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I recently performed this repair on my late model 2000. When I attempted to remove the motor w/o taking the assembly out the last of the (3) bolts holding the motor in hit the hood hinge preventing its removal. Also, when you remove the Motor/Actuator and separate it from the linkage the headlight unit will drop and lining it back up with the linkage will be difficult. I followed the directions in the GM Service manual and it was not that difficult. It took about 30 minutes each for removal and reinstall the assm. And about 10-20 minutes each for the removal and reinstall of the Motor/Actuator (not counting epoxy set up time).
I suggest the following:
Put the front of the car up on ramps (rhino ramps work w/ a couple of 2 x 4’s placed at the leading edge).
Remove the HDLP Maxi Circuit breaker #54 located under the passenger side foot board.
Disconnect the headlamp wiring harness for the appropriate headlamp.
Raise the headlamp manually.
Remove the headlamp bezel and headlamp cover. (Lower the headlamp assm. slightly to remove the two rear screws from the cover)
This is the ramps come in. Remove the front bumper close out panel on the effected side. This panel is directly under the headlamp. There are five 5/32 screws – easy to do. Don’t worry about the brake duct you can work around it.
Have a helper support the headlamp assm. Remove the two (2) bolts mounting the headlamp bracket to the frame. Then remove the three (3) nuts mounting the headlamp bracket the stud plate. Removing the three mounting nuts was easiest from underneath the car, and the two frame bolts can be done for up top.
Carefully lift the assm out of the vehicle; they have to clear the (3) studs extending from the headlamp stud plate. These studs also maintain headlamp alignment so realignment is not necessary after you reinstall the headlamp unit.
**Motor/Actuator – Take note of the linkage to motor relationship for reassembly.
Remove the nut retaining the headlamp assm pivot arm the headlamp motor.
Remove the three (3) bolts mounting the motor to the assm.
I did not mark the shaft for making sure I put it back correctly. How bad is this and what do I do next? I've already re-glued the housing back together (mine was sealed so I had to glue)
This is the step I didn't understand and failed to do:
BEFORE you remove the drive shaft and plastic gear, make a reference mark on the drive shaft and the housing
Yep, except you will have the aluminum housings (the good ones that unbolt instead of breaking the epoxy loose)
Originally Posted by JetJazz
I did not mark the shaft for making sure I put it back correctly. How bad is this and what do I do next? I've already re-glued the housing back together (mine was sealed so I had to glue)
This is the step I didn't understand and failed to do:
BEFORE you remove the drive shaft and plastic gear, make a reference mark on the drive shaft and the housing
jerry
I don't see why you would have to mark anything. The motor is just a worm gear that will continue to turn until it meets some resistance (i.e. the light is all the way up or down). It might help you when you go to hook up the headlight arm, but all you have to do is either raise and lower the light until it lines up or turn the manual **** until it lines up. You can't get it "out of time".
I pulled it off! And headlights work!!!! I got the gears from Rodney Dickman and followed his very well written instructions. I can't believe how easy it was. If I can do it anyone can do it!
how can i tell if i need the early or late 2000 kit? What is alum. vs. plastic ??
Dave
Raise your headlights and look at the gear cover. The metal cover is smooth but the plastic has ridges. Go to www.rodneydickman.com
He explains how to tell the difference.
I just did my 2000 motor gears last night. No problems. Got the gears from Rodney. I followed his instructions to the letter and it went very smoothly.
My vette is a "late 2000" with sealed plastic gear covers.
thanks, I have a late 2000 .So ill have to crack open my case ??
Dave
Dave,
Per the instructions: you'll use a thin screw driver and hammer it in around the seal and get it started then use another screw driver and wedge it in there and twist it and the cap will pop off. You have to be kind of careful not to break the cap but mine popped of pretty easy. Just be gentle with it.
no gear yet, i have a post on this board hoping to find one for less then 50 bucks.
Dave
The brass gears will definitely last a long time but if you're looking to really save some bucks you can just pull the plastic gear out and turn it to the oposite side because only about one quarter of the gear is actually used to rotate the headlight. The other three quarters of the gear looks brand new!