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Good morning all,
I need to see if there is anyone in Houston, TX area that would be willing to come over and help me degree my cam. I am planning on tearing my car down in the next couple weeks to get this done. I can purchase the degreeing wheel kit if need be but I still have no idea of how to get it done. I am willing to pay to get it done. Shoot me a PM and I will get in contact with you and we can arrange something. As always, thank each of you for all your help and time!!
you don't need any degreeing wheel. All you have to do is line up the dots. There is one on the cam gear and one on the crank gear. line up the two and you are done.
If you bought an aftermarket timing chain with advance on the crank gear, just set it to zero. Change the timing in the PCM.
The dots being lined up is a given.
Degreeing the cam checks the accuracy of the lobe grind. i.e. did I get the lobe grind that was advertised for the cam I purchased.
But how far do you go? If you buy a set of heads, to you measure the valves, check the tension spring on the springs, etc? It's another hondo for a good cam degree kit. So if you can't trust your cam supplier, perhaps you should change to another brand.
I am running a 228/232 588/592 110+1 custom grind comp cam with XER Lobes. The gentleman who suggested this cam said I should set it up at 109 intake centerline, which I didn't do. My torque numbers were lower than expected.
Another member of LS1tech runs the same set-up as mine and he showed me his dyno numbers at dot-to-dot and after degreeing, picked up 32rwtq. That is huge and will put me right were this package should have been.
I just want to make sure I KNOW I have all that I can get out of this set-up before I get a stroker.
Another member of LS1tech runs the same set-up as mine and he showed me his dyno numbers at dot-to-dot and after degreeing, picked up 32rwtq. That is huge and will put me right were this package should have been.
I just want to make sure I KNOW I have all that I can get out of this set-up before I get a stroker.
Thanks again for your help!!
J.R. Thomas
That would probably be me. Degreeing made a huge difference in my total torque and power under the curve. Your not the first one I've read about being disappointed in their final numbers installing dot to dot, myself included. Listen to any of the cam guru's and they'll all tell you degreeing is a must. Dot to dot is a crap shoot! I went from this, to this . I hated spending the extra money to get it done, but now I know it's doing what it's supposed to and I like it a helluva lot better. You will to.
I am running a 228/232 588/592 110+1 custom grind comp cam with XER Lobes. The gentleman who suggested this cam said I should set it up at 109 intake centerline, which I didn't do. My torque numbers were lower than expected.
Another member of LS1tech runs the same set-up as mine and he showed me his dyno numbers at dot-to-dot and after degreeing, picked up 32rwtq. That is huge and will put me right were this package should have been.
I just want to make sure I KNOW I have all that I can get out of this set-up before I get a stroker.
Thanks again for your help!!
J.R. Thomas
What timing set are you running? I am planning to use an LS2 setup, but it's non adjustable...I will degree my cam though and deal with it if it isn't dead on....just my opinion.
Most H&C packages I see here are not degreed including mine. If my cam doesn't peak where it's supposed to then I will go back and do it but I see very few people who get misground cams, so I took the chance. I do think it's a good idea if you know what you're doing. I wonder what % of H&C packages are degreed at our supporting tuners?
If you want to correctly install your cam then degree it.
Correct install eliminates error - have you looked at the slop in timing chains??
Valve timing is Not Ignition Timing. You change ignition timing in the PCM.
Valve timing can be advanced or retarded by advancing or retarding the cam (valve events are ground into the cam - unchangable).
I have to agree with Bink. I degreed my cam. It was ground on a 112lsa with a 110 icl. When I aligned it dot to dot it was on a 109 ICL in one direction and 111 ICL in the other. Timing chain slop. I installed a Cloyes Hex-Adjust and set it up for a 112 ICL. My torque curve is almost flat from 1500 rpms to peak hp. I had to back it off 3 degrees to get 0 degrees advanced on a +2 cam. As Bink said, why go through all the expense and labor when upgrading to a h/c with all the new parts and leave the absolute timing of the cam up to the cumulative errors of the valve train.
I was under the impression that you could only adjust in 2* increments, is this true? Again, I agree it's a good idea but not necessary unless your cam is not performing as it should. I would like to know how many of our high hp H&C guys from A&A, Cartek and LG are degreed in or dot to dot? When I bought my F-13 from Futral Racing(not a sponsor here) but well known and respected in the LS1 community I asked:
How I should install it?
Line it up dot to dot, was the response.
What about the timing chain?
How many miles on it?
About 20k
I wouldn't worry about the chain.
If you have the tools, the ability and a few extra bucks, by all means degree it in. If not, in all liklehood you'll be fine with dot to dot. That's my take on it but I am by no means a mechanic.
I read the How-To Degree a cam from GMHP and damn............it looks like it would be pretty confusing for someone that has never done this before. Here is the link for anyone who is interested. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showpo...2&postcount=10
Tearing down everything has become so easy it doesn't make since to pay a shop $1000 to tear it down and degree the cam. I just need someone to help me for 1hour. Will pay well for your services.