Engine Carbon Removal
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 752
Likes: 1
From: Tulsa OK
GM Top End Cleaner works great and you can do it yourself - the instructions on the can are pretty clear.
Start the car and let it warm up.
Disconnect the PCV hose from the intake manifold on the passenger side just behind the throttle body.
Install a piece of hose to the manifold tube and insert a funnel in the other end. Hang the funnel from something under the hood and apply a clamp to the hose to restrict the flow of the cleaner into the engine to a slow rate - kind of like an IV drip you see on medical shows. A vise grip works well.
Start pouring the cleaner into the funnel and the vacuum from the engine will slowly pull it in. Don't go so fast that you stall the engine. It took about 10-15 minutes to get a can in at idle. The engine will lope and run rough which is about the correct rate of fluid.
When the cleaner is almost all used up, do a quick dump to stall the engine and then let it sit four about an hour minimum - over night is better.
After the wait, start her up and watch the smoke. I was too embarrassed to stay in my neighborhood so I took it out on the highway to blow it out. The smoke cleared after about five to ten miles. It really looks bad though when you first get going.
The rear end was covered with black soot and carbon from the draft. I couldn't believe how much junk blew out of a motor with 22K on it.
Have fun.
Start the car and let it warm up.
Disconnect the PCV hose from the intake manifold on the passenger side just behind the throttle body.
Install a piece of hose to the manifold tube and insert a funnel in the other end. Hang the funnel from something under the hood and apply a clamp to the hose to restrict the flow of the cleaner into the engine to a slow rate - kind of like an IV drip you see on medical shows. A vise grip works well.
Start pouring the cleaner into the funnel and the vacuum from the engine will slowly pull it in. Don't go so fast that you stall the engine. It took about 10-15 minutes to get a can in at idle. The engine will lope and run rough which is about the correct rate of fluid.
When the cleaner is almost all used up, do a quick dump to stall the engine and then let it sit four about an hour minimum - over night is better.
After the wait, start her up and watch the smoke. I was too embarrassed to stay in my neighborhood so I took it out on the highway to blow it out. The smoke cleared after about five to ten miles. It really looks bad though when you first get going.
The rear end was covered with black soot and carbon from the draft. I couldn't believe how much junk blew out of a motor with 22K on it.
Have fun.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,345
Likes: 232
From: SoCal
Originally Posted by EStreeter
GM Top End Cleaner works great and you can do it yourself - the instructions on the can are pretty clear.
Start the car and let it warm up.
Disconnect the PCV hose from the intake manifold on the passenger side just behind the throttle body.
Install a piece of hose to the manifold tube and insert a funnel in the other end. Hang the funnel from something under the hood and apply a clamp to the hose to restrict the flow of the cleaner into the engine to a slow rate - kind of like an IV drip you see on medical shows. A vise grip works well.
Start pouring the cleaner into the funnel and the vacuum from the engine will slowly pull it in. Don't go so fast that you stall the engine. It took about 10-15 minutes to get a can in at idle. The engine will lope and run rough which is about the correct rate of fluid.
When the cleaner is almost all used up, do a quick dump to stall the engine and then let it sit four about an hour minimum - over night is better.
After the wait, start her up and watch the smoke. I was too embarrassed to stay in my neighborhood so I took it out on the highway to blow it out. The smoke cleared after about five to ten miles. It really looks bad though when you first get going.
The rear end was covered with black soot and carbon from the draft. I couldn't believe how much junk blew out of a motor with 22K on it.
Have fun.
Start the car and let it warm up.
Disconnect the PCV hose from the intake manifold on the passenger side just behind the throttle body.
Install a piece of hose to the manifold tube and insert a funnel in the other end. Hang the funnel from something under the hood and apply a clamp to the hose to restrict the flow of the cleaner into the engine to a slow rate - kind of like an IV drip you see on medical shows. A vise grip works well.
Start pouring the cleaner into the funnel and the vacuum from the engine will slowly pull it in. Don't go so fast that you stall the engine. It took about 10-15 minutes to get a can in at idle. The engine will lope and run rough which is about the correct rate of fluid.
When the cleaner is almost all used up, do a quick dump to stall the engine and then let it sit four about an hour minimum - over night is better.
After the wait, start her up and watch the smoke. I was too embarrassed to stay in my neighborhood so I took it out on the highway to blow it out. The smoke cleared after about five to ten miles. It really looks bad though when you first get going.
The rear end was covered with black soot and carbon from the draft. I couldn't believe how much junk blew out of a motor with 22K on it.
Have fun.
DH
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,156
Likes: 2
From: Arlington VA
Carbon buildup in modern engines is a fact. Gasoline additives create carbon deposits on the backs on the intake valves and on the tops of pistons creating rough idle, stalling, hesitation, hard starting, etc. I have heard the GM Top End Cleaner works well but the procedure sounds involved. Do what I do and that is do regular carbon depletion maintenance with a fuel additive designed to reduce carbon buildup. I use BG 44K every 7500 MI or once per year. I have also heard this product does wonders for some of the piston slap issues inherent in the LS series motors. Chevron Techron is another product I hear does a good job at removing carbon.
Good shops use stronger chemicals and machines to clean carbon deposits. This is called a carbon depletion service and it is real. They are not just taking your money. If you run the 44K on a regular basis, there should be no need to have the more expensive carbon depletion service performed.
Good shops use stronger chemicals and machines to clean carbon deposits. This is called a carbon depletion service and it is real. They are not just taking your money. If you run the 44K on a regular basis, there should be no need to have the more expensive carbon depletion service performed.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 0
From: Fort Worth Texas
Yes, it is somewhat common to have the engine de-carb'd. Most people do it themselves with either GM Top Cleaner or SeaFoam. It usually gets rid of pinging / detonation and restores lost power.
Never heard of it being offered from a dealer though!
Never heard of it being offered from a dealer though!
