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Thought I put this here but it ended up in scan\tune oops.
Ok I tried searching but had no luck. What are the pro's and con's of installing an underdrive pulley and when should it be done (same time as headers that sort of thing or is it easy enough to do whenever)? Also how much of a gain could be expected on a stock 2003 Z06?
Just trying to compile all sorts of good info in prep for what I'd like to do over the next 1 to 2 years.
The pro's to an underdrive pulley are obviously power... Usually we see 5-10 rwhp from one. The cons are that sometimes you will have charging problems... usually only cars with huge stereo's though. And they do make an "overdrive" alternator pulley to combat this, however it will take away a couple horsepower so I'd only do it unless you absolutely have to... Most of the time I've never seen anybody have a problem with an underdrive pulley, we put one on almost every car we build...
Usually the best time to install one is same time as a cam.
My apologies to Nulltime for adding to his thread (read hijacking) but which underdrive is the best. I've seen 10%, 20%, and 25%???
You wanted to know this anyway, right Nulltime?
My apologies to Nulltime for adding to his thread (read hijacking) but which underdrive is the best. I've seen 10%, 20%, and 25%???
You wanted to know this anyway, right Nulltime?
ASP. It's 25% underdrive and made from aluminum. Most others are made from iron.
Ah cool, yeah I was wondering about the 25% and alluminum thing. Kind of guessed the Alluminum part hehe. Ah so if you were doing a cam it would be the time to do it. Ok cool thanks for that tid bit
This calander year I'm changing out my entire exhaust system. Next I'll start to peek at the power adders uptop hehe.
ASP. It's 25% underdrive and made from aluminum. Most others are made from iron.
I usually keep them in stock.
Chuck @ HPE
281-448-1300
Chuck, I checked your website, because I was interested, and the writeup says 20%. What's the price difference, and do you have the 25% ASP aluminum underdrive?
How much has to come off the car to get the pulley off?
Steering rack ,
Very few guys would ever do just a pulley change, but if you're doing a cam change, it's just a matter of putting on a different pulley (and belt)
The AC portion of the pulley is usually the same size by the way
Chuck, I checked your website, because I was interested, and the writeup says 20%. What's the price difference, and do you have the 25% ASP aluminum underdrive?
Yeah, my website is old and feeble... I don't think it has been updated for a year and a half. I've been trying to get a new one made, but the guy I had doing it flaked out after a year. So not sure what I'm going to do about that whole situation...
I went with an ASP pulley during an intake manifold change and header install. It's been about a year and I've had no problems at all. The voltmeter showed maybe a 1 or 1.5 volt drop. Still putting out about 13.5 volts though so no problems.
Im curious about the charging issue as well. I have a 12" sub and a 500 watt amp is that going to affect the ability for the underdrive pulley to work effectively?
I went with an ASP pulley during an intake manifold change and header install. It's been about a year and I've had no problems at all. The voltmeter showed maybe a 1 or 1.5 volt drop. Still putting out about 13.5 volts though so no problems.
Mine has been on for 2 years without any problems at all. The DIC shows 13.8 volts most of the time.
The only time the ud pulley causes problens is during idle. As soon as you speed up the engine the power output goes up to normal. As stated above with A/C on and a big amp you will sometimes see the ammeter showing a lower number at idle. Its a good idea to pin the crank when you install the pulley.
Steering rack ,
Very few guys would ever do just a pulley change, but if you're doing a cam change, it's just a matter of putting on a different pulley (and belt)
The AC portion of the pulley is usually the same size by the way
Class rules won't let me change cam, but they do allow a pulley change.