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How to install Dynamxx headers from top?

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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 04:53 PM
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Default How to install Dynamxx headers from top?

What are you guys doing to get these headers in from the top? Are you loosening the motor mounts? And can you even tilt or raise the motor with it being a solid conection to the rear differential?
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 06:17 PM
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UPDATE: OK, I have losen the the nuts for the rear differential, and taken the two motor mount nuts off. I got the motor up as far as it will go. Taken lose the steering shaft, and taken off the oil sending unit above the filter, and it still won't go. I don't see how you guys have done it from the top.

Last edited by RED99; Mar 25, 2006 at 07:47 PM.
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 07:58 PM
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When i installed my kooks on the driver's side the motor was jacked up the steering shaft was uncoupled, the alternater was unbolted and pushed aside, the powerbrake booster was unbolted and we still had to remove the oil filter to get them to "drop" in. It was like helping a cow give birth, ya just gotta yank! 4 hours start to finish with a lift and a good helper. Best of Luck
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 08:14 PM
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Well I gave up from doing it from the top. Then I thought, what the heck, try it from the bottom with it just on the rhino ramps. I tried it and it looked close. So I went and raise the side of the motor up since I already had it lose and the mount undone and it went in. From what all the post I read, you needed to have the car up like 2 feet to do it from the bottom. But raising the motor some lets it slide right on up.
Now for the passenger side with the motor raised. I am hoping I won't have to drop the starter by doing that.
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 12:31 AM
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Are you doing Dynatech Supermaxx Lt headers? If so, the driver side installs from the BOTTOM, and the Passenger side installs from the TOP. Follow the instructions and it's not bad - LS 1 How to has a good article on it also.

On the Passenger side, remove the starter, BUT once the header is slipped into place, reinstall the starter and tighten the starter mount bolts BEFORE you tighten the header into place .
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 94legaleagle
Are you doing Dynatech Supermaxx Lt headers? If so, the driver side installs from the BOTTOM, and the Passenger side installs from the TOP. Follow the instructions and it's not bad - LS 1 How to has a good article on it also.

On the Passenger side, remove the starter, BUT once the header is slipped into place, reinstall the starter and tighten the starter mount bolts BEFORE you tighten the header into place .

Exactly, I didn't have to jack up the motor to install the Dynamaxx set. And I do all my header & exhaust installs on the floor without a lift.

-=Rick
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 11:03 AM
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I just installed my Supermaxx kit from the top. On the driver side (the side they suggest you do from the bottom), I removed the alternator, unbolted the steering shaft (1 bolt in front of that plastic cone on the shaft) and pulled it UP and OVER towards the wheel. Remove the valve cover and spark plugs, and pull the A.I.R. tubing junk out of the way. That was all I needed to drop it in from the top. I didn't need to remove the oil filter/housing or jack up the motor. It DOES take a little shoving/sliding to get it in, but nothing dramatic.

On the passenger side, I removed the valve cover, plugs, and LOOSENED the starter (took just one bolt off so it would swing a little out of the way), and dropped it in from the top.

Good luck!

Last edited by chimazo; Mar 26, 2006 at 11:06 AM.
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by chimazo
I just installed my Supermaxx kit from the top. On the driver side (the side they suggest you do from the bottom), I removed the alternator, unbolted the steering shaft (1 bolt in front of that plastic cone on the shaft) and pulled it UP and OVER towards the wheel. Remove the valve cover and spark plugs, and pull the A.I.R. tubing junk out of the way. That was all I needed to drop it in from the top. I didn't need to remove the oil filter/housing or jack up the motor. It DOES take a little shoving/sliding to get it in, but nothing dramatic.

On the passenger side, I removed the valve cover, plugs, and LOOSENED the starter (took just one bolt off so it would swing a little out of the way), and dropped it in from the top.

Good luck!
I did all of that on the driver side, and it still would not go. The header was hitting the oil filter housing and the brake booster. Anyway, it slides right in from the bottom with just on the rhino ramps if I raise the motor a little, (which is very easy). I will losen the starter up and try the other side today. I want to be sure these slide easy so I don't scratch up the ceramic coating after I get them coated. Also I am trying to figure out where to weld the o2 bungs. Looks like the only place is going to be a couple inches from the bungs already welded on the header, and get it right next to the flange.
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 11:43 AM
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Red,
I wouldn't install them the way I did, either, if I had ceramic coating on them!
Why are you having bungs welded on? You don't have the kit with the X-pipe, etc?
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by chimazo
Red,
I wouldn't install them the way I did, either, if I had ceramic coating on them!
Why are you having bungs welded on? You don't have the kit with the X-pipe, etc?
Yes I do have the kit with the X-pipe. But I want to install a dedicated bung for a LC-1 wide band and use a XD-16 air/fuel meter. So I want to do a trial install before welding, and then ceramic coating. I may want to monitor both sides later, so I will just go ahead and weld a bung on each header, and just cap one side off for the time being. But it will have it ready for future upgrade if I decide to go that route.
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