I have a friend who has a beautiful 2002 (Garage Queen) coupe. Last year when he stored the car for the winter he was told to disconnect the negative side of the battery which he did. In the spring he drove the car to his local service station for his yearly inspection. He was told that it had failed because there was NO DATA ! The attendant told him that because he disconnected the battery he needed to put at least 250 miles on it and then get the car re-inspected. He tried only putting 50 miles on it, brought it back and it failed again. So he then put another 200 miles +, brought it back and it was FINE . The question is has anyone ever experienced this? Is this normal? I have other friends who disconnect their battery and never had this kind of problem ??
Thank You,
Ralph

 

it's normal.you can get the car to set in 15 minutes as long as you hit all the parameters right and the fuel level is at 1/2

 

I went through a similar experience recently when I had to have my '02 emissions-tested due to my recent move to IN.

I had the several tests in the Not Ready mode so I did one driving cycle as prescribed by GM and went straight to the testing station and passed. I didn't even have to go through the exact cycle to get the tests to register correctly. The reason my system readiness was in that condition is that I had to load a previous tune with EFI Live when I drove my car to Indiana when I moved here and hadn't had time to drive it to get the SRT in the correct form for the emissions test. Took all of 15 minutes of driving to get it to pass. Here's the driving cycle I did most of:

General Motors OBD-II driving cycle

• Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start, the engine coolant temperature must be
below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at start-up. Do not
leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

• Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear
defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater,
Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.

• Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until
88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics
will be performed.

• Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time
the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

• Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift or touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

• Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same
diagnostics as in step 3.

• Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be
performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5
complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.

• Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or
brakes or shift gears.

 

I had no idea there was such a problem forcing the computer, to
spit out codes for the Illinois diagnostic.

 

Do any non PCM codes cause a failure at the emissions station ?

 

I don't believe so.

Any code that would cause the car to fail emissions should set off the check engine light.

 

If you have HP tuners you can pass emissions ASAP. Also you can see if your car is ready for said emissions tests.

Set up a bin and set all DTEs to "no error reported." Leave SES on.

Immediately upon upload of the new bin, check with you scanner to see if you are ready in all areas. You should be.

l8r.