O2 sensor simulators
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 538
Likes: 9
From: Geneva, IL Bring back the Chief!
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10,'13-'14,'19-'20-'21-'22
O2 sensor simulators
I'm getting sick of resetting the check engine light. Car runs fine, but has been throwing codes since header and high flow cat install (covered in several other threads).
I've got a head/cam mod coming up, but I'm not sure I want to tune the rear O2 sensors out.
I'm looking for a decent recommendation for simulators for the rear O2 sensors. I see a number of vendors out there with different solutions and priced all over the map. But have no idea who is decent. Anybody got thought on whats the best solution for the $?
Anybody running something they are satisfied with?
thanks
I've got a head/cam mod coming up, but I'm not sure I want to tune the rear O2 sensors out.
I'm looking for a decent recommendation for simulators for the rear O2 sensors. I see a number of vendors out there with different solutions and priced all over the map. But have no idea who is decent. Anybody got thought on whats the best solution for the $?
Anybody running something they are satisfied with?
thanks
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 16,477
Likes: 26
From: Gone
CI 6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03
Tuning the rear sensor codes out is probably the most elegant and surefire solution.
The 02 sims work fine, but I've not found them to survive very long. I'm on my 3rd set. I don't know if it's the heat that kills them or what, but where they connect to the harness puts them in very close proximity to the header tubes.
If you get them, try getting some sort of heat shield or insulating material to wrap them in...may help them last longer, I dunno, the heat cuplrit is just my theory.
Something else to wonder about...I don't know how many companies actually manufacture the sims, but one of the larger manufacturers decided recently to quit making the sims.
Of course, lots of distributors/tuners currently sell them, but I suspect that manufacturer supplied a lot, if not all of the sims to the market, and if that is the case, these may become a very scarce item, very soon.
The 02 sims work fine, but I've not found them to survive very long. I'm on my 3rd set. I don't know if it's the heat that kills them or what, but where they connect to the harness puts them in very close proximity to the header tubes.
If you get them, try getting some sort of heat shield or insulating material to wrap them in...may help them last longer, I dunno, the heat cuplrit is just my theory.
Something else to wonder about...I don't know how many companies actually manufacture the sims, but one of the larger manufacturers decided recently to quit making the sims.
Of course, lots of distributors/tuners currently sell them, but I suspect that manufacturer supplied a lot, if not all of the sims to the market, and if that is the case, these may become a very scarce item, very soon.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
From: Bellevue Wa
The sims are simply an oscillator that supply a 'close-enough' sine-wave signal to the cars ECU. If you tune the O2's out you sometimes still need to put a resistor in the heater circuit (2.2K and 10 watts I think?) or you'll get the CEL light. I'm not clear on which specific years need the resistor or if tuning the O2's out was just not done correctly.
As for them going bad, I would suspect heat to be the culprit as well. On my 96 Supra-TT I've got the simulator spliced into the ECU and have never had a problem. I built another simulator just like the Supra's and have it on my '97 because my driver's rear sensor has been complaining. So far I only have ~400 miles on the simulator but it's working fine. I just stuffed the 555 timer and resistors/capacitors in a film can and have that tie-wrapped to the bell housing.
The rear circuit (AFAIK) is the same for all ODB2 cars. The schematic is availble on the net and takes about ten dollars worth of Radio Shack parts. Could be if you got mil-spec components they'd last forever. I did see one simulator potted into what looked like a regular water-tight connector that looked really slick. Mine looks totally ghetto.
As for them going bad, I would suspect heat to be the culprit as well. On my 96 Supra-TT I've got the simulator spliced into the ECU and have never had a problem. I built another simulator just like the Supra's and have it on my '97 because my driver's rear sensor has been complaining. So far I only have ~400 miles on the simulator but it's working fine. I just stuffed the 555 timer and resistors/capacitors in a film can and have that tie-wrapped to the bell housing.
The rear circuit (AFAIK) is the same for all ODB2 cars. The schematic is availble on the net and takes about ten dollars worth of Radio Shack parts. Could be if you got mil-spec components they'd last forever. I did see one simulator potted into what looked like a regular water-tight connector that looked really slick. Mine looks totally ghetto.
Night Owl for life
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 24,721
Likes: 4,560
From: Bugs Bunny should'a made a left turn here
Originally Posted by muncie21
Best method is to eliminate them in the tune. You can set the PCM to report no errors and also not light the CEL.
i'll need it before my next emissions test in 08.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,252
Likes: 181
From: NE OH
Originally Posted by jdmvette
have you got the program to tune out a y2k yet???
i'll need it before my next emissions test in 08.
i'll need it before my next emissions test in 08.
Your best bet (financially speaking) is to pickup some sims or take it to Scotty's and have them do it.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: American Canyon Lethal Injection
Originally Posted by Y2Kvert4me
Tuning the rear sensor codes out is probably the most elegant and surefire solution.
The 02 sims work fine, but I've not found them to survive very long. I'm on my 3rd set. I don't know if it's the heat that kills them or what, but where they connect to the harness puts them in very close proximity to the header tubes.
If you get them, try getting some sort of heat shield or insulating material to wrap them in...may help them last longer, I dunno, the heat cuplrit is just my theory.
Something else to wonder about...I don't know how many companies actually manufacture the sims, but one of the larger manufacturers decided recently to quit making the sims.
Of course, lots of distributors/tuners currently sell them, but I suspect that manufacturer supplied a lot, if not all of the sims to the market, and if that is the case, these may become a very scarce item, very soon.
The 02 sims work fine, but I've not found them to survive very long. I'm on my 3rd set. I don't know if it's the heat that kills them or what, but where they connect to the harness puts them in very close proximity to the header tubes.
If you get them, try getting some sort of heat shield or insulating material to wrap them in...may help them last longer, I dunno, the heat cuplrit is just my theory.
Something else to wonder about...I don't know how many companies actually manufacture the sims, but one of the larger manufacturers decided recently to quit making the sims.
Of course, lots of distributors/tuners currently sell them, but I suspect that manufacturer supplied a lot, if not all of the sims to the market, and if that is the case, these may become a very scarce item, very soon.
Have them tuned out (turned off) by the tuner....no more codes for O2 sensors...
