Control Wires to AC Compresser
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 48
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Control Wires to AC Compresser
Please help with the following issue:
Last week my AC belt frayed and cut the two control/power wires (green and black) to the AC compresser. I just finished replacing the belt and fixing the wires. I had to splice in an additional 2 to 3 inches of wire to replace the mangled/cut section. I made sure to include the small resister that was on the wires (I connected it to the new wires) during the repair. The problem is that when I start the AC, it blows the 10 amp fuse (located in the engine compartment fuse block).
My unknowns:
The replacement wires I used to repair were 16 guage not the 18 guage that was existing and I did not know if the resister was supposed to be oriented a particular way (although I tried it both ways after the fuse blew a second time).
Can anyone give me a hint for the next step, I'm not sure if the wire size makes a difference or the resister needs to be trashed and a new one purchased, etc. I can check the voltage and resistence if needed but dont think I can get that far with the fuse blowing. I am sure I connected the wires properly when splicing. I will check again now.
Thanks.
Last week my AC belt frayed and cut the two control/power wires (green and black) to the AC compresser. I just finished replacing the belt and fixing the wires. I had to splice in an additional 2 to 3 inches of wire to replace the mangled/cut section. I made sure to include the small resister that was on the wires (I connected it to the new wires) during the repair. The problem is that when I start the AC, it blows the 10 amp fuse (located in the engine compartment fuse block).
My unknowns:
The replacement wires I used to repair were 16 guage not the 18 guage that was existing and I did not know if the resister was supposed to be oriented a particular way (although I tried it both ways after the fuse blew a second time).
Can anyone give me a hint for the next step, I'm not sure if the wire size makes a difference or the resister needs to be trashed and a new one purchased, etc. I can check the voltage and resistence if needed but dont think I can get that far with the fuse blowing. I am sure I connected the wires properly when splicing. I will check again now.
Thanks.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,540
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From: bloomfield nj
you have a dead short.the diode absorbs the voltage spike that happens when the clutch turns off[keeps the pcm from burning up].go back and make sure the green wire isn't touching ground[i think the green is power and black is ground].
make sure the diode is good,it should show a complete circuit in one direction only.take a ohm meter,hook it up across the diode,it should show a complete circuit,then reverse the leads,it should then show a open circuit,if it doesn't,that's your short.
make sure the diode is good,it should show a complete circuit in one direction only.take a ohm meter,hook it up across the diode,it should show a complete circuit,then reverse the leads,it should then show a open circuit,if it doesn't,that's your short.
Last edited by dpd; Dec 28, 2005 at 03:45 PM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
I checked the diode and it has an open circuit in both directions so it looks like I found the short. I went to Chevy parts and will have a replacement in the morning, $27. I will do the install after work tomorrow, no further posts will mean this worked and the problem is corrected. Thanks for the help.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Yeah, I was thinking about that. My plan is to use my ohm meter to find out which way the circuit is made and make sure that is the way to the compressor. From your info, it is open in the direction back to the PCM. Does this sound about right?
