i hate to say it but its time for the 60,000 service need info on wuts the best spark plugs n wires for a 2000 c5 drop top auto????

 

You are reading my mind and I have the same question. I have heard that you should change the plugs to make sure they do not stick to the aluminum. Cheep assurance.

I just got back from the local parts store. Went in to get replacement AC 41-952. Ac has changed the part number to 41-932. I am trying to find out if this is the correct one before I place them in the meca of spark plug holes.

 

I have heard that changing the plugs is a real PITA. There is one that is almost impossible. I would like to change mine but think I better get a garage to do it. If you learn any tricks let me know.

Ron

 

It was raining so I changed mine just today. I have an '04 Z06 and I used the NGK TR55 IX iridiums. The new GM spec is below and calls for iridium plugs. I bought mine at Checker for $6.98 a piece.

Tips and tricks? HAH! Good luck getting the wires off the plug. This was the most difficult part of the job for me. Wear your mechanics gloves when you can. I had to take my gloves off several times to get some of the wires off, but I only ended up with one tiny cut on my left first finger.

Make sure the engine is cold. Aluminum and steel don't mate well at different temps. Besides, you'll burn your hand on the manifold if it's hot.

The stock wires are just as good as any, so don't waste your money on after-market wires with a stock engine.

I had a hell of a time getting the plug wire off the plug closest to the firewall on the driver's side. Do that one first and the rest will seem easy. I had to take the hose loose for the brake vacuum assist and the tube that goes to the air box, just to get my hand in there. Those two items aren't hard to remove, but getting the plug wire off is. There's not a lot of room to get your hand in there. Don't forget to hook the hoses back up when you're done.

I would suggest doing the driver's side first. Then the others don't seem so bad.

I pulled the plug wires off the coils also, and that made it easier for me, but it's probably not necessary.

When removing the plug wire, don't just pull on the red plug wire or you'll pull it off the end connector! It's ok to pull on the black part sticking out of the metal shield. That's the plug wire socket. It's about an inch in diameter. Give it a twist first and it will come loose easier. Then wiggle it back and forth/up and down while pulling on it. Grunting and cussing seems to help a lot here.

I pulled all the wires first because I like to do the hardest part first. My fingers were killing me by the time I got them all off. You can't mix the wires up, the coil is directly above each plug. If you get them crossed, then you are a complete moron.

At first, I was trying to get the plug wire off the plug by pulling on the metal shield, and when I finally got the first plug wire off the plug, I realized the metal shield and the plug wire are two separate items. The black rubber part that you can see sticking out of the shield is the socket part of the plug wire, and easier to grab than the metal shield. You can pull on the shield too if that seems easier to you, but the black part is the plug socket itself and that's what needs to come off. Just don't pull on the red wire our you'll fubar the plug wire. Make sure you pull only on the black plug socket or the metal shield.

When loosening the plug I used a 4" extension and ratchet. Make sure you have the spark plug socket fully pushed onto the plug, and support the wratchet with one hand while turning with the other so you don't break the plug off. I suggest wearing gloves for this part, to save your knuckles and avoid cuts.

Once you've loosened the plug with the wrench, you can remove the ratchet and use just the extension to back the plug out by hand.

Use a little di-electric grease on the plug wire where it slides over the plug, so it will come off easier next time.

Use a little dab of anti-seize compound on the plug threads so they won't seize up next time.

You can check the plug gap but it is set at the factory, so don't re-gap it if it's wrong, buy another plug. (See below) I didn't even bother checking mine with a feeler gauge. I eyeballed them and they looked fine.

Start the new plug by hand with just the extension, and don't over-tighten with the ratchet. Good and snug, then just a little more is fine. Again, support the ratchet with one hand and tighten with the other so you don't break the plug off.

Good luck... have fun... play safe.

Here's the new GM plug spec...

Spark Plug: Technical Service Bulletins Ignition System - New Spark Plug Type/Gapping
Bulletin No.: 03-06-04-060
Date: October 24, 2003
INFORMATION
Subject:
Information on New Spark Plugs and Gapping
Models:
2004 Buick Ranier
2002-2004 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT
2003-2004 Cadillac Escalade ESV 2004 Cadillac CTS-V
1997-2004 Chevrolet Corvette
1998-2002 Chevrolet Camaro
1999-2004 Chevrolet Silverado
2000-2004 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe
2002-2004 Chevrolet Avalanche
2003-2004 Chevrolet Express, TrailBlazer
1999-2004 CMC Sierra
2000-2004 CMC Yukon, Yukon XL
2001-2004 CMC Yukon Denali, Yukon XL Denali
2002-2004 CMC Sierra Denali
2003-2004 CMC Envoy XL
1998-2002 Pontiac Firebird
2004 Pontiac GTO
2003-2004 Hummer H2
with 4.8L, 5.3L, 5.7L or 6.0L V-8 Engine (VINs V, P, T, Z, G, S, N, U - RPOs LR4, LM4, LM7, L59, LSI, LS6, LQ9, LQ4)
A new spark plug has been released for use in the above vehicles. The new spark plug has an Iridium tip instead of the current Platinum tip. Due to the different tip design, the gap of the spark plug has also changed. The new spark plug, P/N 12571164 with AC Delco P/N 41-985, is gapped to 1.01 mm (0.040 inches) when the spark plug is made. The spark plug gap is set during manufacturing and should not be changed or damage to the spark plug may result. Any new spark plug found to not be properly gapped should not be used.

 

Its only hard to change out if you have Paul Bunyon hands!

 

Great Info thanks. Really appreciate it. You only learn that stuff with trial and error.
Ron

 

UVETTYA,

Very comprehensive in your descriptions of changing the plugs.

Several of us had quite the discussion at the parts store yesterday about the new plugs GM was using.

The parts guy said that the 41-985 was a colder plug. Physically, the plug is a bit longer than the 932 which replaced the 952. The difference seemed to be about 1/8th of an inch. Do you know the piston distance from the plug? That was my biggest problem at that time.

Prior to coming to the forum, I went to the AC Delco web site. The listing of the vehicles now using the 985 is similar to the one you posted. So I will go with the new 985.

Again thanks for the help.

 

NGK TR-55's part #3951, about $16 at Advance, change them every year, not a difficult job

 

 

DUDE! With all honesty I can say this...You ROCK!

 

Grunting and cussing seems to help a lot here.
I found that the best line to use while cussing and grunting was " Son of a F*****g B**** !!" Screaming this while pulling and wiggling will help you get that plug wire off a lot quicker

 

Thanks for the compliments on the DIY writeup guys. Made it worth the time it took to type it. Just paying back all the good tips I've gotten here myself.

 

That's my favorite! Gives you three good pulls.

 

best plugs are NGK TR55s