Help, Clutch Pressure Problems
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 506
Likes: 1
From: Houston TX
Help, Clutch Pressure Problems
Continuing saga; clutch pressure goes away after a ½ mile or so making it impossible to shift, i.e. the clutch isn’t disengaging. I’ve had a lot of suggestions saying there is air in the line. I bleed a quart of fluid through it last weekend, it’s still only good for a ½ mile. Yesterday I was going to pull it into the garage to work on it again. The clutch was back, so I took it for a ride, l made it a ½ mile and again it won’t release. Why would the pressure nominally build up without bleeding; second, what do I need to do to fix it so I can drive more than ½ mile at time?
Mick
Mick
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
Likes: 21
From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
You probably have a bad slave or master cylinder in the clutch drive line.
The heat from the enginge is probably warming up the parts enough for your cleareances to change and the fluid is getting by the seals.
I would first try to replace clutch master since it is external, comes out with a twist after you remove control rod pin and line from reservoir.
If that does not work it is probabbly your slave cylinder and you'll have to drop the drive line to repair it.
The heat from the enginge is probably warming up the parts enough for your cleareances to change and the fluid is getting by the seals.
I would first try to replace clutch master since it is external, comes out with a twist after you remove control rod pin and line from reservoir.
If that does not work it is probabbly your slave cylinder and you'll have to drop the drive line to repair it.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,585
Likes: 786
From: panama city beach florida USA
St. Jude Donor '09
he said 1/2 mile i dont think heat is an issue. when ya bleed it does any air come out ? no leaks ? maybe bypassing ,it can do that without any leaks. master is the easiest to change. good luck
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 17,602
Likes: 20
From: Palm City Florida
Originally Posted by CorvetteMick
No I don't get any air when I bleed it. I sure hope it's the master. I don't want to have to go through the pain of pulling the drivetrain again.
Thanks for the help,
Mick
Thanks for the help,
Mick
Mick, how are you bleeding it? The Mighty Vac method? Or getting underneath the car and using the bleeder on the Slave?
Do you have a Remote Bleeder line?
As I mentioned in an earlier reply.. Does pumping the pedal fast bring it back up? if so... I still believe its air...
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 506
Likes: 1
From: Houston TX
I have a remote bleeder and I'm, bleeding by having my daughter pump the pedal then I open the valve. After the previously mentioned quart of fluid I don't see any air coming out. Pumping it fast doesn't seem to make it come back, but here's the strange part, I gave up and let it sit a couple of days and it's like I have a clutch again, but still doesn't last long.
Is vacuum bleeding better? I've bought a clutch master cylinder, if that doesn't fix it should I try a vacuum bleeder before I tear it apart again? Are there any tricks I'm missing in my bleeding process? I'm still having a hard time believing my master or slave would go out at the same time as my engine replacement. I'm open to any and all suggestions.
Mick
Is vacuum bleeding better? I've bought a clutch master cylinder, if that doesn't fix it should I try a vacuum bleeder before I tear it apart again? Are there any tricks I'm missing in my bleeding process? I'm still having a hard time believing my master or slave would go out at the same time as my engine replacement. I'm open to any and all suggestions.
Mick
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 17,602
Likes: 20
From: Palm City Florida
Originally Posted by CorvetteMick
I have a remote bleeder and I'm, bleeding by having my daughter pump the pedal then I open the valve. After the previously mentioned quart of fluid I don't see any air coming out. Pumping it fast doesn't seem to make it come back, but here's the strange part, I gave up and let it sit a couple of days and it's like I have a clutch again, but still doesn't last long.
Is vacuum bleeding better? I've bought a clutch master cylinder, if that doesn't fix it should I try a vacuum bleeder before I tear it apart again? Are there any tricks I'm missing in my bleeding process? I'm still having a hard time believing my master or slave would go out at the same time as my engine replacement. I'm open to any and all suggestions.
Mick
Is vacuum bleeding better? I've bought a clutch master cylinder, if that doesn't fix it should I try a vacuum bleeder before I tear it apart again? Are there any tricks I'm missing in my bleeding process? I'm still having a hard time believing my master or slave would go out at the same time as my engine replacement. I'm open to any and all suggestions.
Mick
Well honestly bleeding is a pain in the ***... If you don't close the bleeder perfectly as the fluid is coming out you stand the chance of not getting it all..
I just ordered a Speed Bleeder for my remote bleeder.. This way it will truly be a one man operation..
That being said.. I am now leaning towards a bad master cylinder.. try this.. put the car in gear and press the clutch in to the point it just barely grabs... then hold it there...
See if it eventually grabs and does not hold it's position.. That means the fluid is bleeding by the seal in the master.. which could account for the pedal feel..
Also you have not said you show any evidence of fluid leakage...so it makes me think you are getting leak back..
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: Hialeah FL
I am having a similar issue. My car worked fine after a clutch and slave change and now it won't go into gear. I looked below and it looked like something spilled all over the bottom near the oil pan. I bleed the clutch from the top, and it still doesn't engage.
Any ideas of what it could be?
Any ideas of what it could be?
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