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From: Overwhelmed as one would be, placed in my position.... DFW, TX
St. Jude Donor '05
Lowering concerns...
I was reading the post below (the one on alignment and lowering) and I noticed something- you guys are lowering your car using the ride height bolts. Well hell, this seems simple enough! Is it really this easy? I looked at the techtips section, but this looks like a hit-and-miss proposition- what with cutting the bushings and all. How much does it lower the car if I follow the techtips method? Are their any strange wear concerns (aside from the fact that my car will now be 1"+ lower to road obsticles? )
Basically, the car need to be aligned anyway, so why not lower it and kill two birds with one stone?
Yup. It's that simple. I didn't cut bushings, got a nice amount of drop out of it (1/2 up front and 3/4 in back). Looks good, no odd wear on the tires, and its not so low that it drags the spoiler every where I go. Took me about 2.5 hours, but I detailed the entire suspension while the wheels were off the car (they say you don't have to take them off, but it was easier).
:cool:
With the bushings cut, the rear may end up too low for the front & change the "stance" of the car... I found the ride rougher with the rear bushings cut & ended up ordering the longer bolts & putting the bushings back in.
Get the front where you want it & the rear is easy to adjust and/or cut the bushings later.
From: Overwhelmed as one would be, placed in my position.... DFW, TX
St. Jude Donor '05
Re: Lowering concerns... (goldman)
Without cutting the bushings? How do you lower the back without doing this? Is there a gap between the bushing and bolt that allows you to crank it down without cutting the bushing? Similar to the front? Thanks guys! (Pics would be great, btw)
Can I get the car lowered without using a lift? I'm about to get new tires, put on, and I'm getting a lower profile set, so I want to lower the car so it doesn't look funny.
The easyest thing to do to lower the rear is buy 2 grade 8 1/2-13 X 6 in. long bolts and 2 1/2-13 Nylock nuts, plus 4 1/2 in. flat washers. Should be less than $10. These replace the stock bolts, washers, and nuts. The stock bolts are 6 in. long, but do not have threads the last inch or so, which limits their adjustment range. With these you don't have to cut the bushings and can easily return to stock. The 6 in. bolts on my Z51 dropped the rear 2 inches, which is plenty. To raise the rear back up, simply tighten the nut. Make sure you're supporting the rear of the car by the rear crossmember when you remove the bolts. It may also have to jack up (with a wood block) each side of the rear leaf spring to keep the holes alligned. If you've planned this ahead of time, you might want to paint the new parts to prevent rust.
I used the lowering bolts on the rear (did not cut bushings)...did not lower all the way. Maybe 1-1/2". We cut 2 of the 3 bushings on the front and lowered all the way. It is hard to get the front to drop. It looks really good now. I love it. Not to mention it will hold the road like glue!!!
From: Overwhelmed as one would be, placed in my position.... DFW, TX
St. Jude Donor '05
Re: Lowering concerns... (vette-crazy)
When you say you used the lowering bolts, are you referring to the lowering kit offered in the mall?
Basically I'm looking for about an inch all around. I don't like the looks of the car with the back lowered more than the front. Can this drop (1 inch) be done without the kit?
A 1" drop can be achieved without the longer bolts easily, but unfortunately you are limited by the front to maybe 3/4". You can trim the bushings to achieve more drop if necessary
From: Buy USA products! Check the label! Employ Americans
Re: Lowering concerns... (bwhitmore)
I race my car hard and it holds the road with anything. I don't recommend cutting the bushings. The car will be so low the bump stops will hit and it will be impractical to drive. Lower it and if you like it align it to ZO6 spec's. Be warned I have drove 50,000 miles and about 40,000 lowered then in 10 days I hit both rocker panels :eek: it cost 650 to repair them soon :mad . If you go all the way in the back the car will be to low compared to the front. It will change the rake of the car and you will lose suction from under the car at high speeds like over 140. I left two threads in the back and two in the front adjustment and it's pretty low. :cheers: Enjoy!
I'm thinking of lowering my car too, but only mildly, perhaps ½" all the way around. What types of ride changes can I expect from doing this aside the improved handling? Will the ride get noticably harsher with the car being lowered? Based on what I have read here a change of only ½" shouldn't require be to change bolts or cut bushings.
Umrswimr, I had lowered my 99 H/T according to the directions on the forum....
It was easy, and looked great... HOWEVER...
Everytime I hit a heavier bump, the suspension would bottom out
with a resounding WHAM.
In my mind's eye I could see the halfshafts being pounded into the
differential. That was enough for me, and I reset the height immediately.
From: Overwhelmed as one would be, placed in my position.... DFW, TX
St. Jude Donor '05
Re: Lowering concerns... (steve badalamenti)
Wow. Anybody else have this problem?
In other news- I lowered it 5/8" all the way around last night. Basically cranked the front all the way down (until the bolt wouldn't turn any more). This left about 1/8" between the control arm and the leaf spring. The back was a little more fun. We went to wrong way the first time (talk about funny looking. Take the "wedge" shape to a whole new level!) After we figered out it was wrong, we cranked it until the nut had about a thread left at the top. This gave almost exactly 5/8" in the back as well.
The ride seems a little firmer now, and the plastic/rubber air dam is going to see a little more use in the future. <grin>
Now the questions: Anybody have similar problems to the ones steve described? Additionally, how is it that the suspension is firmer now? I was looking at it last night and I can't figure out why this would yield a firmer ride. (the height adjustment doesn't really change the spring deflection angle when it's weighted), it just brings the control arms closer to the body of the car....
Anyway, thanks for all your help/advice yesterday. It really was quite simple!
I lowered mine according to "G MAN" post on the forum. :yesnod: Oh what I feelin :D what a ride :D :D I cut the bushings in the rear and added one back to the bottom Just for the hell of it. :D :D Very simple You gotta try it to experience it. :cheers:
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