I was driving home and just driving less than 8 miles the DIC display a message indicating high engine temperature and gave off 4 chimes. The coolant temperature was up to 260F. I pulled over and checked for steam. No steam. I opened the hood and no steam. The coolant recovery had stuff in it. I checked the front of the radiator and nothing was blocking it there. I checked the hand manual and did as instructed. Reset DIC, run heater on high. I let it cool down to 190 and started it up. It ran for about a mile at about 194 then it started rising. I pulled over at 250. I had it towed to the nearest Chevy dealer. Does anyone have any insight or experience with this? The car has been flawless up till now.

BTW the outside temperature was 70 Degrees, and not much stop and go driving.

2001 Coupe 4,500 Miles.

 

Even though you had coolant in the reservoir it is still possible that you are low on coolant in the engine orHave a blockage in your cooling system such as a pinched hose or a blocked passage in the engine. Check cooland level and if there is any indication of low levels have dealer pressure test system for leaks.It is also possible that you have a defective thermostat that is not opening up when it is supposed to . The latter is a more likely problem. Another item that needs to be checked is the water pump. If that is not functioning you will overheat big time. Also, make sure you are using at least 33% or more coolant (Dextron).I am assuming that you have checked to make sure your fans are operating. If they are not you may have a bad relay.This is not uncommon.Didn't your car go into limp home mode? It should have.Last but not least, if coolant is being lost and no apparent leak can be found coolant can be lost by a crack in the block, a blown head gasket, a crack in the cylinder head and a few other rather rare ills. I am hoping it is something minor and usually it is.


[Modified by sandyg, 12:18 AM 8/22/2001]

 

Anything we might offer based on the information you have provided is just guessing.

It could be something simple like debris blocking the radiator. Or it could be a bit more involved, like a failed water pump, head gasket, non working fans, etc.

 

Even though you had coolant in the reservoir it is still possible that you are low on coolant in the engine orHave a blockage in your cooling system such as a pinched hose or a blocked passage in the engine. Check cooland level and if there is any indication of low levels have dealer pressure test system for leaks.It is also possible that you have a defective thermostat that is not opening up when it is supposed to . The latter is a more likely problem. Another item that needs to be checked is the water pump. If that is not functioning you will overheat big time. Also, make sure you are using at least 33% or more coolant (Dextron).I am assuming that you have checked to make sure your fans are operating. If they are not you may have a bad relay.This is not uncommon.Didn't your car go into limp home mode? It should have.Last but not least, if coolant is being lost and no apparent leak can be found coolant can be lost by a crack in the block, a blown head gasket, a crack in the cylinder head and a few other rather rare ills.Whatever you do, don't drive it when it is overheated or you can cause some of the above problems. You can drive it in for repair if you play close attention to the temperature and shut her down giving her time to cool before proceding. I am hoping it is something minor and usually it is.

 

Hopefully this isn't your cause, unfortunately it was mine. A small flaw in the top of the radiator housing allowed air to enter the radiator and the resulting vacuum blockage resulted in the flow of coolant to be restricted. I had expected this to have been a simple thermostat issue and hadn't planned for the PITA it became. Regardless of the cause you should give consideration to changing fluids after she's run that hot for any appreciable period of time.

 

Did you check to see if that flap (under the front bumper) that directs air over the radiator is functioning? Good luck.

Jerry

 

On my LPE TT mine was the 1st Z06 done and with the larger bar and them(LPE) routing the fan wires between the bar and radiator every harsh corner lots of em caused the insulation to eat away until I grounded out and blew the 35 amp fuse.My car is now at AZ. Speed and Marine new 172 T-stat and bleeding of system since I oncce again re-routed the wires at night on rhino rampsand basic hand tools there going to install the wiring in a more proffesional way and I think bleeding is the major problem.
Ive seen some expensive motors ruined by bad caps alone so who knows.Im hoppinng to drive around town @ 205 and stay below 240 @ the track putting out alot of full power stuff for 1 hour at a time.
Hows your oil temp been I have an integral one built into my radiator and there always identical 230 coolant 230 oil temp.
But backwash the system bleed it check your caps and T-stats my warranty governs my pcm fancontroller which im not sure but I think it can simply be set at the DIC.
Overheating is frustrating when your looking at a otherwise healthy motor give em time theyll fix it and do it right.Good Luck David S.PS
I wish I had the patience I preach.Dave

 

I picked up the car from the dealer. All covered under warrantee. They said they "found leak from hose to throttle body. Pulled off hose & checked for cracks, none found, hose ok, replaced both hose clamps, pressure tested, no leaks"
Yesterday when had this problem and looked under the hood I saw and hear nothing to indicate coolant leakage. When the flatbed came to pick it up, there was no coolant on the ground, none on the flatbed when we delivered it to the dealer. Seems strange to me.