dynatech long tubes
Three freinds and I spent six hours this pass Sunday and we are not complete due to some problems.........
Note: We installed head shield tape around wires near the headers which took some time. Found a lot of the factory plastic loom was brittle and fell off the wires just by touch! If stock exhaust did this ....imagine heat damage from long tubes. We also spent a lot of time getting the car on jack stands in safest possible way about 21 inches off ground.
We got as far as hanging both headers with four bolts.......
Having trouble getting two bolts into each of the heads, they start in but get very tight after a few turns of the head. Could they be cross threading? Any ideas on getting these bolts started? I am using the super maxx bolts supplied for the headers.
We found one spark plug wire to be damaged. It checks out around 750 ohms like the others but it has the wire shield slightly pulled out of the boot. My have to get a new wire?
We got the passenger side header dropped in from the top with out removing the valve cover as in the instructions. Had to move the started and get a little forcefull with the install. I noticed that the air tube flange will not line up flush to the header. Not sure if we just bent the piping when installing the header. Any ideas on this?
Thinking about installing the ARP Header Studs? Did you use these?
Thanks
Piddling with the above discussed plug wire and it just broke? Think we may have yanked on wire instead of boot by mistake during removal of plugs.
Last edited by out2run; Feb 27, 2006 at 12:27 PM.
I told my wife the vette would sound better and not as loud. I have the Borlas quads presently. Hope I gave her good information!
Just need to finish this @#$% header install!
Started up car and have experienced no code issues so far
Luck to you-
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
The header bolts should go in reasonably easy using your fingers - if you get too much resistance, you probably want to back out and try again. It helps if the other person can hold it so that there's very little weight as you run in the bolts.
I bet header studs will be very slick! I almost ordered them when I did mine. If I ever remove and reinstall, I'll go that way as well.
The air tube you just have to carefully bend around until it lines up! You want to get the flanges to meet pretty flush - it's easy for those to leak.
Personally I think when I do my H/C, I think I'll have the headers welded up and remove all the air pump hardware.
FWIW, I did both sides from the top - the drivers side needed the steering input shaft removed (just one bolt) and it squeeked in after lots of twisting and pushing.
I didn't do any thermal wrapping or anything, but I did take a long time tucking and securing the 02 wires.
I used to on occasion get a rear 02 error - usually a code indicating low temp, low efficiency. Not that unusual with high flow cats. I just edited out all the rear 02 codes with HPTuners (since they're just emissions alerts and don't effect the tuning).
I've been pretty happy with my Dynatechs, I've had them well over a year with zero problems, car runs and sounds great.
(If you got the Dynatech catalog, the yellow #26 Z06 in the LS1 section is my car
)Good Luck!




The header bolts should go in reasonably easy using your fingers - if you get too much resistance, you probably want to back out and try again. It helps if the other person can hold it so that there's very little weight as you run in the bolts.
I bet header studs will be very slick! I almost ordered them when I did mine. If I ever remove and reinstall, I'll go that way as well.
The air tube you just have to carefully bend around until it lines up! You want to get the flanges to meet pretty flush - it's easy for those to leak.
Personally I think when I do my H/C, I think I'll have the headers welded up and remove all the air pump hardware.
FWIW, I did both sides from the top - the drivers side needed the steering input shaft removed (just one bolt) and it squeeked in after lots of twisting and pushing.
I didn't do any thermal wrapping or anything, but I did take a long time tucking and securing the 02 wires.
I used to on occasion get a rear 02 error - usually a code indicating low temp, low efficiency. Not that unusual with high flow cats. I just edited out all the rear 02 codes with HPTuners (since they're just emissions alerts and don't effect the tuning).
I've been pretty happy with my Dynatechs, I've had them well over a year with zero problems, car runs and sounds great.
(If you got the Dynatech catalog, the yellow #26 Z06 in the LS1 section is my car
)Good Luck!
The heat shield is a woven glass fiber mat with foil on one side and adhesive on the other. Works great.
I've had mine on over a year now with no trouble.
The heat shield is a woven glass fiber mat with foil on one side and adhesive on the other. Works great.
I've had mine on over a year now with no trouble.














