Questions about lowering a C5
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
From: Burlington, Ontario, Canada
Questions about lowering a C5
Hi everyone,
I am considering lowering my 2001 C5 coupe, but wanted to ask several confirming questions first that I was hoping you could help me with. I want to lower the car around 1/2" or so, just to reduce the space between the wheels and rim (don't want to slam it). Thanks for your kind guidance.
Cheers
Jason
a) Based on reading some of the forum posts, it appears that the ride becomes firmer after lowering ... is it uncomfortably firm, or just a bit stiffer?
b) I don't want to cut any bushings if possible - how far can I lower the car without cutting anything?
c) Have any of you had difficulty getting a jack under the car after lowering slightly? (I'm assuming you need to now drive on a 1x8 piece of wood or something now to get enough clearance to get a jack under?)
d) God forbid I ever need one, but has anyone got a tow with a lowered C5? I had one once on my old car, and it was towed with a flatbed, but they still needed chains wrapped around the front frame braces to drag it up the bed). Kind of thinking it's going to damage the car/fascia if I ever need that done again with a lowered car.
e) Is it relatively easy to to reverse later? (assuming I don't cut any bushings, etc).
I am considering lowering my 2001 C5 coupe, but wanted to ask several confirming questions first that I was hoping you could help me with. I want to lower the car around 1/2" or so, just to reduce the space between the wheels and rim (don't want to slam it). Thanks for your kind guidance.
Cheers
Jason
a) Based on reading some of the forum posts, it appears that the ride becomes firmer after lowering ... is it uncomfortably firm, or just a bit stiffer?
b) I don't want to cut any bushings if possible - how far can I lower the car without cutting anything?
c) Have any of you had difficulty getting a jack under the car after lowering slightly? (I'm assuming you need to now drive on a 1x8 piece of wood or something now to get enough clearance to get a jack under?)
d) God forbid I ever need one, but has anyone got a tow with a lowered C5? I had one once on my old car, and it was towed with a flatbed, but they still needed chains wrapped around the front frame braces to drag it up the bed). Kind of thinking it's going to damage the car/fascia if I ever need that done again with a lowered car.
e) Is it relatively easy to to reverse later? (assuming I don't cut any bushings, etc).
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 62,195
Likes: 28
Cruise-In II Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19
Only 1/2" won't do much to the ride. You can get it almost 2 inches lower on the stock bolts without cutting bushings. The farther down you go the more likely it is you'll need an alignment and the stiffer it becomes.
Towing can be done by a GOOD tow truck driver. Just takes patience and a few boards to drive up on (or be winched on) while getting on the truck.
As for jacking......yep.....just get a couple of 18-24" 2 x 12's to drive up on before jacking......that's what I do.....works fine and mine is LOW!
I'd also recommend some frame savers......they've saved me SO MANY times.
Towing can be done by a GOOD tow truck driver. Just takes patience and a few boards to drive up on (or be winched on) while getting on the truck.
As for jacking......yep.....just get a couple of 18-24" 2 x 12's to drive up on before jacking......that's what I do.....works fine and mine is LOW!
I'd also recommend some frame savers......they've saved me SO MANY times.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,037
Likes: 0
From: renton washington
very easy to lower and very easy to return to stock. you can lower about 3/4" without cutting the bushings.i personally did not notice any ride difference untill i cut bushings and went down another 1/2". ride is not harsh, just a little firmer.you definatly have to run up on ramps to get a jack under the car. never had my car towed, can't help ya there.
good luck
good luck
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 1,660
Likes: 9
From: Charlotte, NC
Interesting because my car is stock and I have to put it on boards before I can get a jack underneath it.
I'm considering lowering mine as well since it is free and if I don't like it I can always go back to stock.
I'm considering lowering mine as well since it is free and if I don't like it I can always go back to stock.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
Likes: 21
From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
To measure for proper height make sure the air pressure is correct.
I measure from the jacking points under the car on level ground.
Do not know what the stock height numbers are.
I measure from the jacking points under the car on level ground.
Do not know what the stock height numbers are.
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: Hermosa Beach California
I lowered mine about an inch or so. Mike's Corvette turned my bolts down 3/4" and I think I am currently sitting at 1". The car lowers a little more after you drive it a few miles but I love it. The ride is not that much different.
I had my tire destroyed by some debris 2 weeks ago and they were able to get it on a flatbed, little 2x4's the tow guy had made it possible.
As for the jack, forget about it. Not possible without rolling over some wood.
But man, it looks so GOOD! go an inch at least. 1/2" will hardly be noticable.
I had my tire destroyed by some debris 2 weeks ago and they were able to get it on a flatbed, little 2x4's the tow guy had made it possible.
As for the jack, forget about it. Not possible without rolling over some wood.
But man, it looks so GOOD! go an inch at least. 1/2" will hardly be noticable.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
From: Burlington, Ontario, Canada
Hi Rob,
Thanks for your helpful feedback - just wanted to clarify something - I'm *assuming* that turning the bolts down/up (depending if it's front/rear) by x" will result in the ride height changing by x", is that correct? (i.e. when you mention dropping the car by 1", the bolts need to be adjusted by 1" as well, correct?).
Cheers
Jason
Thanks for your helpful feedback - just wanted to clarify something - I'm *assuming* that turning the bolts down/up (depending if it's front/rear) by x" will result in the ride height changing by x", is that correct? (i.e. when you mention dropping the car by 1", the bolts need to be adjusted by 1" as well, correct?).
Cheers
Jason
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: Hermosa Beach California
Hi J,
The bolts need be turned a little less than the desired end result.
For instance if you turn your bolts down 1" put the car back down on the ground and drive it around the block a few times, it will "settle" 1/4"..
And the total drop will be 1 1/4". The shop said the actual amount of "Settle" is different depending on the car but that it will indeed come down a little.
Mine was tuned down 3/4" and it settled another 1/4" leaving the total amount lowered at 1"
Hope this clarifies : )
The bolts need be turned a little less than the desired end result.
For instance if you turn your bolts down 1" put the car back down on the ground and drive it around the block a few times, it will "settle" 1/4"..
And the total drop will be 1 1/4". The shop said the actual amount of "Settle" is different depending on the car but that it will indeed come down a little.
Mine was tuned down 3/4" and it settled another 1/4" leaving the total amount lowered at 1"
Hope this clarifies : )
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
From: Burlington, Ontario, Canada
Thanks everyone, that's a huge help - I think I'll take your advice and lower by 1" - sounds like a reasonable compromise with looks and ride stiffness (and not having to cut anything).
Cheers
Jason
Cheers
Jason
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,572
Likes: 9
From: Jackson Tn
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09
I think you will have to change to shorter shocks when you lower it an inch or more because the shocks can hit the stops.
Also, make sure you measure the frame height from the frame to the floor and not the fenders. The front should be the same on both sides just as the back.
Also, make sure you measure the frame height from the frame to the floor and not the fenders. The front should be the same on both sides just as the back.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
From: Burlington, Ontario, Canada
Hi folks,
Well, I got it done (lowering), and am really happy with the look. It's about 3/4" lower than before, with still plenty of room above the wheel and the housing. It still seems to ride well over bumps, no huge issues going over speed bumps (although I'm extra careful now), and looks great.
Before I go for the alignment, I'm heading back to the shop to doublecheck things. Problem is that they don't have any flat surfaces there to measure things (everything slants for drainage). What they did is mark all 4 (2 front, 2 rear) bolts, and then rotate each one by exactly 6 full 360 degree rotations. Is this a relatively reliable method of doing this? I suppose I still need to find somewhere to measure exactly to ensure everything is balanced, but was this the right methodology?
Cheers
Jason
Well, I got it done (lowering), and am really happy with the look. It's about 3/4" lower than before, with still plenty of room above the wheel and the housing. It still seems to ride well over bumps, no huge issues going over speed bumps (although I'm extra careful now), and looks great.
Before I go for the alignment, I'm heading back to the shop to doublecheck things. Problem is that they don't have any flat surfaces there to measure things (everything slants for drainage). What they did is mark all 4 (2 front, 2 rear) bolts, and then rotate each one by exactly 6 full 360 degree rotations. Is this a relatively reliable method of doing this? I suppose I still need to find somewhere to measure exactly to ensure everything is balanced, but was this the right methodology?
Cheers
Jason
