Torque tube tear down
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,776
Likes: 5
From: Midlothian Texas
St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Torque tube tear down
This next tear down I am going to examaine the torque tube.
I am looking for input on the aluminum solid couplings as well as part numbers for the bearing replacements.
Any school of hard knocks advice would be great as well
I am looking for input on the aluminum solid couplings as well as part numbers for the bearing replacements.
Any school of hard knocks advice would be great as well
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,272
Likes: 223
From: Farmington CT
Cruise-In VII Veteran
englandgreen has the aluminum couplers in his coupe(installed by ECS), car is daily driven; bearing replacement? i've seen something on this in the past, i lost the link
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 2,340
Likes: 854
From: MI
Cruise-In VI Veteran
Originally Posted by Dugmole
This next tear down I am going to examaine the torque tube.
I am looking for input on the aluminum solid couplings as well as part numbers for the bearing replacements.
Any school of hard knocks advice would be great as well
I am looking for input on the aluminum solid couplings as well as part numbers for the bearing replacements.
Any school of hard knocks advice would be great as well
K
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,285
Likes: 16
From: Nashville TN
I installed Lamar Walden couplings in my tube. You might consider the LWA couplings instead of the aluminum couplings. There are pros/cons of either set-up.
Hardest part of the job is removing/re-installing the snap ring. You need a big screw style snap ring tool to remove it and some patience and quick hands to re-install it. Other than that it goes pretty easy. I used a lot of heat to remove the bolts holding in the couplers, they are loctited from the factory. Be sure to use red loctite when re-installing them and torque to spec.
Hardest part of the job is removing/re-installing the snap ring. You need a big screw style snap ring tool to remove it and some patience and quick hands to re-install it. Other than that it goes pretty easy. I used a lot of heat to remove the bolts holding in the couplers, they are loctited from the factory. Be sure to use red loctite when re-installing them and torque to spec.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 719
Likes: 21
From: Miami Fl
any info
guys pm several members on any info they have on replacing the bearings on the torque tube and anything i should do while i am in there. If anyone has any additioanl info please om me of post on this forum.
thanks,
Ralph
thanks,
Ralph
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 4,154
Likes: 1
From: Murphy TX
Cruise-In II Veteran
Originally Posted by marlowchris
Hardest part of the job is removing/re-installing the snap ring. You need a big screw style snap ring tool to remove it and some patience and quick hands to re-install it.
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Former Vendor
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 220
Likes: 0
From: Wixom Michigan
ATI Performance Engineering makes billet aluminum driveshaft couplings (not yet on our website) that replace the weak rubber parts which can rip apart with serious torque.
We have heard some guys just bolt in solid couplings, but our experience has been that it is not that simple. While the couplings will technicaly just bolt in place, the factory driveshaft tolerances are poor (designed for rubber) and the assembly needs to be carefully balanced afterwards.
Solid couplings do cause some driveshaft noise when in neutral with the clutch out. No big deal for a race car. Can't hear it over the exhaust anyways....
For details and pricing please contact Rick Myers at ATI
rmyers@accuratetechnologies.com
We have heard some guys just bolt in solid couplings, but our experience has been that it is not that simple. While the couplings will technicaly just bolt in place, the factory driveshaft tolerances are poor (designed for rubber) and the assembly needs to be carefully balanced afterwards.
Solid couplings do cause some driveshaft noise when in neutral with the clutch out. No big deal for a race car. Can't hear it over the exhaust anyways....
For details and pricing please contact Rick Myers at ATI
rmyers@accuratetechnologies.com
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,353
Likes: 22
From: Bella Vista Ca
Originally Posted by mdhmi
What is the purpose of replacing the couplings? Are the stock couplings a potential reliability concern?
Mark
Mark
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 13,550
Likes: 6
From: Now in God's Country, the Big Sky, Montana!
Cruise-In 7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12
Originally Posted by ATI Performance
ATI Performance Engineering makes billet aluminum driveshaft couplings (not yet on our website) that replace the weak rubber parts which can rip apart with serious torque.
We have heard some guys just bolt in solid couplings, but our experience has been that it is not that simple. While the couplings will technicaly just bolt in place, the factory driveshaft tolerances are poor (designed for rubber) and the assembly needs to be carefully balanced afterwards.
Solid couplings do cause some driveshaft noise when in neutral with the clutch out. No big deal for a race car. Can't hear it over the exhaust anyways....
For details and pricing please contact Rick Myers at ATI
rmyers@accuratetechnologies.com
We have heard some guys just bolt in solid couplings, but our experience has been that it is not that simple. While the couplings will technicaly just bolt in place, the factory driveshaft tolerances are poor (designed for rubber) and the assembly needs to be carefully balanced afterwards.
Solid couplings do cause some driveshaft noise when in neutral with the clutch out. No big deal for a race car. Can't hear it over the exhaust anyways....
For details and pricing please contact Rick Myers at ATI
rmyers@accuratetechnologies.com
Former Vendor
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 220
Likes: 0
From: Wixom Michigan
Originally Posted by mdhmi
What is the purpose of replacing the couplings? Are the stock couplings a potential reliability concern?
Mark
Mark
Former Vendor
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 220
Likes: 0
From: Wixom Michigan
Originally Posted by Cajundude
So you are saying that running two solid billet couplers on the shaft is OK?
The noise is just an annoying rattling vibration only when in neutral with the clutch up. Most likely just gear lash in the transmission. I would dislike it in a daily driven street car, but who cares in a race car.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 5,294
Likes: 2
From: Suffolk, Long Island NY
Originally Posted by ATI Performance
Yes, it is OK if the whole assembly is properly balanced and runout corrected. We have been running this way for 3 years on our race car with no problems.
The noise is just an annoying rattling vibration only when in neutral with the clutch up. Most likely just gear lash in the transmission. I would dislike it in a daily driven street car, but who cares in a race car.
The noise is just an annoying rattling vibration only when in neutral with the clutch up. Most likely just gear lash in the transmission. I would dislike it in a daily driven street car, but who cares in a race car.
Former Vendor
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 220
Likes: 0
From: Wixom Michigan
Originally Posted by Face
So this wouldn't be a issue in a auto unless I was in P or N, correct?
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 13,550
Likes: 6
From: Now in God's Country, the Big Sky, Montana!
Cruise-In 7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12
So, can any driveshaft shop balance the whole assembly or is it something special with the C5 shaft. If the second, how much do you charge to balance?