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Everything's included, even the screws. You won't need to make any adjustments, just install and go. The Ripper is one stiff ****, so I hope you like to race. Take your time with install and you should be fine. There are instructions in the tech section.
Good Luck!
David In Indy :seeya
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2000 NBM M6-Coupe
All Options minus F45
Euros/Lloyd Mats/Chrome Shifter/Ripper/Halltech tric/T-bypass/Taylor
Wires/TTS Headers/High Flow Cats/X-pipe/Indy Corsas/Baers/Z06
Calipers/Russell ss brake lines/Hawk Pads/Porsche DOT4 Hi-Performance Brake
fluid/Redline oils/Zaino/Engine Dress by Auto Buffs and Design Specialties
Use some locktite blue (medium) on the screw threads so they don't work loose.
The blue is medium so the screws can be removed later if you want to return to stock.
RaceSmith, I hope you like it better than I. It's 180 degrees out from stock but no better in my book, stiff, clunky and very notched. Were I doing it again, I'd probably just shorten the shaft on the stock one, install a real shift **** instead of a leather-covered ballbat, and forget the aftermarket shifters. I'd think GM engineers would occasionally drive other sports car and see how it can be done. Best of luck, many swear by them and not at them. Oh, in all honesty, my Ripper has "loosened up" a little... in 4400 miles! Maybe one of these weekends I'll take the time to pull it and use it for... I don't know, it's too light weight for a door stop.
Final point, if you install the Ripper, might I suggest you go to an electric motor store or elsewhere and get 3 or 4 steel shaft collars (they are like drill bit stops with set screws) and install on the Ripper shaft with locktite, as near the top as possible, to control the Ripper rattle. This fix strikes me as more "elegant" than taping on wheel weights and others that have been suggested here. And, it works!
Saturday installation was post-poned. I am going to attempt it this weekend. I have my loc-tite, and I am not sure if I have the long screws or not. What exactly starts rattling?
:confused:
The shift lever itself or something else? I have felt a couple of rippers in other cars while parked. I went throught the gears with what I thought was a quality firm feel. I hope that I am not "ripping" it out in a week or so. Thanks for all the quality feedback. You vetters rock.
:D
The rattle comes from the shift lever itself. It only rattles under WOT. It needs more weight on the shaft. Add a few strips of wheel weights under the shift boot and that will help. I stuck mine on and then put some tape over them. They helped silence the shifter. You'll find it very stiff at first. It loosens up after a while (5-10,000 mi.) and feels great. If you find it too hard for you or a significant other to shift, try a Hardbar shiftknob. It extends the shatf so you have more leverage.
Good luck. It's an easy install and it changes the tactile feel of the car for the better.
From: Overwhelmed as one would be, placed in my position.... DFW, TX
St. Jude Donor '05
Re: Ripper Installation Saturday (stevenll)
Any truth to the Redline fluid tranny exchange loosening up the Ripper? The ripper and a new **** look to be my next mods.... Let us know how it goes...
Don't know what others have experienced, but when I changed over to red-line fluid, I didn't notice any difference in shift quality...perhaps others have.
Joe
Check with your dealer before you change to Redline ATF. Many will void the tranny warranty if you use Redline. You'll get differing opinions here about this, but C4C5 Specialist has advised checking with your dealer.
The C5 stock shifter is designed so that women can shift the car. Very few women can reliably shift my Kirban now that it is in. I now have an excuse not to let them drive my car.