Leaking Fuel Filter Outlet Fitting
Anyone else had this problem?
Thanks
I doubt ethanol is the cause. We've had it in our gas in Michigan for years, and fuel systems are designed around it.
I read in a previous post that it can be done with a screwdriver, but there's no room to get in there.
Anybody know what the proper tool is, and where it can be obtained?
Thanks
If you can, just squeeze the outermost parts of the clip in with one hand, and pull the "boot" off with the other hand. The plastic clip will stay on the metal part, and not pull off with the boot.
Could also be done with needle nose pliers......
There's a tool shown in the manual, but I haven't found an auto parts store that has it.
You know you should release the fuel pressure first, right?
Could also use a rag wrapped around the joint to catch the spray, but it makes it really hard to see what you're doing.
I probably can get one hand in there with the needlenose pliers, and the other hand to pull the filter free, since I've dropped the muffler pipe.
Will I find an O ring in there?
Releasing pressure is no problem since the fitting is leaking so bad!!
Thanks
US
Last edited by USCANAM; Jul 29, 2006 at 08:14 PM.
Haven't ever purchased one myself. Chevy dealer? Anyone know?
Male part of filter should be lubed with oil before sliding coupling back on to avoid messing up new O ring.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Going to a car show tomorrow, so will get back on it in a few days.
With a 100,000 miles on the car,(and the filter) I don't mind giving it a few days rest.
Will let you know how we make out.
Thanks again
I'm assuming by the lack of room, that you have an automatic? Changing the filter on a manual is much easier from what I've read.
Definitely lube the male end with clean oil, just dip your finger in and wipe the sealing surface. Take a look inside the outlet end of the filter, you should see o-rings inside. Make sure they are there. Other than that, should be pretty simple. Don't add any extra o-rings, and make sure to tug (gently) on the filter once you have it installed to make sure the clips are fully seated. Press up the system by turning the key on (without starting the car) to check for leaks before lowering the car.
You would think I'd have more advice since I've just done this, but I really don't. Hope this helps, keep us posted.
S
Since "scatterbrained" just did this yesterday, he'll correct me if im wrong...
Make sure you do NOT resuse any orings or plastic rings. Make sure the lines are clean, and the quick connects are snapped in properly. The quick connect fitting are a bit of a pain but other than that it is easy.
Good Luck!
Last edited by Stealthy4; Jul 30, 2006 at 09:23 AM.
Yes, it is an automatic.
Just looked inside the new filter (CarQuest), and it appears that there is at least one tiny O ring, and maybe another one in front of that one which is a different color than the front one.
I'm assuming that there is an O ring on the inlet fitting, and since it's not leaking, I'm hoping it's OK. Not sure if it's even possible to look in it without a mirror once the filter is removed, because of the angle.
Will get back to it tomorrow. Too hot and humid here in MA to fool with it tonight.
BTW, at the car show I was at today in Fairhaven MA, many, many Corvettes, with C5s being the most popular. I still prefer the appearance of the C5 over the C6!!
Thanks again
Many thanks to helpers on the forum.
Actually, if this filter was in a place that can be accessed easily, this topic would not even be on the forum. But in the case of a 1997 Automatic, there are a few problems. Fortunately, I have a lift, so that makes it a little easier, but you really need hands and arms of a size found on a 3 year old. Trying to get some light, hands, tools, and get your eyes (glasses) focused is a challenge.
First, you have to drop the left muffler. Lots of Blaster on the bolts ahead of time will help. Have a new flange gasket ready.
Removed the inlet fitting first. Used a small pair of needle nose vise grips to squeeze the retainers. Then a couple of screw driver on either side to push the filter free. This is the easy one.
Found the only way I could squeeze the retainer on the outlet was with a small tie wrap pulled tight over the retainer's ears with help of a pair of needle nose pliers to pull it tight. It helps to first pre-bend the tie wrap into a half loop. You'll be inserting the end of the tie wrap into the slot with one hand (think dexterity of a brain surgeon), without being able to see what you're doing. Then a good tug on the old filter should remove it. Tie wrap could be used for the inlet too, but didn't think of it at the time.
Assembly is easy, and as stated earlier, a little vaseline on the tubes will help. Do the outlet first and push until you hear a click. Same with the inlet. By lowering the muffler, you can get your arm over the pipe, then your hand on the filter to push or pull it.
When I examined the old filter, it appears that the two O rings are intact, but seemed swelled, as compared to the new one. A retaining ring was loose, but that could have happened during removal.
Thanks again all. Car should be good now for another 100,000 miles!!!
Last edited by USCANAM; Aug 1, 2006 at 12:43 PM.
Anyway, I seem to have a leak on the passenger side by the fuel tank area as I have noticed a spot on my garage floor.
When it is a bad fuel filter, I assume you notice the leak on the drivers side of the car.
Thanks.
Anyway, I seem to have a leak on the passenger side by the fuel tank area as I have noticed a spot on my garage floor.
When it is a bad fuel filter, I assume you notice the leak on the drivers side of the car.
Thanks.
Also, they might have changed the filter design in 99...anyway, i think the 99 system is very similar to the 97 if not the same...
Last edited by Stealthy4; Sep 9, 2006 at 04:08 PM.















