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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 07:44 PM
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Default dynatech long tubes

Just put the set on this weekend, also the high flow cats and x pipe. Whoa what a difference!! And so easy, about 3 hrs start to finish. Tom
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 08:47 PM
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Default 02 extensions?

did you have to use o2 extensions for the sensors of do they mount in the stock locations for the dynatech?
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 10:13 PM
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Dynatechs come w/ one set (2) O2 sensor extension wires. Must use these
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 10:17 PM
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You're a better man than I. It took me 7 hours of lying on my back !
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 11:13 AM
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Congratulations! Can you answer some questions for me?

Three freinds and I spent six hours this pass Sunday and we are not complete due to some problems.........

Note: We installed head shield tape around wires near the headers which took some time. Found a lot of the factory plastic loom was brittle and fell off the wires just by touch! If stock exhaust did this ....imagine heat damage from long tubes. We also spent a lot of time getting the car on jack stands in safest possible way about 21 inches off ground.

We got as far as hanging both headers with four bolts.......
Having trouble getting two bolts into each of the heads, they start in but get very tight after a few turns of the head. Could they be cross threading? Any ideas on getting these bolts started? I am using the super maxx bolts supplied for the headers.

We found one spark plug wire to be damaged. It checks out around 750 ohms like the others but it has the wire shield slightly pulled out of the boot. My have to get a new wire?

We got the passenger side header dropped in from the top with out removing the valve cover as in the instructions. Had to move the started and get a little forcefull with the install. I noticed that the air tube flange will not line up flush to the header. Not sure if we just bent the piping when installing the header. Any ideas on this?

Thinking about installing the ARP Header Studs? Did you use these?

Thanks




Piddling with the above discussed plug wire and it just broke? Think we may have yanked on wire instead of boot by mistake during removal of plugs.

Last edited by out2run; Feb 27, 2006 at 12:27 PM.
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 12:11 PM
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I had no trouble with the header bolts. Did you use anti-sieze lube on them? You should. All wiring went fine. Plug wires cleared good, but did install new ac delco irradium plugs. My wife even likes the sound better, I also have a corsa pace car cat back system. Tom
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 12:24 PM
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Yeah, put thread lube on bolts. Going to purchase the ARP header studs today and give them a try.

I told my wife the vette would sound better and not as loud. I have the Borlas quads presently. Hope I gave her good information!

Just need to finish this @#$% header install!
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 03:11 PM
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Just did my dyna techs last month-- I had to get the car up about 28 inches to get drivers side in-- the header bolt issue is delicate- I cross threaded two bolts- lucky I caught it in time and ran a tap thru to clean threads up-- be careful re: thread in by hand and use anti- seize- Insulating the rear O2 sensor wires is still underway as I want to be sure I don't burn thru any- I've ordered some aftermarket insulation to install- hope it does the trick--
Started up car and have experienced no code issues so far Luck to you-
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 03:33 PM
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 04:20 PM
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Howdy!

The header bolts should go in reasonably easy using your fingers - if you get too much resistance, you probably want to back out and try again. It helps if the other person can hold it so that there's very little weight as you run in the bolts.

I bet header studs will be very slick! I almost ordered them when I did mine. If I ever remove and reinstall, I'll go that way as well.

The air tube you just have to carefully bend around until it lines up! You want to get the flanges to meet pretty flush - it's easy for those to leak.

Personally I think when I do my H/C, I think I'll have the headers welded up and remove all the air pump hardware.

FWIW, I did both sides from the top - the drivers side needed the steering input shaft removed (just one bolt) and it squeeked in after lots of twisting and pushing.

I didn't do any thermal wrapping or anything, but I did take a long time tucking and securing the 02 wires.

I used to on occasion get a rear 02 error - usually a code indicating low temp, low efficiency. Not that unusual with high flow cats. I just edited out all the rear 02 codes with HPTuners (since they're just emissions alerts and don't effect the tuning).

I've been pretty happy with my Dynatechs, I've had them well over a year with zero problems, car runs and sounds great.

(If you got the Dynatech catalog, the yellow #26 Z06 in the LS1 section is my car )

Good Luck!
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 04:33 PM
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ive been really happy with mine for the past 4 months. havent had any heat issues either, just the headers starting to turn color. eh no biggie, can barely see them anyway. I may get them coated next winter. if money allows. I just tucked the o2 wires behind the heat shields along teh way. Works fine. I will do a better job of the wrring in there when I pull it apart to install the tunnel plate and insulation. Good luck with the bolts, what happened in my case with the bolts getting stuck along the way was that i had debris in the threads. I just cleaned them up ran a tap through and was good to go again after some grease.
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 04:40 PM
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DPG, good advice on chasing threads to clean them.....

Anyone know the size for the bolt threads?
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by DT
Howdy!

The header bolts should go in reasonably easy using your fingers - if you get too much resistance, you probably want to back out and try again. It helps if the other person can hold it so that there's very little weight as you run in the bolts.

I bet header studs will be very slick! I almost ordered them when I did mine. If I ever remove and reinstall, I'll go that way as well.

The air tube you just have to carefully bend around until it lines up! You want to get the flanges to meet pretty flush - it's easy for those to leak.

Personally I think when I do my H/C, I think I'll have the headers welded up and remove all the air pump hardware.

FWIW, I did both sides from the top - the drivers side needed the steering input shaft removed (just one bolt) and it squeeked in after lots of twisting and pushing.

I didn't do any thermal wrapping or anything, but I did take a long time tucking and securing the 02 wires.

I used to on occasion get a rear 02 error - usually a code indicating low temp, low efficiency. Not that unusual with high flow cats. I just edited out all the rear 02 codes with HPTuners (since they're just emissions alerts and don't effect the tuning).

I've been pretty happy with my Dynatechs, I've had them well over a year with zero problems, car runs and sounds great.

(If you got the Dynatech catalog, the yellow #26 Z06 in the LS1 section is my car )

Good Luck!
Reply
Old Feb 27, 2006 | 04:50 PM
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Sorry, i dont remember the thread on those. ttt for ya on that
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 04:55 PM
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That's got to be a world record for install. Took us MUCH longer.
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 08:05 PM
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I punched four holes in my tunnel plate over the O2 sensors and ran the wires inside the tunnel to keep them away from the heat. Careful routing from the tunnel plate forward will keep them from having a problem.
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Just Enough
I punched four holes in my tunnel plate over the O2 sensors and ran the wires inside the tunnel to keep them away from the heat. Careful routing from the tunnel plate forward will keep them from having a problem.
Anything in close proximity behind the tunnel plate or did you remove to punch the holes?
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 08:25 AM
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I used thermatec self adhesive heat shield liberally when I did mine. Wrapped wires, the clutch hyraulic line the AC lines, anything thats near the headers.
The heat shield is a woven glass fiber mat with foil on one side and adhesive on the other. Works great.
I've had mine on over a year now with no trouble.
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Heretic
I used thermatec self adhesive heat shield liberally when I did mine. Wrapped wires, the clutch hyraulic line the AC lines, anything thats near the headers.
The heat shield is a woven glass fiber mat with foil on one side and adhesive on the other. Works great.
I've had mine on over a year now with no trouble.
Where can I find this heat sheilding at?
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 09:52 AM
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Found it at jegs.com
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