Hotchkis sway bar install
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,090
Likes: 8
From: Indianapolis Indiana
Hotchkis sway bar install
Just received my C5 Hotchkis sway bar kit. I plan to install it and Bilstein sport shocks on my '01 convertible. Any advice or tips before I get started? I saw somewhere a suggestion to buy Z06 links instead of using the adjustable links in the kit. Any thoughts in support of this or otherwise? If you've been through this mod any help is graciously appreciated. Thanks!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 889
Likes: 0
From: DFW tx
It has been a while since I did mine. I had to file out the suspension mounts as the Hotchkis bolts would not fit through -- think it was on the front. I would assume they have this problem fixed by now since I have not heard of anyone else mention this. Hotchkis also suggested to me that I clean their end links with brake cleaner and lube with synthetic grease before install. They may have changed their design since, so this may not be required anymore.
Lube the rubber bushings with some synthetic grease, make sure you torque everything properly. When you torque the end links, torque them very slow, and multiple times. If you torque them to spec once, they will make a lot of noise. You will notice when you torque them the next time, you will get significant travel of the wrench.
I have had the Hotchkis end links on since day 1 and had a lot of noise at first. Sounded like the car was falling apart. After applying the proper torque to the end links, I have not had a peep since. Greasing the bushings will keep any squeaks away.
Lube the rubber bushings with some synthetic grease, make sure you torque everything properly. When you torque the end links, torque them very slow, and multiple times. If you torque them to spec once, they will make a lot of noise. You will notice when you torque them the next time, you will get significant travel of the wrench.
I have had the Hotchkis end links on since day 1 and had a lot of noise at first. Sounded like the car was falling apart. After applying the proper torque to the end links, I have not had a peep since. Greasing the bushings will keep any squeaks away.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
Likes: 21
From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
First I would install shocks and take the car out for a little ride for the suspension to settle.
Step two, drive up the front end on ramps, do not jack the car up. Remove the sway bars and end links. Put on new front sway and bushings.
Use the adjustable end links that came with kit. End links shoul fit into each side of the lower control arm without any effort (unloaded).
Same idea for the back.
If you jack up you car will not be able to get the right settings for end links.
The bushings need no grease, just the end links. Snug down all hardare to the proper spec.
Step two, drive up the front end on ramps, do not jack the car up. Remove the sway bars and end links. Put on new front sway and bushings.
Use the adjustable end links that came with kit. End links shoul fit into each side of the lower control arm without any effort (unloaded).
Same idea for the back.
If you jack up you car will not be able to get the right settings for end links.
The bushings need no grease, just the end links. Snug down all hardare to the proper spec.
Former Vendor
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 718
Likes: 1
From: Riviera Beach FL
Use the hotchkis links and keep them tight and lubed as Jeff recomends if they are the old style rod ends. I thought that they came out with a new set up that is more like a ball joint. That would solve the the only problem with this set up.
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,590
Likes: 1
From: Littleton Colorado
I used the GM metal end links on the front, mainly because of noise. I don't think there is an advantage to using them. The hotchkis ones are adjustable, and if you know what your doing it could come in handy. I would say give the hotchkis a try.
Use Mobil One grease. I tried using a lesser grease, slick 50, and it would last maybe two months before it started squeaking.
Get a Torix, T40 I think, socket. It is not fun trying to remove the stock endlinks when they are the old style. I found it easier to use a torix on a socket rather than a screw driver type. And, make sure your torque wrench has a high enough setting for the install.
Good luck
Use Mobil One grease. I tried using a lesser grease, slick 50, and it would last maybe two months before it started squeaking.
Get a Torix, T40 I think, socket. It is not fun trying to remove the stock endlinks when they are the old style. I found it easier to use a torix on a socket rather than a screw driver type. And, make sure your torque wrench has a high enough setting for the install.
Good luck
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,675
Likes: 58
From: Hayward (Bay Area) CA
Originally Posted by ndirishr1
Thanks for the info. Anyone use Z06 links instead of the Hotchkis links? Did you get better handling?
Take off your old sway bars/endlinks. Lay them on the ground. Next to your old (stock) endlinks lay your Hotchkis endlinks. Adjust them to the same height. Make sure both endlinks are the same (right & left), then install the front endlinks/sway bar. Do the same for the rear. If your rear sway bar has 3 holes in it, it represents: (Mild for widest holes) (More tighter handling for narrow holes). Personally I used the narrow (inside) holes and I get good handling, not at all stiff. My 2 cents...
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,090
Likes: 8
From: Indianapolis Indiana
Thanks for the replies guys. I ordered Bilstein sport shocks yesterday at Mid America's Funfest. As soon as they arrive I'll do the install on both the shocks and the sway bars. I tried to order Z06 end links at 3 different Chevy dealers and they only had access to the standard link. Finally one of them told me if I had the VIN number of a Z06 they could get the right part number. I guess all I have to do now is buy a Z06?
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,090
Likes: 8
From: Indianapolis Indiana
Thank you all for your responses. I have the shocks ($270 delivered from Mid-America), the sway bar kit (a door prize from a car show) and now all I need is a set of the new metal end links.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,762
Likes: 2
From: Murphy TX
As someone said above, the key with the adjustables is that they should easily slide in and out of the bar with the car at driving weight, which means if you are setting up for track with one driver, put 180lbs (or whatever you weigh in the driver's seat and set the link length). This provides for no load when driving straight down the road, which is what you want. Downside of adjustability is it takes more work to get it right. You can do what someone suggested, use the Z06 links, or set the adjustables to the same length, but you won't be taking full advantage if you do.
