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Don't you have to replace the rod bearings too? I always thought that once the bearing is compressed when torqued and then released, loosened, it had to be replaced..
Yes, doing one at a time. Just got to drop cradle a bit to get pan out.
see5,
If I unbolt the motor mounts and lift the motor, then unbolt the cradle, can I lower it enough to remove the pan and swap the bolts? Or, does the entire cradle / front suspension need to come completely out?
see5,
If I unbolt the motor mounts and lift the motor, then unbolt the cradle, can I lower it enough to remove the pan and swap the bolts? Or, does the entire cradle / front suspension need to come completely out?
I suppose you could do it that way, I just chose to remove mine completely, once you get the cradle loose enought o drop it's not that much more to drop it completely. With it off completely it makes getting to and torqueing the bolts that much easier, IF you can do it that way. I had a lift, most don't, that made it a LOT easier.
If you support the engine under the crank pulley, remove bottom engine mount nuts you can mark and remove the front LCAs from cradle.Then remove 4 cradle bolts and drop cradle ~6". You can get the pan down and out.
Edit:
And there is the spring issue. I have a relatively flat VBP spring so it slides right out but the stock spring will fight you.
Don't you have to replace the rod bearings too? I always thought that once the bearing is compressed when torqued and then released, loosened, it had to be replaced..
"once the bearing is compressed when torqued and then released, loosened, it had to be replaced"
where would you have gotten that impression from? I think babbit bearings can be reused indefinitely as long as they are in good shape.
"once the bearing is compressed when torqued and then released, loosened, it had to be replaced"
where would you have gotten that impression from? I think babbit bearings can be reused indefinitely as long as they are in good shape.
The problem is when you add bolts that have higher tensile strength they tend to distort the cap, you should have the rods honed but you can just swap them out.
Phil
The problem is when you add bolts that have higher tensile strength they tend to distort the cap, you should have the rods honed but you can just swap them out.
Phil
Are you sure this is true if you stay with the standard torque requirements? I think this would depend on what % of YS the original bolts were torqued to.
oh i just have to ask. why are you changing the rod bolts
They're the weak link in the bottom end. 97-00's are weaker than 01+. I only take my 98 to 6600, but I believe the later years can be taken to 6900 safely if you have the supporting mods(springs, pushrods).
They're the weak link in the bottom end. 97-00's are weaker than 01+. I only take my 98 to 6600, but I believe the later years can be taken to 6900 safely if you have the supporting mods(springs, pushrods).
I'm assuming that you have changed the timing chain as well?
The problem is when you add bolts that have higher tensile strength they tend to distort the cap, you should have the rods honed but you can just swap them out.
Phil
LS1 rods cannot be resized or honed.. You have to repace the rod. Even if you hone them it removes metal and changes clearances..