Z06 Sway Bar Install Tips

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Sep 7, 2006 | 08:59 AM

#21

GUSTO14

Le Mans Master

Joined: Sep 2003

Posts: 8,812

Likes: 2,029

From: eastern NC

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wicked Weasel

you can sell them, but first make sure all of yours are good (not that I have seen bad metal endlinks, but you never know).

I have seen many of these a few years old that have the rubber seals torn. This will allow water and dirt to get into the end-link pivot. If you have a torn seal, I would replace it with a new one and save the old one for a spare in the event you break one.

Be careful when changing the rear bar. I believe it's the lower bolt on the bracket that holds the bar that is also a camber bolt for the lower control arm. If you are going to lift the rear of the car for access, I would lift the car and place some blocks under the tires and lower the car back down so there is no (or very little) tension on the lower control arm when removing the bolt. You might also place a mark on the opposite side, in the event it does move you can set it back to where it was.

FYI, I went with the adjustable end-links and poly bushings from VB&P when I installed a larger set of bars. The adjustable links primarily because they are so much stronger than the aluminum end-links and yes... I have seen one of them with the pivot pulled completely from the end-link socket.

Good luck... GUSTO

Sep 7, 2006 | 01:29 PM

#22

dudleyd

Racer

Joined: Aug 2005

Posts: 361

Likes: 1

From: Montara Ca

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wicked Weasel

I believe you are incorrect an 02 C5 has metal endlinks already.

Metal endlinks replaced plastic
C5 Coupe/Vert 2002 and up
Z06 2001 (only front rears were done in 2002) and up

I stand corrected,

Thank you.
Sorry for the misinformation.

Sep 7, 2006 | 06:19 PM

#23

LoneStarFRC

Team Owner

Joined: May 2001

Posts: 36,836

Likes: 244

From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.

St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16

Quote:

Originally Posted by GUSTO14

.............. Be careful when changing the rear bar. I believe it's the lower bolt on the bracket that holds the bar that is also a camber bolt for the lower control arm. If you are going to lift the rear of the car for access, I would lift the car and place some blocks under the tires and lower the car back down so there is no (or very little) tension on the lower control arm when removing the bolt. You might also place a mark on the opposite side, in the event it does move you can set it back to where it was.

Good luck... GUSTO

Good tip. When in doubt: It never hurts to take her into the alignment shop afterwards. Your tires and/or handling will love you for it.

Sep 8, 2006 | 06:58 AM

#24

ryoder

Drifting

Joined: Aug 2006

Posts: 1,407

Likes: 46

From: Tampa FL

So let me get this straight you want me to put my vette up on blocks?

Yeah I live in Florida but I'm not trailer trash

No seriously I would love to have a way to lift the car without unloading the suspension for this type of work.

Can you back onto ramps? Or should I lift it up and slide ramps underneath the rear wheels?

Sep 8, 2006 | 08:07 AM

#25

Wicked Weasel

Team Owner

Joined: Jul 2004

Posts: 24,652

Likes: 298

From: NJ

St. Jude Donor '05-'08

Quote:

Originally Posted by ryoder

So let me get this straight you want me to put my vette up on blocks?

Yeah I live in Florida but I'm not trailer trash

get 2 sets of ramps - that is what I have. I drive up on the front set and then chock the tires. I then lift the rear with a jack and put the 2nd set under the rear. Of course I also use 4 jackstands and usually the jack is where I am working - yes call me paranoid, but I saw a car drop off a jack once and it was effing scary....

Sep 8, 2006 | 08:27 AM

#26

GUSTO14

Le Mans Master

Joined: Sep 2003

Posts: 8,812

Likes: 2,029

From: eastern NC

Quote:

Originally Posted by ryoder

So let me get this straight you want me to put my vette up on blocks?

Yeah I live in Florida but I'm not trailer trash

No seriously I would love to have a way to lift the car without unloading the suspension for this type of work.

Can you back onto ramps? Or should I lift it up and slide ramps underneath the rear wheel?

Yes, which ever you find easiest to do, either way will work. You just want the rear wheels in a stable position so that the lower control arms don't move when you remove the (lower) nut that holds the sway bar bracket on.

I would mark the bolt regardless and just confirm when you reinstall the nut that it hasn't moved. It can almost never hurt to have the alignment checked... I say almost, because an incompetent technician can easily make it worse...

By the way WW... paranoia can be a good thing... if it keeps you safe.

Good luck... GUSTO

Sep 8, 2006 | 08:51 AM

#27

craig04c5

Melting Slicks

Joined: Jan 2004

Posts: 3,012

Likes: 15

From: Jensen Beach FL

On my 04 I did not need to use the Torx to hold the bolt. There is a nut on the backside you can use a wrench to hold it.

Sep 8, 2006 | 08:59 AM

#28

Silver98

Burning Brakes

Joined: Nov 2004

Posts: 993

Likes: 0

From: PA

If you are going to back onto ramps, you may want to put down a 2x12 so the front wheels can roll up onto the wood when you back up onto the ramps. It will keep the front bumper from hitting the ground.