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Over at the LS1.com forum 99WhiteSS and Nineball have some designs on these KR elmins/decreasers. Go to the engine section and do a search either on Knock Retard Eliminators or just lookup Nineball or 99WhiteSS. They have somewhat different competing designs. Cost is about aprox $45.
It doesn't sound like this differs much from the original knock sensor desensitizer circuit that I came up with a few years ago to eliminate false knock on my LT1. It should work fine IF you know for a fact you are getting FALSE knock. Knock on the LS1 seems to be a real issue and if the PCM reports knock on an LS1 it is more likely to be "real" knock than on the LT1, at least from my (limited) experience of looking at PCM data. If you can get rid of your knock retard by tuning your mixture a tad richer with a MAFT, you had real knock...not false knock! Just be careful. I wouldn't recommend blocking your PCM's "ears" to knock if there's any possibility you are really getting knock.
For anyone interested, my original KS desensitizer circuit is at the URL below. You can use the Windows program to calculate what resistors you need for your KS for whatever reduction percentage you want and you can build this for about $2.
I have some KR issues under WOT. HOw do I know if this is a false KR or not? I've tried higher octane fuel but to no avail. Tightened my exhausts and anything that may be rattling... My Autotap (02 readings, under WOT is typically above 0.9XX). What else can I do to figure out whether I have a false KR?
I have basically the same car, even color, 2001 with powerloader and have knock problems even with 94 octane. Steve suggested reprograming again. Have you made any progress? My dyno runs show AFR 12.5
I have some KR issues under WOT. HOw do I know if this is a false KR or not? I've tried higher octane fuel but to no avail. Tightened my exhausts and anything that may be rattling... My Autotap (02 readings, under WOT is typically above 0.9XX). What else can I do to figure out whether I have a false KR?
I have basically the same car, even color, 2001 with powerloader and have knock problems even with 94 octane. Steve suggested reprograming again. Have you made any progress? My dyno runs show AFR 12.5 I have some KR issues under WOT. HOw do I know if this is a false KR or not? I've tried higher octane fuel but to no avail. Tightened my exhausts and anything that may be rattling... My Autotap (02 readings, under WOT is typically above 0.9XX). What else can I do to figure out whether I have a false KR?
IMHO, its beyond me that so called custom PCM product where it's purpose to re-calibrate the PCM for better performance then the stock PCM code is as bad or worse then the stock code is.
Almost all knock (which also is due to pinging) I have come across in monitoring over 30 C5s proved it is not due to false knock for with tunng via a MAF translator,knock/ping was dialed out. If it was false then no matter what the tuning changes are would not have an effect on something external causing the knock.
Keep in mind G.M themselves have done code fixes to reduce knock within newer versions of PCM code. Also notice with '02 M.Y that using teflon coated pistons and different rings have reduced piston slap and in monitoring '02s see very little knock counts.
Some good PCM traces should point to what is causing your knock, e-mail me your traces and I'll tell you what I see but I can say even with so called power PCM code you can dial out ill tuning using a MAFT translator.
Believe what Team-ZR1 says. It worked for me, also gave me addl torque (not dynoed yet, but the ease scan had my torque at 343 after MAFT tuning, 326 before) The nice thing about the MAFT is you can change it whenever you want. For approx $200 you get the MAFT, and another $300 will get you the Ease scanner software. I believe this is around the same price for the Powerloader. This is the only way to go if you have a 6 speed
Believe what Team-ZR1 says. It worked for me, also gave me addl torque (not dynoed yet, but the ease scan had my torque at 343 after MAFT tuning, 326 before) The nice thing about the MAFT is you can change it whenever you want. For approx $200 you get the MAFT, and another $300 will get you the Ease scanner software. I believe this is around the same price for the Powerloader. This is the only way to go if you have a 6 speed
Keep in mind the MAFT can be used on any car that uses the G.M MAF and thus you can keep it if you sell the car it is in now and also the Ease scanner works on any G.M car/truck so from a cost standpoint it has a much longer use of life whereas custom code costs are for just that car and is lost when you sell the car. Also if for any reason you have to return to stock PCM code, the MAFT still can tune you in whereas custom PCM code is overwritten and can be lost unless you pay the vendor for another copy.
Lastly a MAFT allows you to control the tune anytime whereas custom PCM code keeps you locked out of tuning just as stock code does.
Believe what Team-ZR1 says. It worked for me, also gave me addl torque (not dynoed yet, but the ease scan had my torque at 343 after MAFT tuning, 326 before) The nice thing about the MAFT is you can change it whenever you want. For approx $200 you get the MAFT, and another $300 will get you the Ease scanner software. I believe this is around the same price for the Powerloader. This is the only way to go if you have a 6 speed
You know it Bro!
I am also a member of the MAFT club :flag