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Last night I was bored and been wanting to add screws to my slicks. Went to the local hardware store and got 32 #14 x 3/4" SS screws, spent about 4.50, came home made a template and drilled 4 holes straight into the flange and 4 holes @ 45 degrees on each side of the wheel. Needless to say the tires won't be spinning on the wheels ANYMORE!
Phil
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Wow, you screwed yourself Phil
Sounds like your latest engine pkg is going to require it, I left Asmokegars slicks unscrewed and the tires spun 3-4" per pass! Needless to say he got screwed too.
Sounds like your latest engine pkg is going to require it, I left Asmokegars slicks unscrewed and the tires spun 3-4" per pass! Needless to say he got screwed too.
Dayyyyum.... 4"?! Time to borrow some metal tank track and wheel assembly.
Scott
Last night I was bored and been wanting to add screws to my slicks. Went to the local hardware store and got 32 #14 x 3/4" SS screws, spent about 4.50, came home made a template and drilled 4 holes straight into the flange and 4 holes @ 45 degrees on each side of the wheel. Needless to say the tires won't be spinning on the wheels ANYMORE!
Phil
I used a sealant with the bolts and left them @ 20psi to see if they leak down any. I drilled 4 straight and 4 @ 45deg. Pretty easy took about 10 minutes.
Phil
That's a very interesting mod you have there. Any pics of the process ?
Man, its sooo simple. Just pick a ARP bolt to start on the wheel....
Mark the rim lip with sharpie at the starting ARP bolt
Count 2.5 bolts and mark in the center
Count 2.5 bolts and mark lip next to bolt
** Basically every 5th ARP bolt will have a screw next to it and the ones in the middle will split the bolts
Once the wheel is marked, take a center punch and punch the 4 "Bolt"
marks and punch them on the lip.
The marks that are between the 2 bolts get punched on the radius @ 45degrees to the bead.
Use a 13/64(checking size) to drill the holes
Use sealant on the bolts screw in and back out 1/4 turn.
The reason we use to pin the bead, back in the day was so you did not shear off the valve stem of the tube, a common occurrence!. Even in today's genre` "screwing' the beads has its place, but not as critical as it use to be when we had tubes in the slicks.
Last edited by Evil-Twin; Feb 11, 2006 at 01:16 PM.
I don't run tubes either. my slicks leak down over a week's time. the screws push the bead very slightly away from the rim in some places. if you run tubes, they will not leak down. I just refuse to put the extra weight on the car. especially since it's unsprung rotating weight.
The screw goes half way into the thick lip of the bead. It is almost a 3/8 inch of rubber. There is no way the tire will rotate within the rim once they are pinned. We use to use eight screws per rim.
The screw goes half way into the thick lip of the bead. It is almost a 3/8 inch of rubber. There is no way the tire will rotate within the rim once they are pinned. We use to use eight screws per rim.
With 16 screws holding them in, they are not going anywhere.
Phil
Originally Posted by Evil-Twin
The screw goes half way into the thick lip of the bead. It is almost a 3/8 inch of rubber. There is no way the tire will rotate within the rim once they are pinned.
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We use to use eight screws per rimWith 16 screws holding them in, they are not going anywhere.
Phil
Now I'm going back to the late '70's, but I remember using Moroso screws for my slicks. I always brought an air tank with me to the track to add air if need be.