Car won't move - Service Column Lock
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 289
Likes: 0
From: Pasadena Texas
Car won't move - Service Column Lock
Semi-Noob to the site and I'm looking for a lil help.
Car is a 2002 Z06 w/29k miles. Problem just started recently where I get a "Pull Key, Wait 10 Seconds" followed by a "Service Column Lock" message on the DIC. Car starts fine, but when I put in gear (1st or Rev) and try to move, it dies. The lock engages and disengages fine and I called the previous owner and he did have the lock serviced under the TSB. I searched the site for some help and found that some people with the same symptoms fixed it by replacing the battery. I dropped in a new Optima red top and its still happening. I also read about it possibly being a problem with the key, so I tried the spare and same thing. I'd rather not do the bypass as I've heard some talk about it frying harnesses.
Any other ideas? Help is greatly appreciated.
Rob
Car is a 2002 Z06 w/29k miles. Problem just started recently where I get a "Pull Key, Wait 10 Seconds" followed by a "Service Column Lock" message on the DIC. Car starts fine, but when I put in gear (1st or Rev) and try to move, it dies. The lock engages and disengages fine and I called the previous owner and he did have the lock serviced under the TSB. I searched the site for some help and found that some people with the same symptoms fixed it by replacing the battery. I dropped in a new Optima red top and its still happening. I also read about it possibly being a problem with the key, so I tried the spare and same thing. I'd rather not do the bypass as I've heard some talk about it frying harnesses.
Any other ideas? Help is greatly appreciated.
Rob
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,172
Likes: 104
From: Des Moines Iowa
Yep, I had the same thing happen to me after I purchased my '00 A4 Coupe.
I got help from a forum member, first name John, who told me to remove the knee bolster under the steering wheel, and find the K Harness that the GM dealer had installed when performing the recall, and remove the dealer installed K Harness, and hook the steering column actuator wires back together, just as they were before the recall was performed. (The dealer installed K harness is a square relay with two sets of wires coming out of it, that plug into the original wiring under the steering column. The K harness was zip tied to a metal box type piece, just left of the steering column. Not hard to get to once you pull the knee bolster and dash cover.) I did this, and what do you know, the car started and ran fine, with no pull key, wait ten seconds message! Much better than calling to have car towed or flat bedded, since flat bedding can cause damage to front end if not done right.
I then did as John suggested, and ordered a CLB or CLS as they are called from Thunder Racing,for $45 and installed it about a week later, and haven't had a problem since.
I got help from a forum member, first name John, who told me to remove the knee bolster under the steering wheel, and find the K Harness that the GM dealer had installed when performing the recall, and remove the dealer installed K Harness, and hook the steering column actuator wires back together, just as they were before the recall was performed. (The dealer installed K harness is a square relay with two sets of wires coming out of it, that plug into the original wiring under the steering column. The K harness was zip tied to a metal box type piece, just left of the steering column. Not hard to get to once you pull the knee bolster and dash cover.) I did this, and what do you know, the car started and ran fine, with no pull key, wait ten seconds message! Much better than calling to have car towed or flat bedded, since flat bedding can cause damage to front end if not done right.
I then did as John suggested, and ordered a CLB or CLS as they are called from Thunder Racing,for $45 and installed it about a week later, and haven't had a problem since.
