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Just got my DTE 3.90 diff which will be going in next week along with a Vig 3200. DTE included, among other things, warnings about the effect of wheel hop and the probable effect on drive train durability, not to mention their warranty. I suppose this is generic stuff that goes with all their diffs. I haven't abused my C5 much but have not noticed wheel hop as an issue in stock configuration. Is it anything to be concerned about as performance goes up?
If you do not already have one, a DTE Differential brace would be a good thing to have installed when you have your 3.90 put in. It does not necessarily prevent wheelhop, although some claim that it does, but it definitely prevents your differential from the effects of wheelhop. I believe the piece runs about $400. Good luck
How do we fight wheel hop in an IRS car? I'm coming from a solid axle.
Drag Radials eliminate most of the wheel hop. On street tires I would get severe wheel hop when I would powershift 2nd at the track. When I run 275 40 17 MT DR's I get no wheel hop.
My 01Z had major wheel hop from the day I got it. If the tires spun at all the right rear would slap around. It sounded like somebody had a hammer back there! The BFG drag radials had much less wheel hop than the ole Gatorbacks, but it was still bad. The Gatorbacks were unbearable.
Assuming the problem was due to a blown shock I ordered a new set of rear shocks (thanks Jeremy at Fred Beans) for a 2004 Z06 and installed them. No more wheel hop.
My car is bone stock. Best track time was a 12.7@108mph on a well prep'ed track. I launched at 3500RPM on the BFGs with a quick release of the clutch and had no spin (still bogged). That got me a 1.8s 60ft. I stopped after that. I wasn't trying to prove anything out there, so I decided to let my clutch live a while longer. This was all after the new shocks.
BTW, I ordered the matching front 2004 Z06 shocks the day after installing the rears. Simply put the difference was noticeable and I had to get the front suspension to match the rear.
Good luck! I bet that 3.90 is going to make a world of difference.
I have a 99-6spd coupe with the adjustable suspension. It has 43,000 miles and the shocks seem to work fine. I will be going FI shortly and was wondering is a shock change is due also. I run 295/35-18 BFG drag radials and do not get any wheel hop. Will the additional HP and torque cause wheel hop to rear its ugly head? Any suggestions as to which shock, if a change is due. The “performance” setting is firm enough for me, so I don’t really want to go any firmer.
How do we fight wheel hop in an IRS car? I'm coming from a solid axle.
There have been a few threads on this, but with no clear answer.
The things that looked most promising were to replace the rear control arm bushings with urethane (from an outfit like Vette Brakes) or to use super stiff rear shocks.
If anyone knows the answer, please post.
I have double adjustable Konis and use the car for autocrossing, but launch and leave the line on each run. In dialing in the Koni's, and going from full soft to higher settings we found that an increase in rebound damping eliminated the hop we found at softer settings.
How much horsepower are you making, what tires will you be using, and what suspension do you have?
My car is stock except for CAI and Flowmasters. Has 37,000 miles on it. It has GY runflats on it, pretty much worn out. I'm going to experiment with the new gears on these tires and then get new, maybe Nitto's. After a dyno tune I'm thinking my HP will be around 310.
From the input so far it sounds like shocks might be the answer if I get wheel hop. But with the A4 maybe I won't have a problem. How about you A4 guys?
Drag Radials eliminate most of the wheel hop. On street tires I would get severe wheel hop when I would powershift 2nd at the track. When I run 275 40 17 MT DR's I get no wheel hop.
Had Nitto DR's major wheel hop at track. Broke 9310 tranny shaft and diff. case.
Had Nitto DR's major wheel hop at track. Broke 9310 tranny shaft and diff. case.
That seems strange. This is the first time I have heard of drags radials giving a lot of wheel hopping problems. Did you try any other tires at the track, and how did they perform? By the way, not much info in your signature, it would help others understand your problem better. Just a thought.
Had Nitto DR's major wheel hop at track. Broke 9310 tranny shaft and diff. case.
Originally Posted by LV Vette
That seems strange. This is the first time I have heard of drags radials giving a lot of wheel hopping problems. Did you try any other tires at the track, and how did they perform? By the way, not much info in your signature, it would help others understand your problem better. Just a thought.
Thanks,
Clayton from Las Vegas
You have to spin the tires to get wheel hop. If you can't spin drag radials you won't have a problem.
Boost Master is probably in the 600-700 rwhp range.
Drag radials are notorious for causing wheelhop and rear end damage, you're better off running a full slick. The stiff sidewall of the drag radial has no give, but the slick's soft sidewall will absorb some of the shock of launching.
3rd Childhood, the odds that you'll have wheelhop with your setup are pretty slim. I didn't experience any till I had 388rwhp and a 4400 stall verter.
3rd Childhood, the odds that you'll have wheelhop with your setup are pretty slim. I didn't experience any till I had 388rwhp and a 4400 stall verter.[/QUOTE]
Thanks for the input. Theoretically the gears and conveter are all I'm going to do (oops, my BS detector just went off) so maybe I'll be OK.