just did exhaust so it might be that, but didnt do it the first week i had it on. but. when i take off or nit the brakes hard, i hear a bang or a pop in the rear end. could this be the exhuast hitting something? i got underneath the car and pushed it around and hit it, it didnt touch anything. any thoughts?

 

What flavor did you go with?

 

WHAT?

 

what brand of catback did you buy?

 

I would check the bolts you loosened to move the sway bar out of the way for the exhaust install.
They are part of the rear suspension, and will pop just like that when
not tight enough.

SFS

 

Sorry, was trying to mix humor with assistance.

 

BB Bullets. and all the bolts are tight. have no idea. got underneath it again today and moved stuff around. nothing will hit anything. im lost.

 

A Possibility?

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...light=axle+nut

 

I have the clicking noise coming from the right rear. Over the last few weeks it has grown louder. Usually happens when you first let the clutch out in 1st or reverse. Removed the 34mm axle nut and sprayed with WD-40.. so far no more clicking noise.


this is it i think. if i let off the clutch fast or hit the brakes hard, sounds like exhaust pipe hittin the diff or underneath of the car. i just retightened everything and still does it. im ready to take a bat to the car. anyone have a picture of this axle nut?????????

 

If no one chimes in, I'll take a picture tonight. I've got everything torn apart on my car to replace the rotors and rear pads. Will be no problem.

When I had this happen to me all I did the first time was torque down the axle nut to the specified 125 ft-lbs. The problem didn't go away. About a month later when I managed to work on it again, I backed off the axle nut, sprayed a generous amount of WD-40 and torqued to 12 ft-lbs. Problem solved.

 

Ever get this sucker fixed?

 

I still have the exact same thing on my 04 Z. I used to even be able to rock the car with it sitting in gear, and it would pop. I backed the axle nut off (33mm socket), and sprayed some penetrating oil inside. Some of the noise went away, and I can no longer make it pop by rocking the car, but I still get a pop in the right rear when I go from 1st to reverse as you describe. It almost sounds lke the sound I got when I had the wheel off, and the lugs could slide and hit the brake drum. I wonder with the lugs torqued to 100 ft. lbs. if there is any way that the lugs could be shifting in the holes on the drum under a load?

TO dbirdZ06, did you really mean that you just torqued the axle nut to 12 ft. lbs. or did you mean to say 125 ft lbs???

 

I know a bit about CV joints, but I don't know much about the specifics of our C5 halfshafts. But here's a couple comments for what they are worth.

I've seen a couple folks mention undertorqueing the nut to solve this problem. There a 2 types of bearings; one relies on the nut being torqued to properly preload the bearing, and the other is a preloaded
design which does not rely on the nut torque. Anyone know which we have? Undertorqueing the nut would be a bad thing if we don't have preloaded bearings.

Also, torqueing the nut on an oiled thread greatly increases the tension created as compared to a dry thread. Again, if our bearings rely on the nut to properly tension them, it will be impossible to properly preload the bearing if we oil the thread. So hopefully we have preloaded bearings.

While many of the forum members have discovered lubrication to cure the popping problem, I think the root cause of the problem is misunderstood, and this is why some of the cures have not been totally effective.

On a new car, there is very little lash between the joint and hub splines so there can be no relative motion between the joint and the mating parts (hub and bearing). If the splines deform a bit over time there is potential for this motion and only the torque of the nut is preventing it. So what happens is that, on torque reversal, we overcome the friction on mating surfaces and the splines "pop" as they take up the lash.

So lubricating the splines doesn't really help. The issue is the mating surfaces which are doing what's called stick/slip. If I had this problem, I would lube the face of the nut and the face of the joint which contacts the bearing. This eliminates the "stick" part of stick/slip and the pop should disappear.

This is a well know problem in the industry and is why some car manufacturers use a helical spline on the joint so there is a press fit with the hub. This eliminates the lash but makes removing the halfshaft much more difficult.

 

Hmm..this scares me a bit but I am still going to try a loosen, lube, and tighten.

 

the end result was a lose sway bar bolt, but i had it tight. the dealer fixed it for free

 

You are right on target. I lubricated the splines and still had a popping noise. If you spray lube on the hub/bearing interface, the lube does not penetrate very well. I found that after I backed off the axle nut, I could push the spline in about 1/4 inch which exposed the hub and bearing surfaces. I swabbed light oil on the hub and bearing face, making sure I coated it well. For the first time, the noise is completely gone. Thanks 3rd Childhood....

Also, I think it is important to get the correct torque on the axle nut, and as you mentioned, lubricated threads can greatly affect torque. I made sure to clean the threads on the axle and nut with solvent before torquing the nut back to 118 ft-lbs. The last time I talked to my mechanic at the dealership, he mentioned that the bearing does rely on the axle nut to load the bearing.

 

Glad it helped!

 

Yes, someone please point me to pics of this fix.
I have the crack/pop sound when you ease the clutch out in 1st or reverse !!!