Well that’s what the Chevy dealer told me over the phone without even looking at it. My 99-6spd coupe started showing service traction control, active handling and ABS. It took a listing of the codes and got this:
· DTC P0567 Cruise Control Resume Switch Circuit
· DTC P0568 Cruise Control Set Switch Circuit
· DTC P0571 Cruise Control Brake Switch Circuit
· DTC P1539 Air Conditioning (A/C) Clutch Feedback Circuit High Voltage
· DTC P1546 Air Conditioning (A/C) Clutch Feedback Circuit Low Voltage
· DTC P1571 Traction Control Torque Request Circuit
· DTC P1574 Stoplamp Switch Circuit
· DTC P1575 Extended Travel Brake Switch Circuit
It started out a few weeks ago when a clicking started in my dash where the defroster air comes out of. Then my key fob stopped working and then a couple days later the codes. So doing searches on the forum, it seems that many people have similar problems. I started following forum Bill Curlee’s trouble shooting procedures to see if I could locate the problem myself. First I had the battery checked (3 times at 3 different places) and they all said it and the alternator is fine. Next I removed the battery and plate it sits on and noticed corrosion on the steel braided wires along the firewall. It didn’t look that bad as the wires inside the braids seemed fine. I then checked the grounds next to the battery and behind the passenger’s headlight. I next pulled the cover off the passenger floor well to expose the BCM. No moisture, it looks clean as a whistle, but I will start checking the connections around it. That’s where I am now. Any HELP or INFORMATION you could provide would be greatly appreciated. The whole things seem a bit overwhelming to me.

HELLLLLLLP!!!!!!!

Clayton

 

How old is your battery? If over 2 years, get a new one, clear the codes (see tech tips), take a breather, and drive a few days.

Post back after that.

HTH

Smash

 

There's an access panel under the car in the area of the passenger footwell under the battery. It's accessable from under the car.
That's where the shorted wiring was on my '99 vert.
I was pulling a ton of codes and the ignition was cutting out while driving.
You may want to give it a look.

 

The Chevy Dealer said 10,000 to 12,000 dollars to fix..
What this really means is, they do not want to work on your corvette because they do not have anyone qualified to work on it

 

It started out a few weeks ago when a clicking started in my dash where the defroster air comes out of. Then my key fob stopped working and then a couple days later the codes. So doing searches on the forum, it seems that many people have similar problems. I started following forum Bill Curlee’s trouble shooting procedures to see if I could locate the problem myself. First I had the battery checked (3 times at 3 different places) and they all said it and the alternator is fine. Next I removed the battery and plate it sits on and noticed corrosion on the steel braided wires along the firewall. It didn’t look that bad as the wires inside the braids seemed fine. I then checked the grounds next to the battery and behind the passenger’s headlight. I next pulled the cover off the passenger floor well to expose the BCM. No moisture, it looks clean as a whistle, but I will start checking the connections around it. That’s where I am now. Any HELP or INFORMATION you could provide would be greatly appreciated. The whole things seem a bit overwhelming to me.

 

Are you talking about the access panel in the rear of the Passenger side wheel well?

 

And don't forget to check and clean ALL of your grounds! For $12K, er no, for $8K, I'll fly to your home, remove and clean ALL your gounds, and replace a part or two, then party our butts off and leave with $5500 in my pocket. Get it? Don't do it! Find another Chevy dealer ..... FAST

 

That my be true, but at first I thought they saw a sucker coming.

The battery is only 8 months old and checks out fine by 3 different places. I will check out tech tips. Thanks so far and wish me luck.

Clayton

 

Don't use the battery age as a sole reference. Mine was 6 months old when it went bad.

Definitely start by disasembling and cleaning all the ground packs. The worst ones on my car were the four (two on each side) under the hood and the one up under the backend by the muffler. It may help and can't hurt. Don't ask me how I know.....

Good Luck

 

Diagnosing a car over the phone??? LoL..

As Evil-Twin said about them not wanting to work on it or not having someone qualified to work on it I agree.. If they wanted the job they would have had you bring them the car to check it out ect.


Also Estimates over the phone... thats another issue.. how can you give an accurate esitmate over the phone without seeing the car, yes here are labor guides, but how can you account for rust and corrosion, and the extras that you can't see like, for instance a trailer hitch that is in the way of removing a fuel tank.. YES things like that happen and if you give someone a price over the phone they will hold you to it. YOU SAID it would be this much. Or when they call us they are just fishing for the lowest price.. and lowest price many times is lowest quality. Anyway just had to rant a bit.

-=Rick

 

That's the one.

 

... good luck.

 

My first replacement battery lasted less than a year. Shortly therafter the new battery developed problems that were corrosion and ground related.C5s are not possessed, but rather a plastic car with a poor grounding system.

 

your common denominator all seems to be that all your faults look like they have the same thing in common.all their wiring goes through the fuseblock under the hood[junctions]the a/c clutch speed/brake signals/cruise signals go through the box and branch off to the appropriate modules[2 being the pcm and tac and ebcm].i would look there for loose connections,corrosion,etc.any leaking batteries lately?

12k to fix it = .hell for 12k i'll knit a new harness with my teeth

 

Any and all information is welcome. Even some humor will help me get through this one.
Thanks everyone for your info and and good wishes.

This is a great place for Corvette owners.

Clayton

 

I would say replace your battery before you do anything. A bad battery can work sometimes perfectly and other times screw things up. I had a battery that was 4-5 months old cause me problems and I didn't believe it was the problem so I tore the car apart trying to find a short or something. Seats out door panels off, etc. I thought it could not possibly be the battery because my first symptom was just the driver's side window switch didn't work. Then I would get all the warnings on the dash, etc. I replaced the battery finally and it solved everything. I could of been modding something else in the few hours I spent trying to track a non existant short down. Are the troubles displayed every now and then or are they on all the time?

 

Good tips from everyone. It looks like an electrical problem. From all the posts I have read, it sounds like a ground connection problem or a battery problem. Do you have an extended warranty? If so,is it a GMMP policy? If not, you can POSSIBLY take it to a specialty shop (Corvettes and LS1 cars). I know my Warranty Direct extended warranty is good at many of these places here in the DFW metroplex...(1.) Start with the simple things that you can accomplish yourself.(2). Ask questions from the forum members next.(3) Hopefully you have a knowlegable member in your areathat can help you. (4) Go to someone who has a shop, with a reputation in your area with this Forum. (5) Last but not least, get some vasoline and go to the Dealership..

 

David,

Thanks for the help. Unfortunately, I do not have any warranty; don’t know of a competent Corvette shop in Las Vegas. If anyone knows of one, please let me know.

 

 

ttt