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Just wanna make sure before I commit to this job. Changing the rotors simply (sic) amounts to:
removing the wheel,
unbolting the caliper assy,
removing the stock rotor,
installing the new rotor,
squeezing back the piston on the caliper a little for clearance,
reinstalling the caliper assy, putting the wheel back on.
torquing everything nice and tight.
Just wanna make sure before I commit to this job. Changing the rotors simply (sic) amounts to:
removing the wheel,
unbolting the caliper assy,
removing the stock rotor,
installing the new rotor,
squeezing back the piston on the caliper a little for clearance,
reinstalling the caliper assy, putting the wheel back on.
torquing everything nice and tight.
Is there anything else? I hate surprises.
that's about it...two men and a donkey to crack those caliper bolts loose!
*now is the best time to paint the calipers RED or your color of choice...also if you bought stock replacement rotors you may consider painting the hats and the veins as they tend to rust and look like hell after a while...
Other then that- also a good time to clean up the shock and A arm area...
oh yeah..the calipers should be ok...no compression needed if you just take them off and put them right back....you may want some large zip ties to secure the caliper to the A arm if you plan on having them off for a few minutes...
Last edited by pewter99; Jul 17, 2006 at 01:40 PM.
that's about it...two men and a donkey to crack those caliper bolts loose!
*now is the best time to paint the calipers RED or your color of choice...also if you bought stock replacement rotors you may consider painting the hats and the veins as they tend to rust and look like hell after a while...
Other then that- also a good time to clean up the shock and A arm area...
Yeah!....I remember that on my '96 C4...had to about stand on the 18" breaker bar to get them loose.
Already got the calipers painted and new shocks just installed, (incidentally, those Z06 shocks I put on along with the Z06 sways are nothing short of amazing....what a difference).
Ok, time to place the order......I'm ready to 'rumble', when the rotors arrive. Thanks
If all you're doing are the fronts, you can turn the wheel to get enough room to get an impact wrench in there to loosen the caliper bracket bolts.
If you're doing the rears also, then that's not an option. Also, try "unwinding" the rotors as you pull them off to help get over the parking brake shoes.
The rear rotors can be a real nightmare to get off due to the parking brake assembly, which is a basic drum/shoe system (GM took a real step back here ). I did it the old fashioned way (whack the sucker REAL GOOD), and managed to disassemble the entire shoe assembly.
A while back on the autocross forum a member suggested rotating the wheel rotor "in reverse" while pulling on the rotor. This would make the rotor "unwind" and save all the associated parking brake grief. Two or three folks tried it and it worked every time!
BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE NEW ROTORS take a dremel tool with a wire attachment or a wire brush and get all of the rust buildup off the hub.
There will be some there, and it may not be even. You want a nice flat clean hub surface to mount your new rotors. A few thousanths can be felt, and more can result in uneven buildup and wear, thereby making the issue even worse.
I use a dremel with a little wire brush bit. It gets a little dusty, but works and works well.
Yep, its that easy.
The caliper screws aren't coming off with a ratchet, and they aren't coming off with a combination wrench and a hammer. You need a breaker bar.
You are supposed to put red loctite on them when you re-install.
Yep, its that easy.
The caliper screws aren't coming off with a ratchet, and they aren't coming off with a combination wrench and a hammer. You need a breaker bar. You are supposed to put red loctite on them when you re-install. Steve
Damn, makes it sound like we need a hydraulic breaker bar to do this!