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i have been having very infrequent problem with my clutch. when i would come to a stop it would disengage. the rpm's would stay at 2000 for a couple of seconds and then drop down. and until yesterday cause it was infrequent i didn't worry about. i was taking a leisurely drive :rolleyes: at the dragstrip, and on my first run i was getting bad wheelspin so i shifted quick in 2nd, started to accelerate and i am still spinning, i look down and the clutch pedal is stuck. i quickly kick hard and it comes unstuck. but unfortunately not before a nice cloud of smoke pours out. i let the car sit for a half hour, then drove it a couple miles and it wasn't slipping but the engage is at the top now. so, i am thinking it is gone. i went to the dealer to today, and they told me there is no adjustment for it! any recommendations? c4/c5 specialist or c5 tech, or anyone else that know a lot. the car only has 13,000 miles and i don't feel like replacing a clutch anytime soon.
Just maybe you're overdoing it at the strip. I once went through a clutch at 10K miles on an '79 Capri and from that moment on I vowed I would never beat on any of my future cars with a manual in it. Chevy clutches are not invincible...be careful. You may be looking at a new clutch and I don't believe that's covered by the warranty. Good luck. :yesnod:
if leaving at 1800 rpms is overdoing it, how come there is car just like mine leaving on drag radials at 3300 without any problems and has the miles on it? i had thought of it, but certainly an 1800 rpm launch shouldn't be as hard of launch.
You don't say what RPMs at the shift but i can lend this information. The OEM clutch is a diaphragm type and goes overcenter when disengaged. At high RPMs, centrifugal force actually holds the clutch disengaged, not allowing it to return. This is a common characteristic of diaphragm clutches, though more pronounced on some than others. I bought a Cartek that's going in shortly with an engine change. I've been told that it will take 6800 RPM shifts without complaints. Many people misinterpret this overcenter condition for a defective / sticking master or slave cylinder. If it happens at high RPMs and not other times, common sense indicates it's not the hydraulics.
thefly, all I'm saying is that everytime you "dump" the clutch and cause wheelspin you are causing more than "normal" wear to your clutch (not to mention losing a few miles on the tires). It's just as bad as those folks who sit at light and "ride" their clutch. Eventually, the clutch says no thanks, wears out and you have to replace it sooner than others. I have no idea what a new clutch and putting one in a C5 would cost, but it's probably not cheap.
thefly, all I'm saying is that everytime you "dump" the clutch and cause wheelspin you are causing more than "normal" wear to your clutch (not to mention losing a few miles on the tires). [snip]
I've always thought that dumping the clutch is not nearly as bad as riding it. I never smell clutch when I dump it and it engages right away. I always smell clutch though if I have to stop at the top of my steep driveway to let someone out and then have to ride it a little to get it into the garage.
thefly, all I'm saying is that everytime you "dump" the clutch and cause wheelspin you are causing more than "normal" wear to your clutch (not to mention losing a few miles on the tires). [snip]
I've always thought that dumping the clutch is not nearly as bad as riding it. I never smell clutch when I dump it and it engages right away. I always smell clutch though if I have to stop at the top of my steep driveway to let someone out and then have to ride it a little to get it into the garage.
Mike
Correct
Babying your clutch just wears it out. Dumping it may save the wear on the clutch at the expense of the driveline. Luckily the run flats are the safety net for that. Smoke em if ya got em... :D
i went to the dealer to today, and they told me there is no adjustment for it! any recommendations? c4/c5 specialist or c5 tech, or anyone else that know a lot. the car only has 13,000 miles and i don't feel like replacing a clutch anytime soon.
thefly,
I recall seeing something in the service manual about an adjustment on the clutch.....c4c5 has discussed it some time ago. I don't know if this will help, but it rang a bell when you said the dealer said there is no adjustment.
Without going to the manual and checking the specifics, I can't add any further info.
MellowYellow - Would the pressure plate have to be changed and/or upgraded to the '02 as well?
JC
GM used to sell the entire set as 1 piece for '01. I'd assume it's the same for '02. If it was me, I'd replace the PP and the Slave cylinder as well. Labor is high on clutch swaps. Best to get it right the first time.
GM used to sell the entire set as 1 piece for '01. I'd assume it's the same for '02. If it was me, I'd replace the PP and the Slave cylinder as well. Labor is high on clutch swaps. Best to get it right the first time.