DWynne

I FINALLY got the dealer to replace my vacuum booster to fix the sticking brakes (had to carry in a print out of the service bulletin).

After I got the car back I started noticing a slight vibration through the steering column when I hit a bump. The car drove and tracked fine, but you could feel something. I did not have the time or patience to run it back to the dealer so I let it slide.

The vibration is now a LOT worse. It now feels like a "shudder" through the wheel and you can hear something rattle - seems from the dash area. It seems to vibrate when the brakes are applied.

The dealer changed the oil and filter, did the seat belt recall, and replaced the booster and seal.

What is involved with replacing the booster? Could this be something they forgot to tighten when they were doing the other work or some new problem?

I wonder if it is safe to drive it to the dealer?

Thanks!

BruceF

It's possible that something has loosened up on the booster that is causing the rattle. But, they shouldn't have touched the steering when replacing the booster. It's a fairly simple bolt-on procedure.

Since you said you noticed the vibration started when you hit a bump, maybe the hit loosened a wheel weight? And it may be worsening as the weight gets further out of place.

DWynne

Thanks for the reply.

What I meant to say is that I get a vibration/shudder/rattle when I hit a bump. If driving on smooth freeway at speed it feels fine. Hit a little bump and you can feel and now hear something rattle. Whatever is is has gotten looser. Maybe it is the booster itself? It felt strange this morning when I stepped on the brake - maybe the booster was floppying around?

BruceF

I wouldn't think a vibration you feel is from the booster. But, if it is moving, then maybe it is applying the brakes and then you can feel that through the steering wheel.

Try this. Pop the hood and grab hold of the booster and see if you can move it. If you can move it, then call Chevy for a flatbed to the dealer or just drive it straight there. Then speak to the Service manager and give him for his tech not tightening up the booster properly.

DWynne

I checked the booster at lunch, seemed tight. I could not find anything under the hood that was rattling around.

I guess I will just have to take it in for expert diagnosis.

DWynne

Just to update, the rattle has been getting worse - plus I had the recall notice. So I called the dealer
(that replaced the booster) to see if I could bring the car in. Well, they are several days behind in
getting the column locks done, so I can drop my car off for a few days and they will get to it - and look
at the rattle/vibration.

I was debating this, the weather is picture perfect for a convertible this week, as my son an I were crawling in
rish hour traffic toward his school. When the brakes STUCK! This is not the booster stick where the
pedal would not return unless pulled - this was like they were pumped way up. There was a huge drag
on the car, thank goodness for all that horsepower :-) . We pulled over and I tried putting the parking
brake on and off, turned the car on, restarted (several times). I had just called the dealer for a flatbed
when I tried it one more time and the pedal released. I don't know if it was restarting the car (again)
pr me pumping on it or what. While the brakes were stuck, it took GOBS of foot pressure to make
the brake lights come on - you just could not hardly get the pedal to move enough to trip the switch.
Anyway, we made it to his school (late) and on to the dealer without further problems. They (still)
say it will take several days to look at my car and fix everything.

What could be wrong? The new booster is hosed? Something to do with the rattle? I am afraid they
will not be able to repeat the problem so nothing with get fixed.

The icing on the cake - my loaner GEO METRO! It has 4 doors, maybe 3 or 4 cylinders, and I think
the power steering is shot. I am going to go home at lunch park the Geo bucket-o-crap and
get my daily driver. What a joke! Drive in with a new 'vette, drive out with a Geo!

My wife and I were planning a get-away to the mountains soon - in the convertible. I am not sure I
trust the car any more. Maybe we will take the daily driver and roll down the windows :-)

I am just about convinced this is my first and last 'vette :-(

ersatz928

The service tech probably forgot to install the retaining clip which prevents the clevis pin (connects the top of the brake pedal to the brake booster input rod) from falling out (or maybe jamming between the pedal bracket)

0vetteshop

It is possible that the booster seal and retaining clip popped out (causing the rattle,leading to failure)...GM ships the boosters unsecured in the box,causing them to role around in the box during shipment,this leading to damadge to the booster push rod.It is possible the tech didnt notice the damadge before installing because it is hidden behind the booster dust cover...I had 2 shipped to me damadged before I received a good one...

BlackOps

I read about your replacement of the brake booster. I have my Y2k in the shop right now to have a problem with the brakes looked at. I had it in about a month ago and they turned the rotors to fix a pulsating problem with the brakes. When I took it in I explained to them that after hard braking the brakes seem to "stick" until things cool off a bit. Is this the problem you were having? Also can you send me the Technical Service Bulletin number to reference? I have a sneaking suspicion they are going to give me grief over this issue.

Thanks

DWynne

You can go to:
http://www.nhtsa.org/cars/problems/tsb/

to look up service bulletins. Backup to http://www.nhtsa.org and you can lookup recalls too.

The one I took in was:

Service Bulletin Number: 010522002
Bulletin Sequence Number: 193
Date of Bulletin: 0104
NHTSA Item Number: SB619381
Make: CHEVROLET
Model: CORVETTE
Year: 2001
Component: BRAKES:HYDRAULIC:p:EDAL
Summary: SOME OWNERS MAY COMMENT THAT AFTER THE BRAKE PEDAL IS RELEASED, THE BRAKES
APPEAR TO REMAIN PARTIALLY APPLIED (LIGHT BRAKE DRAG) AND / OR THAT THE BRAKE LIGHTS
REMAIN ILLUMINATED

NOTE: This is for a 2001, but the problem occurs in Y2K cars as well.

The brake booster problem can be reproduced easily, drive the car and wind 2nd (let's say) up near redline and back off. Now lightly apply the brakes. When you release the brakes does the pedal return to its "full upright" position? If not, the you probably have a bad brake booster and seal.

The problem I had this week was a hard pedal condition - the brakes were applied (maybe25-30%) but the pedal was in the full up position. It was very deifficult to push the pedal enough to get the brake lights to come on. It was as if you had pumped the brakes a bunch - but was a lot worse - and had the brakes on with the pedal up. The new booster may be bad or was not properly installed.

DWynne

What are the odds of them finding that :-) ?

I don't know if the locked brake condition can be repeated. I drove the car with the rattle (getting worse) for a while after the booster was replaced. Once it locked, I don't know if pushing the pedal or restarting the car fixed it. I was able to drive several miles and a lot of stop and go traffic without it messing up again.

I am afraid they will keep my car all week (man the weather is NICE), "test drive" it a bunch of miles, then say "could not reproduce the problem".

Thanks for the reply. I think I will print yours and the previous one out and try to suggest that they check that.