Ok i just checked with the dlr and they want $140 to do the coolant on my 2k C5.

That is nuts... the coolant only costs like $10 or so and some water..

Is this something I can do my self?

The last C5 I had I remember my mechanic using some sort of vacuum thing to suck it all out. I am guessing there is no pepcock to drain the radiator on these cars.


also they wanted $90 for brake fluid. Can I do this as well?

I am mechanicaly inclined.

 

There is a drain valve on the radiator. It's on the passenger side of the radiator, facing towards the rear of the car. Turn it SLIGHTLY counter-clockwise (1/4 turn max), and then pull it out.

 

Not sure why you would use a vacuum system unless it was to draw all the coolant out, including the block.
If you just drain the radiator, there will still be a significant amount of coolant in the block unless you drain the block separately, or flush the system with clean water.

 

I just did mine

Buy 1 gallon of Dexcool for $10.
1 gallon distilled water $1
Mix together.

Open cap on reservoir under hood after car cools down

Open draincock and out comes 8 qts of the 12 in the system.

Close drain

Pour in the above 8 quarts

Done in under an hour for $11.

 

Don't wast your money on that premixed stuff, there is no rocket sience involved, in makeing a 50/50 mix. just use distilled water.

 

I go for another $5.00. I drain the rad as above but I buy 5 gallons more of distilled water. Once the fluid stops comming out of the drain I start the car ( NO the engine will not explode ) and slowly pour in the 5 gallons of water. When I've poured it all in I let the engine run a little while, watching the temp gauge, then shut it off and let the rest of the water drain out.Believe me by the time it finishes draining you could probibly drink the stuff. Close the drain ( DON'T over torgue it ) and put in the new coolant and water.

 

That's basically what I do too. Use the engine to pump out and flush the system. You're comment about the "pepcock" is very a very good reminder too. That thing is plastic and very easy to break if you get ham fisted with it. I like to use the square end of a 1/4" nutdriver and insert the end into the square hole of the petcock. One-quarter turn counter-clockwise and stop. I then usually have to use a pair of small needle-nose pliers to grip it and just pull straight back. It comes right out and allows the flow to go a little faster.
Same thing on re-inserting. Just insert it and push it til it stops then 1/4turn clockwise (while applying light pressure) is as far as it goes. We're talking very low torque on all this, and at first some people may think "Naw, there's no way that thing can seal with that light little twist", but trust me it can and does. Just make sure and not damage or lose the o-ring on the body of the petcock while it's out.
Very easy

 

Doesn't the car have to get up to operating temperature to get the new distilled water through the block? The thermostat has to open before it can flow through out the cooling system.

I think its actually called a petcock.

 

I'm guessing the price you got quoted included a flush also, still way too much I agree but they weren't just charging for coolant and water I'm sure

 

$140 is way too much. I agree with most here, however check how much anti freeze you need. Glycol is not as good a heat transfer medium as water. I see by your profile you are in Florida, you may not need the 50/50 mix. You will need some of the corrosion inhibitors in the antifreeze.

PS, brake fluid change can't cost but 5 to 10 bucks either.

 

I know on most of my others cars that if I park it with the rear end raised the coolant in the block will flow to the petcock. I have not tried this yet on the Z. What I have been doing with the Z is every month I drain all the coolant in the overflow container. I am not sure if it is circulated as in my 95 LT1 or it just stayed there with little movement other than being drawn into the rad as it cools and some coolant going into the tank as the coolant expands when hot?

 

Thanx for the info. I will get the dex cool. Do you think in FL i need a diffrent mix from 50/50?

My truck is running a 50/50 mix no issues.

In summary to be sure I unders this. (I have done this on older cars just not a vette)
So you get 5gal distilled h20.
open the drain. Some how get a pan ounder there to catch everything. (fun )

let the car run while pouring in the 5 gal of distilled h20
once it runs out clear close the drain.
add the 50/50 mix of 1 gal dexcool/ 1gal distilled h20

You add it into the overflow bottle as there is no cap.

does this sound right?

CJ

 

Ok I think I found the drain but it seems more like it would take a screw driver not a rachet?

Can someone send me a diagram of the radiator so I can be sure I am looking at the right thing.

The car is so low.. I am skinny but thats

 

Well that was a no brainer today. Good thing I got the low ramps to get the car up on them.

Dlr $140
Me $20 and 60min later.

Thanx guys I appreciate it. She is running cooler too.

CJ

 

Just monitor your coolant level and your upper radiator hose (when cold) for few days. If you still have too much air in the system you may see some minor collapsing of the upper radiator hose when she cools down. Just crack the cap, add a bit more mix pre-mix.

 

my goodness 140.00 too much? you will wish ya paid it when ya screw the rad or over heat cuz ya got air in it

 

Doesn't the left over water in the block dilute your 50/50 mix? It seems like once you flush the block with water, you have to get all of the water out before you add your 50/50 mix or it will be diluted. Does anyone know if leaving 1 gallon of old coolant in before adding 2 gallons of new coolant does any harm? Having 50/50 here in Iowa is VERY important in the winter.

 

 

Here's what the book says about this...


Drain and Fill Procedure
Important
If the procedure below is not followed a low or high coolant level condition and/or vehicle damage could result.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface.
2. Follow the steps below to remove the radiator surge tank fill cap:
Slowly rotate the cap counterclockwise1/4 turn and then stop. Do not press down..
Allow any residual pressure, indicated by a hissing sound, to be relieved.
After all hissing stops, continue turning counterclockwise to remove the cap.
To tighten the cap, use hand tight pressure only.
3. Open the radiator drain ****.
4. Allow the system to drain completely.
5. Inspect the engine coolant:
Discolored -- follow the flush procedure below.
Normal in appearance -- Continue with the next step.
6. Close the radiator drain ****.

Important
When filling the cooling system use a 50 to 60 percent concentration with DEX-COOL® coolant.

7. Fill the system through the surge tank opening.
8. Fill half the capacity of the system with 100 percent DEX-COOL® coolant.
9. Slowly add clean drinkable water to the system until the level reaches to the base of the neck.
10. Start the engine.
11. Idle engine for 1 minute.
12. Install surge tank cap.
13. Cycle the RPM, idle to 3000 in 30 second intervals until engine coolant reaches 99°C (210°F).
14. Shut off the engine.
15. Refer to step 3 above to remove the surge tank cap.
16. Start the engine.
17. Idle engine for 1 minute and fill surge tank to 1/2 inch above COLD FULL mark on the radiator surge tank.
18. Install the surge tank cap.
19. Cycle the RPM, idle to 3000 in 30 second intervals until engine coolant reaches 99°C (210°F).
20. Shut off the engine.
21. Top off coolant as necessary, 1/2 inch above FULL COLD mark on the radiator surge tank.
22. Rinse away any excess coolant from the engine and the compartment.
23. Inspect the concentration of the coolant.

Flush Procedure

Important
Do not use a chemical flush.

1. Block the drive wheels.
2. Place the transmission in Park or Neutral.
3. Engage the parking brake.
4. Run the engine until the thermostat opens.
5. Stop the engine.
6. Follow the drain and fill procedure using only clean drinkable water repeat if necessary until the fluid is nearly colorless. Refer to the drain and fill procedure.
7. Fill the cooling system. Refer to the drain and fill procedure.


Tim
99 Coupe

 

You flush with 100% water until you are happy that the fluid draining out of the rad is pretty clear.
Then put neat DexCool in the system to a quantity of about 6 litres (off hand I forget but I think the system holds 11.9 litres so 50/50 mix is 6 litres). Top up with water. As detailed in a previous post, start the engine and after a minute top up with water as required, put the cap back on and run to operating temperature. Check level again and repeat process until fluid level is right.