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i have a 2000 C5, my driver side lock recently went out...it will lock but it will not unlock. everything else works. does the same thing when i try to use the switch on the pass side. had the diagnostics, pulled codes. the only ones that sounded unordinary were
IPC- B0516H Speedometer: I have noticed that when I get past 15 mph the mph light goes from dimly lit to brightly lit. But other that that it works fine
A0-LDCM- B2284 Battery #2: ???
Any help would be appreciated, I am a super noobie, I just bought the car 2 weeks ago.
i have a 2000 C5, my driver side lock recently went out...it will lock but it will not unlock. everything else works. does the same thing when i try to use the switch on the pass side. had the diagnostics, pulled codes. the only ones that sounded unordinary were
IPC- B0516H Speedometer: I have noticed that when I get past 15 mph the mph light goes from dimly lit to brightly lit. But other that that it works fine
A0-LDCM- B2284 Battery #2: ???
Any help would be appreciated, I am a super noobie, I just bought the car 2 weeks ago.
check for a loose connection on the harness going to the lock/window, etc. You should have about 12 other codes, too - communications errors, lost contact with BCM, and a variety of others.
Possibly a second battery code (B2282 or B2286, I forget which direction the numbers go)
(I get the Speedo error code as well.)
There are a couple of recent threads about this:
Search for gremlins and/or window agony.
I think the bright/dim on the speedo itself is normal - mine has done it since day 1. Depend on (external) light intensity, and likely realted to the light sentinal feature.
the harness is inside the door right? i have other codes but they were under differnet categories, most were U1016 H codes that were doubles and a bunch of comms ones, one was current.
it was under the B0-RFA
C2115 H C
could this affect it? that catagory is for the keyless fob isn't it?
thanks in advance for the help
just cleared the codes. started it up drove around nothing came up. during driving the voltage was at a steady 14-14.5. during the diagnostic mode, voltage was only at 12.5. is this normal? i read on another post that this meant your battery was going bad, which could POSSIBLY explain the door malfunction. But why would everything else work? I haven't checked the grounds but i figure if it was a crappy ground than voltage would be nil.
Should I replace the battery? I haven't changed it since i bought the car.
The harness is inside the door right? ... just cleared the codes. started it up drove around nothing came up. during driving the voltage was at a steady 14-14.5. during the diagnostic mode, voltage was only at 12.5. is this normal?
Yes, the harness in the door - which is inside the accordion tube.
The 12 or 14 codes I had were all over the place, not just in the "B" area of diagnostics.
When my window/lock/light in the door were not working, voltage ran about 13.3. When I jiggled the accordion tube (and the lock/lights/window) started working again, voltage immediately went back up to 14.2-14.4.
So it seems the loss of door functionality and low voltage are directly related.