Ideal Autocross/Street Alignment specs?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
Ideal Autocross/Street Alignment specs?
Hi All,
I am due to have my alignment done very soon, I'm sure it is a ways off now too. It is lowered all the way on the factory bolts, with the hotchkis bars, bilstein sports, Z06 wheels and KD's. I am thinking about getting it corner weighted also. I am looking for an aggressive alignment set up that will still keep the car drivable on the street and not chew up the tires to bad. Let me know what your running and how you like it? Thanks,
Russ
I am due to have my alignment done very soon, I'm sure it is a ways off now too. It is lowered all the way on the factory bolts, with the hotchkis bars, bilstein sports, Z06 wheels and KD's. I am thinking about getting it corner weighted also. I am looking for an aggressive alignment set up that will still keep the car drivable on the street and not chew up the tires to bad. Let me know what your running and how you like it? Thanks,
Russ
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,251
Likes: 4
Post this in the autoX section and you'll learn a whole bunch.
If you have a coupe and you have removed the run-flats, then ask for them to set it according to the 2001+ Z06 specs. The Z specs are more agressive so the computer on the alignment unit can get you where you want. If you still have run-flats then use the coupe settings otherwise you'll just wear out the tires on the inner edge.
But most importantly, before the alignment, since you have changed the ride height you need to make sure you don't alter the aerodynamics of the car. Set your "rake" so that the front is 1/4" to 1/2" lower than the rear. This keeps the down force on the car at high speeds. Otherwise the car will get loose.
The measurements are from the lift points on the frame rails; just in front of the front lift point and just behind the rear lift point. Be sure you are on flat concrete and your tires have the proper air pressure. Once you get it set then get the alignment.
If you have a coupe and you have removed the run-flats, then ask for them to set it according to the 2001+ Z06 specs. The Z specs are more agressive so the computer on the alignment unit can get you where you want. If you still have run-flats then use the coupe settings otherwise you'll just wear out the tires on the inner edge.
But most importantly, before the alignment, since you have changed the ride height you need to make sure you don't alter the aerodynamics of the car. Set your "rake" so that the front is 1/4" to 1/2" lower than the rear. This keeps the down force on the car at high speeds. Otherwise the car will get loose.
The measurements are from the lift points on the frame rails; just in front of the front lift point and just behind the rear lift point. Be sure you are on flat concrete and your tires have the proper air pressure. Once you get it set then get the alignment.
Last edited by IM QUIKR; Jul 28, 2006 at 12:22 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,498
Likes: 3
From: Sacramento CA
My setup is as such: Get as much camber as you can out of the front and about 1.0-1.2 degrees in the rear. Front is 0 toe to maybe 1/16th toe out. Rear toe is 1/16 toe in. Not sure on the caster. It rides great to me and the tire wear is good.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 10,078
Likes: 17
Originally Posted by IM QUIKR
Set your "rake" so that the front is 1/4" to 1/2" lower than the front. This keeps the down force on the car at high speeds. Otherwise the car will get loose.
Front lower than the front.... I'll have to try that.
Instructor
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
From: Poulsbo WA
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ight=alignment
here's this....my car isn't lowered though....just keep that in mind.
here's this....my car isn't lowered though....just keep that in mind.
