the TR6's which I already have on hand.
Well I stroled to the garage only to find out how difficult it looks on this motor just to change plugs. I didn't know if I should tug on the metal part or just the rubber...etc anyone can help a lil? Any special tools I woluld need?
I am not that mechanicaly inclined its just that I didn't think it would be such a pita on this car.
You don't need any special tools. It's a hell of a lot easier to swap than an f-body, but if you want to make it even easier, remove the coil packs and get a snap-on double-swivel sparkplug tool.
pretty much, grab it as close to the plug as you can and pull it out, there isn't much room to work, and I remember 1 or 2 of them being pretty tough to pull out. It's possible to damage them, so it might be worth having some spares around.
Wear gloves, pull on the spark plug boots and twist back and forth to release, seems like they wont go but be patient. Use the wobbly plug socket to remove plugs, I use an old sparklpug boot to reinstall new plugs. Put some dilectric grease inside the plug wire boots on the install will make it easier the next time you remove them. The drivers side rear is the hardest to get to, on that one I used 2 extensions with a wobbly in the middle work great.
k... I am frustrated. I can not belive that I can't pull atleast 1 freaking plug out of the socket!!!
Do I grab the rubber part of the end of the cable or that metal like housing too?
I don't know I have tried mulitiple without success. They seem to be really a tight fit. All I know is if i can't even pull one....than no way il be able to do the rest of em.
Anyone near Newark,Ca wants some free beer and lunch to help me change my plugs jeeeeez i can't belive this.
I'm in the middle of changing out the stock plug wires for Callaway wires. Is the metal boot/heatshield thing necessary? It doesn't seem to fit over the Callaway wires very well at all, which leads me to believe it is not.
The ends of the Callaway wires are angled, so they won't slide all the way in the boot. I seem to be getting decent contact with the plugs with the boot on there, but a comparison of the end of the wires leads me to believe that the wire is not all the way onto the plug....
Oh yeah, and pull the stock wires carefully. I accidentally got a bit of the wire (instead of the plug) and ripped it right off. I had to use needle nose pliers to grab the metal boot the get the rest of the wire off the plug. Of course, this was on the driver's side, so it was a PITA. Pull carefully....
Edit: I just looked at the picture of the wires installed on Callaway's website, and they have not used the metal boot in the picture. Hopefully, that means it is not needed. I guess I'll install without the metal boot and keep an eye on it...
Last edited by TarHeelDan2001; Dec 26, 2005 at 03:46 PM.
Here's a good tip: I used a pair of large pliers to grab the metal portion of the wire near the plug and then used a long screwdriver to pry the thing off. It worked every time and was much easier than breaking your wrist!!
K, Just went back furiously and changed 6 plugs so far.
I did the hardest first and left the passinger 2 front as last ones.
I am going to be running a nos setup maybe 100/125/150 shot on 91 octane...all i have here in ca.
Do I need to gap the plugs I belive they come .37 gaped stock ?
I forgot sorta to do that .. .. .. not sure i hear alot of ppl running .35 but i figgured it wont be much of a difference what yall think?
PS: I used the plier method ..only thing is you can't just pull or else the whole rubber boot will rise up the string and the plug will be still attached.
I used pliers on the metal part and as I pulled I yanked it a bit left to right and they pop right out.
No offence.
Everyone here seems to bash on the ricers but damn...my honda and toyota nissan plugs can be changed out in less then 10 min. I guess they have done something right .
k... I am frustrated. I can not belive that I can't pull atleast 1 freaking plug out of the socket!!!
Do I grab the rubber part of the end of the cable or that metal like housing too?
I don't know I have tried mulitiple without success. They seem to be really a tight fit. All I know is if i can't even pull one....than no way il be able to do the rest of em.
Anyone near Newark,Ca wants some free beer and lunch to help me change my plugs jeeeeez i can't belive this.
Take her down and let them swap the plugs for you.
k... I am frustrated. I can not belive that I can't pull atleast 1 freaking plug out of the socket!!!
Do I grab the rubber part of the end of the cable or that metal like housing too?
I don't know I have tried mulitiple without success. They seem to be really a tight fit. All I know is if i can't even pull one....than no way il be able to do the rest of em.
Anyone near Newark,Ca wants some free beer and lunch to help me change my plugs jeeeeez i can't belive this.
free beer and lunch throw in a plane ticket and I'm there dude
Just take a hammer and a...................... (kidding)
You probably mean .037......not .37. But you should always check the gaps. Just because they was preset once, doesn't mean they are still preset after shipping from the manufactor, to the warehouse, then to the store, then to you.
And better to have plug wires that is hard to come off, than to have some that comes off when they shouldn't.
K, Just went back furiously and changed 6 plugs so far.
I did the hardest first and left the passinger 2 front as last ones.
I am going to be running a nos setup maybe 100/125/150 shot on 91 octane...all i have here in ca.
Do I need to gap the plugs I belive they come .37 gaped stock ?
I forgot sorta to do that .. .. .. not sure i hear alot of ppl running .35 but i figgured it wont be much of a difference what yall think?
PS: I used the plier method ..only thing is you can't just pull or else the whole rubber boot will rise up the string and the plug will be still attached.
I used pliers on the metal part and as I pulled I yanked it a bit left to right and they pop right out.
No offence.
Everyone here seems to bash on the ricers but damn...my honda and toyota nissan plugs can be changed out in less then 10 min. I guess they have done something right .
Those cars just have 4 cylinders. Most GM/FMC & DC 4 cyc cars are easy also.
The ricer is easy because there are only four of them. There is only one hard one on the Corvette and you dont have to route the wires along the block in the clips like all the other cars. Pull and twist the wires and it will come off. If the wire busts, no big deal because you should also change it out with the plugs.
Guys...my car was a PITA to change plug wires...I think what needs to be taken into account is A) how long the stock ones have been on there & B) How big your hands are... My big hands...SUCKED pulling that last driver's side plug wire out...Get some mechanics gloves defintely...I can see how that would make the job alot less painful!