Still troubleshooting the "Start Up & Die" problem.

No Codes, No DIC messages.

I had corrected the only 2 PCM codes relating to low voltage of the IAT sensor, which I replaced.

Intermittently, the car will Start-Up and then Die, seemingly due to fuel / ignition cut-off.

I replaced the ignition switch and retained the OE cylinder & keys.

The steering column lock is functioning normally. (I have H/C with a custom PCM tune, so haven't done the recall or installed a CLB, since there are no codes and no DIC messages.)

I'm going through all of the grounds, but so far, the likely suspects are totally clean. This is a So. CA car.

This is an MN6 and I thought to check / change is the neutral switch under the clutch pedal. Since the engine will turn over and want's to run, I'm assuming that this switch is functional.

The only other thing I can think of to try is to see if the pellets are wasted on my keys. I've tried the 2 that I have and neither one seems to be any better at consistently starting the car than the other.

With No Codes, No DIC messages and grounds that seem to be checking out OK, this is really beginning to puzzle me. I was thinking that the problem would have been something simple to diagnose & fix.

Can pellets on the PASS-KEY be replaced? This may be the next thing that I do to rule-out as a possible problem.

Any other suggestions?

 

The pellet cannot be replaced but you take key to dealer and from that they can sell you a new one that matches the pellet's resistance.

 

A bad pellet or an incorect one should not allow the car to start at all. The ignition should be disabled by the PCM if it sees the wrong resistance value from the pellet.

 

If the pellets are bad....put that money toward a tune and/or tuner software to turn them off....makes more sense than buying a $100 key....I did that on my 1994 F-body and it worked like a charm.

 

Thanks for the info guys.

So, if my car is turning over, but I'm getting fuel / ignition cut off that prevents the car from running, what else am I looking for to diagnose the specific problem & fix?

I had low voltage codes from the IAT and I replaced it.
I also replaced the ignition switch. I pinged all the sensors with a Predator to wake up everything. Everything seems to be working normally when I turn the key on, but when I turn the engine over, it wants to run, but it seems that fuel and / or ignition is being cut off.

Right now I have 0 codes.

I'm checking out all the grounds, but this is an '00 California car with only 41k on the clock, and so far the grounds are in perfect condition.

What else can I check ?

 

That may be how it is supposed to work but I'm not sure its really the case. I had a similar problem a week or so ago. My car would not start and gave the pull key and 10 seconds message. I waited 10 seconds, and it did start but still gave me the pull key message and cut fuel so I could not drive. I cleaned the resistor with denatured alcohol and also disconnected/reconnected the battery. Since then, I have not have the problem.

 

If you plan to replace the key try ecklers or midamerica they have replacements cheaper than the dealer. You do have to provide them with the resistance code tho. If you have a key where the pellet is visable this may work for you. I used to have that type of key when I had my c-4. I carried an pencil eraser in the glove box. Whenever it was a problem I just "erased" the corrosion off the pellet and after waiting the appropriate time, tried again and was on my way. I guess the junk in your pocket or on your hands corrupts it enough to interfear
with the resistance signal. Thats probably why a lot of manufactures put them inside the plastic part of the key now. I got my extra key from ecklers for $15 plus freight & handling I think the dealer wanted $40-45.

 

Its pretty easy to bypass the pass-key system. There are two thin white wires coming from the cylinder. If you measure the resistance of the pellet and get a resistor from Rat Shack of near the same value, you can cut the white wires and solder the resistor across the wires going into the wiring harness. I did this on two different F-bodies and they both work fine.