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Brake Caliper Removal

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Old May 10, 2006 | 09:16 PM
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Default Brake Caliper Removal

I'm trying to remove the rear brake calipers to install some Baer rotors and brakes. The top bolts that hold the caliper came off easily. However, the 21mm bolts that hold the pads, can't budge.

Suggetions? I've just sprayed some wd-40, waiting on to soak in.

I don't want to put too much weight on the spindle, because it's flexing.
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Old May 10, 2006 | 10:29 PM
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Bump for you.
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Old May 10, 2006 | 10:45 PM
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The large bracket bolts are torqued to 125 ft-lbs and have red locktite on them... you need a breaker bar or a strong impact gun to break them loose.
The caliper bolts have blue locktite and should only be torqued to 23 ft-lbs... they should be snap.
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Old May 11, 2006 | 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by rws.1
The large bracket bolts are torqued to 125 ft-lbs and have red locktite on them... you need a breaker bar or a strong impact gun to break them loose.
The caliper bolts have blue locktite and should only be torqued to 23 ft-lbs... they should be snap.
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Old May 11, 2006 | 08:01 AM
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Thanks for the bump and all the info.

Managed to get one of the top 21mm bolts off, still working on the bottom. I thought that my air compressior would handle, but doesn't seem to have enough juice. It's 125 psi. What do you need to be able to use?
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Old May 11, 2006 | 08:20 AM
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If you have a torch, gently heat the spindle where the 21mm goes in. This will help release the loctite.
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Old May 11, 2006 | 02:02 PM
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1/2" drive breaker bar and big rubber mallet got mine loose.
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Old May 11, 2006 | 02:07 PM
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it's the red loctite that is the problem... 125 ft lbs is not that difficult to achieve....the stuff turns to cement.. it need to be really bullied, or shocked to break it lose.. a non loctited bolt torqued to 125 is not that difficult..
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Old May 11, 2006 | 02:39 PM
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I forgot to add that for mine, a barrage of f-words and a few m-fers intimidated the bolts to come loose
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Old May 11, 2006 | 03:17 PM
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3 foot breaker bar, wether impact or bb, be sure to use a 6pt socket
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Old May 11, 2006 | 03:20 PM
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I had one of the 21mm on the rear that would not budge. I got a 36inch long 3/4 black pipe to put over my breaker bar and then jumped up and down on it until it turned Serriously, I'm 190lbs an it took all my body weight on the end of that pipe to break the bolt loose.

Good luck, and be careful not to put your Vette on the ground trying to remove that bolt
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Old May 11, 2006 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Evil-Twin
it's the red loctite that is the problem... 125 ft lbs is not that difficult to achieve....the stuff turns to cement.. it need to be really bullied, or shocked to break it lose.. a non loctited bolt torqued to 125 is not that difficult..

This red loctite stuff sounds like fun to work with .. Is it needed for the assemble process??
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Old May 11, 2006 | 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by yellow01
If you have a torch, gently heat the spindle where the 21mm goes in. This will help release the loctite.
- This worked for me on similar situations... Doesn't take too much heat and use a long breaker bar. I have heard some people place a small jack under the bar and carefully uses the jack to break the hold. However, if you do that, watch to see if the bar doesn't bend or if it is lifting the car up... Good Luck
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Old May 11, 2006 | 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Milkman2
This red loctite stuff sounds like fun to work with .. Is it needed for the assemble process??

You are suppose to use new bolts for the calipers and the caliper brackets that has the loctite already made on it.
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Old May 11, 2006 | 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by RED99
You are suppose to use new bolts for the calipers and the caliper brackets that has the loctite already made on it.
Can't I use the old bolts w/new red locktite?
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Old May 12, 2006 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by dcking04vette
Can't I use the old bolts w/new red locktite?
Many many people have, myself included. If you do this frequently, I'd replace every so often due to the high torque and bolt stretching, but many people in RR remove them frequently and don't always replace.

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Old May 12, 2006 | 12:28 PM
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Default brake bolts

Just went thru the process myself. I got a box end wrench on the bolt head and took a 5 lb. hand sledge, held tension against the wrench and whacked it with the hammer. They came right off. I tried my impact first and it couldn't do the job. The hammer worked easily on all four brakes. After the first whack the air gun did the rest.
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Old May 12, 2006 | 02:01 PM
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Go buy a Harbor Freight Earthquake 600ft lb impact.

Its cheap stuff, $79, but mine has never failed me and I oil it after every use.

It will make easy work of those bolts and take them right off.

I just did this 2 days ago.

If your trying to use a air ratchet it won't budge those.

I've tried the jack under the wrench part too, not on the C5 but on my wife's Miata. I lifted the entire car off of the jackstands about and it didn't move, this was before the air compressor and impact
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Old May 12, 2006 | 04:35 PM
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Count to 60 seconds for the propane torch on each boss that the 21mm bolts torque into. Wire brush to clean the threads on the orignal bolts and apply red Loctite when you re-install. A mechanic with a lift has it much easier in the rear because he can have the handle of the breaker bar down. Can't do this in your garage because of the floor and can't get a decent size breaker bar inside the wheel wells. Front brakes are a lot easier for the same bolts because you can turn the wheels so that the end of the breaker bar is outside the fender.
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Old May 12, 2006 | 06:32 PM
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A breaker bar -- with a length of black pipe (home depot) over it to lengthen and increase your torque. Cheap and it works. I use a 30" long, 1 1/2" black pipe.

Last edited by r2d2nate; May 12, 2006 at 06:37 PM.
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