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Old May 31, 2006 | 11:25 PM
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Default cam install

ok... i've decided to go with TSP's 228R... but only problem is... i've never swapped a cam before... I'm very mechanically inclined... I can't remember the last time I took my car into a shop and let someone else work on it... but cam/heads are new to me... ... i'm not ready for heads yet... but i want my power now!!!!! so how do i do a cam swap?
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Old May 31, 2006 | 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by N0TDADYS_98
ok... i've decided to go with TSP's 228R... but only problem is... i've never swapped a cam before... I'm very mechanically inclined... I can't remember the last time I took my car into a shop and let someone else work on it... but cam/heads are new to me... ... i'm not ready for heads yet... but i want my power now!!!!! so how do i do a cam swap?
Here's a good link...

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=1
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Old May 31, 2006 | 11:45 PM
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I seen that link... actually i went to that site first.... i wont' lie i didnt' read the whole thing. After i noticed the headers were coming off first i lost interest in the write up... is head removal required?
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Old May 31, 2006 | 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by N0TDADYS_98
I seen that link... actually i went to that site first.... i wont' lie i didnt' read the whole thing. After i noticed the headers were coming off first i lost interest in the write up... is head removal required?

No, you don't need to remove/replace the heads or the intake. The major PITA about this swap is the steering rack. It's gotta come out (or at least moved SUBSTANTIALLY out of the way) to get to the crank pulley. Should change the pulley to an underdrive unit, swap in a HO oil pump, and upgrade the timing chain since you'll already be taking thosen off.
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 10:38 AM
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Read and you will find he leaves the heads on and uses pen magnets to hold up the lifters. All of the information you need is right there.
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Bounty
No, you don't need to remove/replace the heads or the intake. The major PITA about this swap is the steering rack. It's gotta come out (or at least moved SUBSTANTIALLY out of the way) to get to the crank pulley. Should change the pulley to an underdrive unit, swap in a HO oil pump, and upgrade the timing chain since you'll already be taking thosen off.


The PS rack is a MAJOR PITA!! It was by far the only tough part of the job. After that it's just another cam swap (almost)
Just pay close attention to the torque procedures for the heads, crank pulley etc. They're a little different than the old chevys
Don't skimp on the oil pump and timing chain; Like he said,they're already off anyway
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by N0TDADYS_98
i'm not ready for heads yet... but i want my power now!!!!! so how do i do a cam swap?
Keep in mind that you will need new valve springs for the cam. So you can either change the springs on your stock heads on the car, or buy better heads now that already have good springs on them. Changing the heads on these cars is not a big deal. If you can handle the cam swap, you can certainly handle swapping out the heads.
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 02:21 PM
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From: Derry NH
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Swapping out the heads is a remove, clean, replace procedure. If you can get the steering rack out of the car then a head swap is simple.

Advantages:
-You can remove the lifters, ensuring none will fall into the oil pan
-Spring swaps are easier, no chance of losing a spring lock into the motor (these things are small and hard to keep track of)
-More power

Disadvantages-
-Cost of heads
-Cost of gaskets
-Will also require intake removal (again, much easier than steering rack)
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 02:49 PM
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I have done it three times now and it really isn't that bad. As others have mentioned, you have many advantages to doing it together, but with money being an issue (not saying it is), some perfer to do it in steps. Texas Speed has some great deals on cam install packages, which include everything you will need to do a cam job.

The hardest part is the power steering rack, but even that is becoming pretty simple after doing it so many times. If you have higher miles (50K+) you may want to consider upgrading your oil pump to a LS6 pump. Ported pumps are nice, but not necessary. I would also recommend a new timing chain, the LS2 is very popular, but I went with a JWIS chain. (Yes, these items have been mentioned before.)

If you have 75K+ miles I would recommend a new water pump, OEM is fine. The water pumps start becoming a question at higher miles and it just prevents having to do it later. You will have things torn apart and out of the way, so things will be easier.

If you need anything else, let me know or us know.

Micah
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 12:54 AM
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Ok.. i ordered the 228R cam from TSP...along with a Ported LS6 oil pump and a PRC spring kit w/harden push rods... total bill shipped 870ish.. The good news.. girlfriend is picking up $700 of it.. they dont' ship until 4 so ill call back tomorrow and snag a LS2 chain...

For the record i have a 98 with 114k miles...
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by N0TDADYS_98
Ok.. i ordered the 228R cam from TSP...along with a Ported LS6 oil pump and a PRC spring kit w/harden push rods... total bill shipped 870ish.. The good news.. girlfriend is picking up $700 of it.. they dont' ship until 4 so ill call back tomorrow and snag a LS2 chain...

For the record i have a 98 with 114k miles...
does your g/f have a sister , if you get stuck during the install send me a pm

get an 18mm flare wrench now for the rack lines
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by connecticut
does your g/f have a sister , if you get stuck during the install send me a pm

get an 18mm flare wrench now for the rack lines


Agree, the 18mm flare wrench is a must. You can also drop me a pm too. Don't know what to do next, I am willing to help!

BTW, what are you going to do about your water pump?
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 04:34 PM
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I've been stairing at the TSP Cam, 918 Spring and Pushrod package now for days... I like the looks of the 228R also..

I'd love to swap out oil pumps, timing chains, heads, blah blah blah, hell i'd love to throw in a 427 TT, but none of that is going to happen... lol Besides, my '97 only has 59,000 miles on it. so i'm ok for now... so at least for me; cam & valvetrain stuff is gonna be the limit. ;-)

Swapping just the cam, what kind of tuning is required afterwards? If i went from a bone stock 97 C5 MN6 and added this cam, spring and pushrod package, what kind of tuning would i need to get it to run right? I'd like choppy idle, but i'd like it to run in the cold too... lol I was thinking 112 LSA, on this cam is ok, thoughts?


(My car has never been dyno tuned.)

Would i need to tune it to fix the Idle? (Will it idle fine on its own?)
What else besides swapping the cam would be required to make it work right?

thanks,

Dan
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 05:25 PM
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^^ while i haven't installed mine yet.. after talking to TSP the cam should run under stock tune.. your maf will try to adjust as much as possible but it's abilities are limited... A dyno tune would be most effective at getting you the most power out of it... I'm going with a 114 LSA because i drive it daily... Still some lope but not tons... or atleast i hope ...

right now i'm planning on reusing the water pump... what does a new pump cost? is there a difference between the pump on an LS6 vs LS1 or even the LS2? i'd imagin them all to have the same pump but you never know...

I spent about $1000.00 last month on LT's and LS6 intake... and right now i'm at 850ish this month... did i mention i just bought this car and i've never made payment on a car before... dont' worry ive check all my number... but i'm gonna have to cut some corners to get keep food on the table..
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 05:36 PM
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do i need to replace the sprockets? or should those be ok?
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 06:11 PM
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I ordered the 228R from TSP and I have AFR 205 milled .20 off. Should be a fun package
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