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How do you lower the car?

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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 09:28 AM
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Default How do you lower the car?

How do you lower the car on stock equipment? Is there a valve you turn on each shock or something? How much lowering is needed to imporve the look?
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 09:43 AM
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https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...D=27&TopicID=1
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 11:46 AM
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You can check this one out too, very good instructions, with pics!!
http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/hobbi...5_Lowering.htm
Dan
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 12:29 PM
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with PICS

http://www.z06vette.com/diy_lower.php
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 02:40 PM
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an inch for free...thats cool!
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 10:14 PM
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I just lowered my car this afternoon, after previewing all the posted instructions that were provided by links in this thread.

I want to point out that none of these instructions were very clear about the rear bolts, which may cause confusion for some people who do the front first, which is what I did, because all the posts indicated that it was harder.

Everything went pretty much as planned, except for turning the rear bolts or nuts. Two of the instructions didn't specify which way to turn them, while one of them said to turn them clockwise using the head of the bolt on the bottom side of the rear spring.

Well, that's just plain wrong!

Whether you prefer to turn the bolt from the bottom, or you prefer to turn the nut from the top, you need to UNSCREW the nut or bolt, which are standard threaded, which is in the counter-clockwise direction.

One article simply said to "turn the bolts", which might also lead people to believe to turn them "in", as in tighen them.

So, in all instructions, it would've been much less confusing if the authors simply said to unscrew the bolts, or nuts for both the front and rear springs, but simply point out that you need to do the unscrewing from the top side of the spring in the front of the car.

I guess it's a matter of some people getting overzealous when creating those articles.
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by MrLeadFoot
I just lowered my car this afternoon, after previewing all the posted instructions that were provided by links in this thread.

I want to point out that none of these instructions were very clear about the rear bolts, which may cause confusion for some people who do the front first, which is what I did, because all the posts indicated that it was harder.

Everything went pretty much as planned, except for turning the rear bolts or nuts. Two of the instructions didn't specify which way to turn them, while one of them said to turn them clockwise using the head of the bolt on the bottom side of the rear spring.

Well, that's just plain wrong!

Whether you prefer to turn the bolt from the bottom, or you prefer to turn the nut from the top, you need to UNSCREW the nut or bolt, which are standard threaded, which is in the counter-clockwise direction.

One article simply said to "turn the bolts", which might also lead people to believe to turn them "in", as in tighen them.

So, in all instructions, it would've been much less confusing if the authors simply said to unscrew the bolts, or nuts for both the front and rear springs, but simply point out that you need to do the unscrewing from the top side of the spring in the front of the car.

I guess it's a matter of some people getting overzealous when creating those articles.

Hi Mr. LF....

I use a socket and a 1/2" drive ratchet on the head of the bolt, underneath. and a open-end wrench on the nut - that way I can watch the thread count on the bolt while I am turning it.

Excessive enthusiasm is the name of the game here - and I love it!

best regards -

mqqn
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by MrLeadFoot
I just lowered my car this afternoon, after previewing all the posted instructions that were provided by links in this thread.

I want to point out that none of these instructions were very clear about the rear bolts, which may cause confusion for some people who do the front first, which is what I did, because all the posts indicated that it was harder.

Everything went pretty much as planned, except for turning the rear bolts or nuts. Two of the instructions didn't specify which way to turn them, while one of them said to turn them clockwise using the head of the bolt on the bottom side of the rear spring.

Well, that's just plain wrong!

Whether you prefer to turn the bolt from the bottom, or you prefer to turn the nut from the top, you need to UNSCREW the nut or bolt, which are standard threaded, which is in the counter-clockwise direction.

One article simply said to "turn the bolts", which might also lead people to believe to turn them "in", as in tighen them.

So, in all instructions, it would've been much less confusing if the authors simply said to unscrew the bolts, or nuts for both the front and rear springs, but simply point out that you need to do the unscrewing from the top side of the spring in the front of the car.

I guess it's a matter of some people getting overzealous when creating those articles.
Righty=tighty.....Lefty= Loosey...
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Old Feb 14, 2006 | 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by mqqn
Hi Mr. LF....

I use a socket and a 1/2" drive ratchet on the head of the bolt, underneath. and a open-end wrench on the nut - that way I can watch the thread count on the bolt while I am turning it.

Excessive enthusiasm is the name of the game here - and I love it!

best regards -

mqqn
I, too, counted the threads in the rear. I had 11 showing on top, then loosened the nut from the top until I could just see the top of the 3rd thread showing between the nut and the retaining clip.

In the front, I turned the bolt out 11 turns until it stopped, then reversed it one full turn.

Incidentally, I have the F45 option, and I drove it about an hour ago on a ride that included 2 miles down a two-laned road with sweepers and twisties, and even some dips, and noticed that it handles much better. As others who've lowered their cars have noticed, there's no more body roll to the opposite side when turning any more. And, shockingly, the ride is actually BETTER. I've lowered cars in the past, and they ALWAYS rode a bit stiffer, but my Coupe does not ride stiffer at all. It actually rides better.

Before, on the softest setting the car would float a bit on dips at high speed, which is nice when just crusing down the freeway, but whenever I encountered turns I wanted to bear down into, I always switched to a stiffer setting. Of course, by doing that, I would experience more bump steer if there were any bumps in the turns. Now, even on the softest setting, it handles nice in the turns, and the softer setting lessens the bump steer.

I also noticed that on the softest setting over dips, there's no more "floating", and it seems like the suspension is more controlled throughout the shock travel.

After thinking about all this, I've come to the conclusion that GM intentionally designed our C5s to be adjustable. They probably ship the cars at higher heights for better drivability on demos, which is where cars are really sold. Imagine what it would be like if on a test drive, prospective owners scraped going up dealership driveways. That would be a negative experience, which would probably deter at least some people from buying, so the smart marketers must've decided to make the car drive as easy as possible, as well as be more "cushy" because most new Vette buyers are older folks.

Then, once you own the car, you can lower it down to where it seems like it rides best. Although straight measurement got my car down only about 7/8 of an inch lower, the change in ride and handling is significantly better, almost as if the car was designed to be at the new lower height. But, even that little bit causes more scraping on my driveway. However, it sure looks alot better, too. I would've posted before and after pics, but it was getting dark when I finished, so pics will have to wait 'til tomorrow. I can't wait to drive it again. For once I hope the wife has errands for me to run!
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