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Replacing Clutch Master Cylinder

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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 05:42 PM
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Default Replacing Clutch Master Cylinder

Hello guys, I am having to replace the clutch master cylinder in my '98 C5. I just installed a SPEC Stage 3 Clutch and GM Slave Cylinder in it about 3000 miles ago. Does anyone have any tips on installing and is there a better type of master that I can buy? Any help would be great. C5's are still kind of new to me. Thanks Greg.....
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ESCAPEDGREG
Hello guys, I am having to replace the clutch master cylinder in my '98 C5. I just installed a SPEC Stage 3 Clutch and GM Slave Cylinder in it about 3000 miles ago. Does anyone have any tips on installing and is there a better type of master that I can buy? Any help would be great. C5's are still kind of new to me. Thanks Greg.....
get the z06 master, although all c5's 2001 and newer have this as an upgraded part and when you order a new you will get the later master cyl.
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ESCAPEDGREG
Hello guys, I am having to replace the clutch master cylinder in my '98 C5. I just installed a SPEC Stage 3 Clutch and GM Slave Cylinder in it about 3000 miles ago. Does anyone have any tips on installing and is there a better type of master that I can buy? Any help would be great. C5's are still kind of new to me. Thanks Greg.....
Why are you "having to" replace your master cylinder ?? Low clutch pedal engagement?? The majority of SPEC's that I have installed have immediately had a low engagement hieght. If this is the problem, prepare to have McLoed have wallet-sex with you. It is the only thing that will help. The Mcloed mastercylinder has a 1/16 '" larger bore diameter. This fixed my SPEC issues.
Remove drivers side front rear inner fender liner and that will gain you the easiest access. Have fun
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 02:29 PM
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I run and LS7 clutch and added the Cartek adjustable master so that I could set the engagement exactly where I wanted to.
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 04:07 PM
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 07:47 PM
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Hey Raft, no the pedal is fine. My problem is that it is starting to leak into the car. I was swapping interiors and noticed the fluid soaked into the matting on it. Plus have been having to add fluid every once in a while. But thanks for the advise. Thanks Greg....
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 08:21 PM
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If there are no problems other than leakage, just replace it with a stock one. Sorry about your carpet. If you are careful when you replace it, you may be lucky and not have to bleed it.
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 11:04 PM
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I just did this a couple days ago (installed my McLeod cylinder). My advise is to have plenty of band-aids available for the cuts on your arms. It was easier than I thought to get the old one out. But getting the new in is a little tricky. First trying to get it through the firewall and aligned so it can be twist-locked into place was a pain (probably easier with a 2nd person). And then the worst is trying to get the snap-lock ring back on the clutch pedal (to hold the cylinder shaft on). I did it without disassembling under the dash, but if you have medium sized fingers or bigger, expect it to be a HUGE PITA.

Good Luck,
Derrick
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by tazinhawaii
I just did this a couple days ago (installed my McLeod cylinder). My advise is to have plenty of band-aids available for the cuts on your arms. It was easier than I thought to get the old one out. But getting the new in is a little tricky. First trying to get it through the firewall and aligned so it can be twist-locked into place was a pain (probably easier with a 2nd person). And then the worst is trying to get the snap-lock ring back on the clutch pedal (to hold the cylinder shaft on). I did it without disassembling under the dash, but if you have medium sized fingers or bigger, expect it to be a HUGE PITA.

Good Luck,
Derrick

An extra set of eyeballs is very helpful. Additionally stick master-cylinder rod through firewall and attached to clutch pedal BEFORE you attempt to twist into firewall (or at least on the correct side of the pedal )
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by RAFTRACER
Why are you "having to" replace your master cylinder ?? Low clutch pedal engagement?? The majority of SPEC's that I have installed have immediately had a low engagement hieght. If this is the problem, prepare to have McLoed have wallet-sex with you. It is the only thing that will help. The Mcloed mastercylinder has a 1/16 '" larger bore diameter. This fixed my SPEC issues.
Remove drivers side front rear inner fender liner and that will gain you the easiest access. Have fun

I disagree. I road race and drag race my 98 with a Spec 3 plus. The adjustable master is nice, but not needed. When my spec was installed I had low engagement. We installed a new master and solved the problem with the pedal height. You can also add a spacer if you want the clutch higher. Save the bucks for now and just do a factory master.
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by taaz024
I disagree. I road race and drag race my 98 with a Spec 3 plus. The adjustable master is nice, but not needed. When my spec was installed I had low engagement. We installed a new master and solved the problem with the pedal height. You can also add a spacer if you want the clutch higher. Save the bucks for now and just do a factory master.
I am only speaking from my experience. I have installed 10-11 of these things. On typical stage 3's I dont seem to have a problem, but the majority of SPEC's that I install are stage 3 hybrids with the lightened aluminum pressure plate and aluminum flywheel. Believe me I would rather not have to spend $300+ dollars on that way overly priced McLeod mastercylinder, but in that aplication it seems to be a neccessity. Beats the hell out of damaged synchros in the T56 and associated repair costs of the transmission. BTW I do a little roadracing too
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 11:28 PM
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Danny, is the spec stg 3 with light flywheel/pp what you're recommending for me? I'm still very undecided after reading some mixed reviews. I'm sure that you guys will get it set up right, I just want the long-term experience to be issue-free.

I don't really get into drag racing much these days, as I plan to replace that with autocross this year. Still, I daily drive my car a lot, and want to know what sort of drivability changes to expect.

Avoiding wallet-sex is always a priority until I finish med school...lol
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