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Turn key twice to start????????

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Old May 25, 2006 | 09:20 PM
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Default Turn key twice to start????????

Dear c5 tech community,

I recently had to replace my instrument cluster and coincidently -perhaps, my car started to develop a strange habit. You have to turn the key twice to get the engine to fire. The first time the starter turns the engine over and over with good punch but it will not ignite. The second time it always starts up. It doesn't matter if I turn it over alot the first time, or just a short twist, but if you turn the key the second time it always fires up. I checked all of the codes and all are clean except a history code on the HVAC.

In addition to replacing the cluster, about three months ago I had the GM/Chevrolet column lock total removal. There were no side effects with this. The cluster I got is used but set to the mileage of the old. I have tried both keys, reprogrammed keys, and tightened up the battery terminals. The gas I have been burning isn't the best, but it's premium.

I think the cluster is tainted but that's just a guess.

Any insight on this one?

Bluemill
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Old May 25, 2006 | 10:50 PM
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
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From what you're describing as the sypmtoms, I think I may have your answer.
Either do, or have done, a fuel pressure check. Engine off but turn the key on only. It should read between 55-61 lbs, and here's the key, it should stay there. If it bleeds back down rapidly, there are two possible culprits. One (and least hassle) is the fuel filter/regulator. The other is the check valve in the rear fuel feed pipe is not working, thereby allowing the pressure to immediately drop off. You may also experience the occasional lean backfire, or "pop" upon startup.
Try replacing the fuel filter first (10299146). I have a hunch it may not solve the problem, but at least you'll have a new fuel filter (and the pressure regulator that is part of the filter too) and have eliminated it as a possible cause.
What I suspect is the rear fuel feed pipe, or as GM calls the "Fuel feed rear hose". The part number is 10448899. Installing it will involve lowering the driver's side fuel tank to replace.
Last year I started experiencing the exact same symptoms. The car would always start on the second try, but it also puts double the wear and tear on the starter too.
After replacing the rear fuel feed pipe, problem solved.
As I said earlier, the inability of the fuel system to hold pressure is the giveaway here.
HTH,
Robert
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Old May 25, 2006 | 11:02 PM
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Would turning the key to on and waiting until the fuel pump pressurizes the system before cranking prove that out as the problem?
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Old May 25, 2006 | 11:19 PM
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Very astute question. I did try this and it did not make a difference. Waiting 10 to 15 seconds with the key on, no starter made no difference. Each time the second try, it fires right up. It's almost like hitting a reset button by doing it twice.
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Old May 26, 2006 | 10:37 PM
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
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Originally Posted by DngrZne
Would turning the key to on and waiting until the fuel pump pressurizes the system before cranking prove that out as the problem?
The symptoms, as outlined by Bluemill, go a long way to prove the problem. Each time the key is turned, the fuel pump is commanded "on" for 2 seconds. Under normal circumstances, this pressurizes the system sufficiently for engine to start, once the starter is engaged.
The problem I strongly suspect you're having is the same as the one I experienced; that being the system fails to stay pressurized, especially on the initial attempt to start. By ceasing to engage the starter and trying again, there is (most times) just enough pressurized fuel getting to the injectors to allow a successful start-up. The second attempt to start is sometimes also accompanied by a "popping" sound on start-up, which is probably due to an excessively lean conditon from low fuel pressure. Once the engine actually starts, the fuel pump is commanded on by the PCM and operates in a continuous mode if necessary and is fully capable of keeping the system fully pressurized within (or close to) the normal range.
As I said earlier, the easiest way to verify this is by checking the fuel pressure at the test port on the fuel rail. Connect a fuel pressure gauge, turn the key on (do not attempt to start) and observe the reading. Repeat this sequence several times if necessary to verify that the fuel pressure, although initally rising, immediately falls off as soon as the fuel pump stops pumping. Under normal conditions, the pressure should rise to within the range I mentioned earlier and stay there.
HTH,
Roebrt
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Old May 29, 2006 | 05:24 PM
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mine is in the shop now for this exact problem..mine was the fuel pressure regulator .we tested pressure and it fell off quickly after motor stopped....i am sure this is your problem as well EDIT .well replaced it and its still doing it...now i am guessing its the ball in the fuel pump but...starting over now....doh!! maybe the fuel feed rear hose?? is there anyway to diagnose which it is ....thanks

Last edited by pawngod; Jun 6, 2006 at 05:41 PM.
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