Changing Power Steering Fluid
Racer
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 446
Likes: 0
From: ft. Worth tx.
I ran the engine with the p/s lines off.Put the new p/s fluid in a large reservoir,in this case a gallon jug of new fluid (suction line) ,old fluid went to anther reservoir ( return line) & discarded it.Put the lines back in filled up the p/s reservoir with new semi syn. fluid + added a bottle of lubegard p/s steering additive.No problems in over a year,fairly quick & easy + all fluid replaced.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,993
Likes: 61
From: Fort Wayne IN
I used the "turkey baster" approach. Sumped what I could, drove it a while and sumped it again. Did that several times and went through about a quart of fluid. Not clear yet but much better than what it was. 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,251
Likes: 4
Probably not a good idea to run it dry. I could be wrong here but...
What I've done is turkey baster the res. and disconnect the return line from the res and run the line down under the car to a bucket. Cap the return port on the res. Lift the front end and turn the steering wheel from lock to lock until empty. Add fluid and keep turning the wheels, run a bottle of fluid thru the system. Reconnect the lines and refill the res. tank. Do all this with the engine OFF.
Once you refill it, turn the wheel lock to lock until no more fluid needs to be added. Now start the engine and continue to turn wheels lock to lock and top off the fluid. Lower front end and you're done. You may hear some air in the system but it will self bleed quickly enough.
This will purge just about all the fluid. The GM fluid is $7. I'm not sold on Valvoline PS fluid. The cars I've added it to have all made noise in the rack. I drained and refilled with stock fluid and noise went away. After it happend twice I felt it was no coincidence. Some guys like though.
IQ
What I've done is turkey baster the res. and disconnect the return line from the res and run the line down under the car to a bucket. Cap the return port on the res. Lift the front end and turn the steering wheel from lock to lock until empty. Add fluid and keep turning the wheels, run a bottle of fluid thru the system. Reconnect the lines and refill the res. tank. Do all this with the engine OFF.
Once you refill it, turn the wheel lock to lock until no more fluid needs to be added. Now start the engine and continue to turn wheels lock to lock and top off the fluid. Lower front end and you're done. You may hear some air in the system but it will self bleed quickly enough.
This will purge just about all the fluid. The GM fluid is $7. I'm not sold on Valvoline PS fluid. The cars I've added it to have all made noise in the rack. I drained and refilled with stock fluid and noise went away. After it happend twice I felt it was no coincidence. Some guys like though.
IQ
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,345
Likes: 231
From: SoCal
Originally Posted by IM QUIKR
Probably not a good idea to run it dry. I could be wrong here but...
What I've done is turkey baster the res. and disconnect the return line from the res and run the line down under the car to a bucket. Cap the return port on the res. Lift the front end and turn the steering wheel from lock to lock until empty. Add fluid and keep turning the wheels, run a bottle of fluid thru the system. Reconnect the lines and refill the res. tank. Do all this with the engine OFF.
Once you refill it, turn the wheel lock to lock until no more fluid needs to be added. Now start the engine and continue to turn wheels lock to lock and top off the fluid. Lower front end and you're done. You may hear some air in the system but it will self bleed quickly enough.
This will purge just about all the fluid. The GM fluid is $7. I'm not sold on Valvoline PS fluid. The cars I've added it to have all made noise in the rack. I drained and refilled with stock fluid and noise went away. After it happend twice I felt it was no coincidence. Some guys like though.
IQ
What I've done is turkey baster the res. and disconnect the return line from the res and run the line down under the car to a bucket. Cap the return port on the res. Lift the front end and turn the steering wheel from lock to lock until empty. Add fluid and keep turning the wheels, run a bottle of fluid thru the system. Reconnect the lines and refill the res. tank. Do all this with the engine OFF.
Once you refill it, turn the wheel lock to lock until no more fluid needs to be added. Now start the engine and continue to turn wheels lock to lock and top off the fluid. Lower front end and you're done. You may hear some air in the system but it will self bleed quickly enough.
This will purge just about all the fluid. The GM fluid is $7. I'm not sold on Valvoline PS fluid. The cars I've added it to have all made noise in the rack. I drained and refilled with stock fluid and noise went away. After it happend twice I felt it was no coincidence. Some guys like though.
IQ
DH
Racer
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 446
Likes: 0
From: ft. Worth tx.
With the method I used you never let it run dry either.Its similar to whats done in transhops when they replace fluid in your trans.You don't have any cloudy fluid left.The only difference here is the half or gallon bottle that has the new fluid becomes your reservoir.The lubegard can convert any GM/Ford recomended fluid to exceed GM specs, & meet the much more stringent Honda spec.I used the syn-power & never had a problem & it meets GM specs.
I just hooked hoses back up & refilled the res.& the fluid looked brand new & all is assured replaced using this method ,the kitchen baister I use only to replace my brake reservoir fluid every 6 mos. or so.It'll never remove all of the P/S fluid though.
I just hooked hoses back up & refilled the res.& the fluid looked brand new & all is assured replaced using this method ,the kitchen baister I use only to replace my brake reservoir fluid every 6 mos. or so.It'll never remove all of the P/S fluid though.
Last edited by geocor2003; Mar 29, 2006 at 03:04 AM.
