I have the same problem, checked vacumn hoses also ok.
2000 A/C problem...
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
2000 A/C problem...
I tried reading all the A/C threads before asking so please help me out...
My 2000 coupe has Dual AC control. Recently the blowing fan blows from all air vents and im not able to control the direction (legs, window, front). The display shows changes but air flows the same. I checked out the cables under the battery for potential leaks and damage, and everything looked fine. I also tried unhooking the battery overnight and nothing. I want to get that fixed as the summer is getting hot, Please Help.
My 2000 coupe has Dual AC control. Recently the blowing fan blows from all air vents and im not able to control the direction (legs, window, front). The display shows changes but air flows the same. I checked out the cables under the battery for potential leaks and damage, and everything looked fine. I also tried unhooking the battery overnight and nothing. I want to get that fixed as the summer is getting hot, Please Help.
Pro
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 738
Likes: 67
From: Wichita Kansas
FedEx Bowl 4 St. Jude '09
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14
I posted earlier in the week that I fixed mine... WRONG, Mine was doing the same thing..... but I guess I thought I fixed it as I really drove the car for the 1st time last night and it is back to doing the same thing, air coming out of all vents (floorboard, vents, defroster).. It almost has to be a vaccum line I would think.. I did have a broken plastic vacuum valve that I replaced..thought that was it... Does the DIC show codes for the AC as well? or are the codes displayed on the AC controller?
I guess I will pull the battery out again and really double check all vacuum lines, i had quite a bit of acid leak so maybe I missed something, I just quickly assumed the broken valve would fix it and when I got the car back together it felt better but It was fairly cool out and I didnt actually drive it anywhere...
Here was the link to my other post with pics..(although not alot of good it will do us now..)
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1422586
I guess I will pull the battery out again and really double check all vacuum lines, i had quite a bit of acid leak so maybe I missed something, I just quickly assumed the broken valve would fix it and when I got the car back together it felt better but It was fairly cool out and I didnt actually drive it anywhere...
Here was the link to my other post with pics..(although not alot of good it will do us now..)
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1422586
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 9,899
Likes: 1,839
From: Hot Springs AR
You might want to try www.corvettemechanic.com , C4C5Specialist is just awesome in his knowledge.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 167
Likes: 6
From: DFW Texas
I also just bought a 99 C5 which had the same problem. The battery acid had completely eaten through two spots in the vacuum lines and destroyed the check valve as well. I replaced the check valve and the two vacuum leaks. Now it works as good as new.
Not sure how you checked the vacuum lines but I had to blow through mine in order to find one of the leaks that was buried in the wiring harness. You could also try disconnecting the vacuum line under the passenger side dash (inside the car). If you can't blow through this then you know you are air tight at least up to the vacuum resevoir.
Not sure how you checked the vacuum lines but I had to blow through mine in order to find one of the leaks that was buried in the wiring harness. You could also try disconnecting the vacuum line under the passenger side dash (inside the car). If you can't blow through this then you know you are air tight at least up to the vacuum resevoir.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,251
Likes: 4
Try making a mixture of baking soda and water and poor it over the harness below the battery. The computer is weather tight so don't be concerned. If you see bubble action then you know you have an acid leak and continue to neutralize it with the baking soda mix. Hose it down and take corrective action.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Broken Arrow OK
Originally Posted by IM QUIKR
Try making a mixture of baking soda and water and poor it over the harness below the battery. The computer is weather tight so don't be concerned. If you see bubble action then you know you have an acid leak and continue to neutralize it with the baking soda mix. Hose it down and take corrective action.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,251
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The computer is not submersible but it is weather tight and should handle water sprayed on it. I would first ask you if the baking soda bubbled?
The reason it may not have run afterwards is the fact the acid has indeed eaten thru the wire covering and the water allowed it to short out. Take a closer look and let us know.
The reason it may not have run afterwards is the fact the acid has indeed eaten thru the wire covering and the water allowed it to short out. Take a closer look and let us know.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by my6thvette
I'm not so sure that the computer is that weather tight. I did the baking soda neutralization, just as you suggested, and the car would hardly run afterward. However, it did dry out and was fine in a few hours.
Fortunately for me I caught my battery leak fairly early on in the process several years ago. I didn't take any chances though and poured at least two bowls full of water/baking soda mix all over the wiring harnesses/PCM/TAC module area. Very little fizzing and a close visual showed no damage had occured yet. After a brief rinse, she started right up.
Like IM QUIKR said, your situation may be due to one or more wires had already been compromised by the time the water was poured on.
Pro
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 738
Likes: 67
From: Wichita Kansas
FedEx Bowl 4 St. Jude '09
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14
I took mine back apart for the tenth time and replaced all the vacuum lines and purchased another new 3 way check valve. the one I bought last week had a factory defect in it that I did not noticed until I blew through it. I then removed the inner fender (or the plastic side that goes makes up the battery compartment) to be able to access the main hard plastic vacuum line easier (the one comng off the manifold), which revealed that the line was split closer to the manifold. I then cut it and reattached the new vacuum hose. fired up car and blows like a son of a gun now..
to test all this just remove battery from car and find the main vacuum line that comes from the manifold into a wrapped wireing harness and then connects to the check valve up under the firewall. remove that temporarily put battery back in, start car and see if you have any vacuum. if not then it is that line if you do then the problem is with the other vacuum lines that go into the firewall and connect to a vacuum distribution block under the passenger side dash.
Easier yet just go to part store and purchase all new connectors, vacuum line and check valve for around 10 to 15 bucks and replace them all.
to test all this just remove battery from car and find the main vacuum line that comes from the manifold into a wrapped wireing harness and then connects to the check valve up under the firewall. remove that temporarily put battery back in, start car and see if you have any vacuum. if not then it is that line if you do then the problem is with the other vacuum lines that go into the firewall and connect to a vacuum distribution block under the passenger side dash.
Easier yet just go to part store and purchase all new connectors, vacuum line and check valve for around 10 to 15 bucks and replace them all.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 438
Likes: 15
From: satellite beach fl
Great job, wish I had taken pictures of my leak.
If I remember correctly there are two small lines in the wire bundle, one to A/C and one to the air pump solenoid mounted on top of the wheel well under passenger fender.
If I remember correctly there are two small lines in the wire bundle, one to A/C and one to the air pump solenoid mounted on top of the wheel well under passenger fender.
Last edited by purrvert; Jun 26, 2006 at 02:56 PM.
