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Just a quick question, why not follow the PIAA diagram? Thats what i used to wire up my PIAA fogs and they work great. They splice into the fog relay at the fuse box as the trigger wire then to a relay and the power off the power post of the fuse box and then running power and ground wires off the lights themselves. The switch itself is a simple plug and play. The wiring is already there. Just unplug your old trunk switch and plug in your new switch.
The switch will just plug into the existing wiring harnes. The relay is already in the fuse box in the engine compartment. #39 I think. Not sure what exactly you will need, but I'm pretty sure it is just getting a wiring harness, routing it and hooking it up. You could even use a PIAA harness and hook it up the same way as the PIAAs. Its pretty simple, take the neg from the lights ground point and the positive to the purple wire on the #39 relay. I don't think you will find an exact writeup, but take a look at the PIAA write ups, it will tell you a lot.
Thanks guys. I was looking at the PIAA wiring and they supply another relay in addition to the stock relay. Do I need an additional relay? I don't want to purchase any more parts than I need. I was also wanting to know if the high beams will shut the fogs off
If you got factory lights with factory plugs they should plug right into the factory harness with no modifications or other parts needed. You may need the thread inserts to mount the light because I don't think they come installed if the car didn't come with fog lights. The switch is a direct swap with no modifications needed.
You don't need another relay. All you need is a lead from the relay block and a ground. Search the archives- I wrote this up a few months ago.
not trying to be smartass or anything. just curious. Wouldnt you need a 2nd relay, meaning to take that stock relay wire adn using it as a trigger wire for your own relay and hooking it up according. I wouldnt think that the stock relay wire that you can splice into would give enough power. Or you can fry the wiring. I thought you could fry wiring like that.
Dave
The stock fog lamps use relay 39 for power . It's already there on the relay panel but not used for anything else. Also, the wiring from the relay to the switch connector is there also. Fuse 6 is also there, unused. All you need to do is run the hot lead from the fuse to the lights. If you have a service manual, it is pretty self-evident from the schematic. I got some of the "GM metric" pin ends and went into the fuse block underhood at E4 just like the OEM setup. btw, you'll also need the bulb sockets if you don't have them. Oh, and also the nut clip things to hold the mounting bolts.
I've already got them mounted with the sockets attached. Just wasn't sure where to run the wires without burning everthing. While I've got your attention, will there be any problems with the relay going from the stock 31 W lamps to 50 W?
Stock relay should be OK. The fuse is a 10 amp, so good design practice would be to specify a relay that can handle at least 10 amps. This equates to 1200 watts The current surge at startup for a cold bulb can be fairly high, but only very breifly. I used Sylvania Silver Stars in mine with no problems.