Changing exhaust with new...
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2006
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From: Virginia Beach VA
Changing exhaust with new...
Does the car have to be on a lift to change the mufflers out or is there some trick I'm missing by having it jacked up and on stands? The way the pipes curve, it seems that it has to be on a lift high enough to work the exhaust out. I tried with stands and there doesn't seem to be enough clearance to get them off? Thanks!
Melting Slicks
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From: Edmond, OK...One of the first rules of online forums: If you don't like what is said but can't refute it, attack the poster.
You need to lift the rear up either 30 or 36 inches in order to take the stock exhaust off. You can always cut them off if you don't want them anymore.
jeff
jeff
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From: Redsox, Pats, Celts & Bruins !!! Redsox Nation !!!
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12
Originally Posted by JeffC5
You need to lift the rear up either 30 or 36 inches in order to take the stock exhaust off. You can always cut them off if you don't want them anymore.
jeff
jeff
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Instructor
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From: Virginia Beach VA
Originally Posted by Billf6531
Your rear wheels need to be sitting on a stack of 'stuff' 24" tall.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Calgary Alberta
Cement blocks, with 3/4" plywood between each row for stability. Put the floor jack on blocks, in stages, to get the necessary height. That said, I did it once, to see if I could do it. If there's ever a next time, $20 to the local muffler shop is the route I'm going to go.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,137
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From: Oklahoma City OK
Cruise-In III Veteran
Originally Posted by Billf6531
Cement blocks, with 3/4" plywood between each row for stability. Put the floor jack on blocks, in stages, to get the necessary height. That said, I did it once, to see if I could do it. If there's ever a next time, $20 to the local muffler shop is the route I'm going to go.
$20 to a muffler shop is better than possible death.
As previously posted, you will need to take the two brackets off the anti-sway bar and rotate it to a point below the rear cradle to get the mufflers off.
When you put the new pipes on, loosening the two-bolt flanges in front of the axle and rotating the “over-the-axle” tubes (pivoting on the stock hanger bracket attached to the mufflers) will adjust the tips.
Last edited by FRISKY; Jul 30, 2006 at 10:34 PM.
Pro
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From: Calgary Alberta
Ever notice the number of two and three story buildings with load-bearing masonry walls?
It's been about 40 years since I looked at the compressive strength tables of masonry block, but I seem to recall that it's in the many thousands of pounds per square inch for new or dry-stored block. Even more when the load is evenly spaced via the plywood. Since the corner weight of a C5 is ~900 pounds, I think it's very safe.
Do you have any specifications to the contrary?
It's been about 40 years since I looked at the compressive strength tables of masonry block, but I seem to recall that it's in the many thousands of pounds per square inch for new or dry-stored block. Even more when the load is evenly spaced via the plywood. Since the corner weight of a C5 is ~900 pounds, I think it's very safe.
Do you have any specifications to the contrary?
Last edited by Billf6531; Jul 31, 2006 at 01:27 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Oklahoma City OK
Cruise-In III Veteran
Originally Posted by Billf6531
I think it's very safe.
Do you have any specifications to the contrary?
Do you have any specifications to the contrary?
Concrete blocks are fairly strong when mortared together and compressed in the one direction they are designed to provide support, such as a wall, but have almost no strength when loosely stacked and a side or twisting load (wind, stacked on dirt, someone leans on the side of the car, etc…) is applied.
A floor jack and jack stands are a very good investment, but there aren't many readily available that can lift and support your car at the height needed to remove the mufflers on a C5. A lift is the better choice.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Calgary Alberta
None of the conditions you quote were in place when the blocks were used to elevate my C5.
I'll explain further, since you seem to be a 'nervous nellie'.
Take two 16x8x8 inch masonry blocks and place them in the long direction parallelling the length of the vehicle. Lay a 3/4 inch piece of plywood on top. Place two more blocks at right angles to the previous blocks. Lay a 3/4 inch piece of plywood on top. Place two more blocks at right angles to the previous blocks, and once again cap with a 3/4 inch piece of plywood.
You now have a stack of six blocks, ~26 inches tall, to support one corner of the rear of the car and change out the muffers. Lots of jacking involved.
I didn't go into all this detail, originally, since I credit most people who own a C5 with the intelligence to use an idea wisely. I realize that some may not, but I think it's unlikely that they would have the capability of assembling enough blocks and plywood to do the job anyway.
If this method won't support one corner of a C5, safely, I'll each my shirt.
This discussion is now over.
I'll explain further, since you seem to be a 'nervous nellie'.
Take two 16x8x8 inch masonry blocks and place them in the long direction parallelling the length of the vehicle. Lay a 3/4 inch piece of plywood on top. Place two more blocks at right angles to the previous blocks. Lay a 3/4 inch piece of plywood on top. Place two more blocks at right angles to the previous blocks, and once again cap with a 3/4 inch piece of plywood.
You now have a stack of six blocks, ~26 inches tall, to support one corner of the rear of the car and change out the muffers. Lots of jacking involved.
I didn't go into all this detail, originally, since I credit most people who own a C5 with the intelligence to use an idea wisely. I realize that some may not, but I think it's unlikely that they would have the capability of assembling enough blocks and plywood to do the job anyway.
If this method won't support one corner of a C5, safely, I'll each my shirt.
This discussion is now over.